Idahone Ceramic V Sharpener

[Robert Ptacek]

Does anyone have any experience with these?They say the coarse rods are 100-200 grit.I didn't think ceramic rods were practical at that grit level?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I haven't used this sharpener. Looking at the mfr's site description and pics of their 4-rod sharpener, those Coarse rods might be handy for quick setting of new bevels, if nothing else. Hopefully very quick, if they're that coarse; that could be a good thing as compared to most sets like these. I'm betting that's what they're intended for on that setup (their own description is quoted below). They look pink(ish) in the pics; might be so-called 'ruby' alumina with which other mfrs are also making rather coarse ceramic hones for coarse-stage grinding tasks. The 'Fine' rods at 1200 - 1500 are more typical of finishing-grade ceramic rods on setups like these.

"...The sharpening angles are pre-fixed at 15 degrees for sharpening on the coarse rods and 22 degrees for finishing on the fine rods..."

Jumping straight from 100 - 200 grit to the 1200 - 1500 looks like a big leap to me, without some intermediate refining step at something like 400 - 600. That'd be my main concern in using one of these, if the edge needs a lot of cleaning up after the coarse stage; the 'Fine' rods might be slow for that, if the edge is left pretty ragged after the coarse stage. Having said that, the reviews on the 'big river' site for the 4-rod sharpener seem to be pretty good; I didn't see any gripes mentioned about the Coarse rods being too much so. Maybe the wide grit jump isn't such a big deal anyway. I DID see one reviewer's suggestion to add a pair of medium-coarse rods to the setup, if one is looking for more refinement. But as it is, this set might be fine for general-use cutlery like simple stainless kitchen knives, utility knives, etc.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

They look pink(ish) in the pics; might be so-called 'ruby' alumina with which other mfrs are also making rather coarse ceramic hones for coarse-stage grinding tasks.

Indeed, those look to be ruby grit. It's important to note that the fuchsia color of ruby grit is different from pink aluminum oxide, which is more of a cotton candy pink. While both derive their coloration from the addition of chromium oxide during its time in the electric arc furnace, ruby grit has had considerably more of it added. Pink and ruby grits have similar hardness to white aluminum oxide, but are tougher.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Indeed, those look to be ruby grit. It's important to note that the fuchsia color of ruby grit is different from pink aluminum oxide, which is more of a cotton candy pink. While both derive their coloration from the addition of chromium oxide during its time in the electric arc furnace, ruby grit has had considerably more of it added. Pink and ruby grits have similar hardness to white aluminum oxide, but are tougher.

Better color descriptor there^. I was trying to think of something between pink and purple for the 'ruby' grit, and drew a blank in coming up with a name for it.

 

[Robert Ptacek]

I would think an intermediate grit would be optimal but I suppose if you snuck up on the edge before completely apexing it would be better.I know I've experimented coming off a coarse benchstone and it takes forever to refine.Thank you for the input.Anyone out there have personal experience with the Idahone?