Idea for a bushcraft machete/saw/batoning blade

N

newageroman

Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
5
Mods, feel free to move to another section if you feel I'd get better responses somewhere else.

What kind of steel would be good for a thick machete that could also be used for batoning firewood as well.

Ok, I saw the newer version of the camillus X machete http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camillus-Carnivore-X-Machete/37226078?action=product_interest&action_type=title&placement_id=irs-2-m1&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id=PsdG2PiMl-CqZNPIfXOzk8&category=&client_guid=f0022291-80ad-479d-8f3f-55b5f97e2322&customer_id_enc=&config_id=2&item_id&parent_item_id=20932505&parent_anchor_item_id=20932505&guid=10c70cde-76c0-44a9-ab08-fa72642820e8&bucket_id=irsbucket000&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n - the one with the full tang and great looking sawback and I am close to getting one of these - but I have to a couple questions relating to this design.

The blade looks sturdy enough to use for batoning firewood, but the sawback does't look good for that. So then I thought to myself - I can just file down the last 1/3 of sawblade to get by that. Then I thought it looks a little heavy for a machete, maybe drill some holes in the end to help lighten it up. That way you would have a very hardy machete, a decent saw, and a blade that can baton firewood all in one.

I have a fiend that does laser cutting, and can do these kind of modifications, but I'm nor sure what kind of steel he has access to - he does mostly industrial electric motor core laminates.

What kind of steel would be good for this kind of all purpose knife and where can I get some good machete blanks (if he cant get it)?
Thanks,
Brandon
 
newageroman said:
The blade looks sturdy enough to use for batoning firewood, but the sawback does't look good for that. So then I thought to myself - I can just file down the last 1/3 of sawblade to get by that. Then I thought it looks a little heavy for a machete, maybe drill some holes in the end to help lighten it up. That way you would have a very hardy machete, a decent saw, and a blade that can baton firewood all in one.
Click to expand...

The hole drilling thing is a bad idea. Regardless of where your drill the holes you are making the blade weaker. That will make it less "hardy."

Drilling holes near the end opposite the handle will lighten that end...making it a worse chopper.

And are you getting a custom or are you just altering that WallyWorld Camillus machete?
 
newageroman said:
Mods, feel free to move to another section if you feel I'd get better responses somewhere else.

What kind of steel would be good for a thick machete that could also be used for batoning firewood as well.

Ok, I saw the newer version of the camillus X machete http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camillus-Carnivore-X-Machete/37226078?action=product_interest&action_type=title&placement_id=irs-2-m1&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id=PsdG2PiMl-CqZNPIfXOzk8&category=&client_guid=f0022291-80ad-479d-8f3f-55b5f97e2322&customer_id_enc=&config_id=2&item_id&parent_item_id=20932505&parent_anchor_item_id=20932505&guid=10c70cde-76c0-44a9-ab08-fa72642820e8&bucket_id=irsbucket000&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n - the one with the full tang and great looking sawback and I am close to getting one of these - but I have to a couple questions relating to this design.

The blade looks sturdy enough to use for batoning firewood, but the sawback does't look good for that. So then I thought to myself - I can just file down the last 1/3 of sawblade to get by that. Then I thought it looks a little heavy for a machete, maybe drill some holes in the end to help lighten it up. That way you would have a very hardy machete, a decent saw, and a blade that can baton firewood all in one.

I have a fiend that does laser cutting, and can do these kind of modifications, but I'm nor sure what kind of steel he has access to - he does mostly industrial electric motor core laminates.

What kind of steel would be good for this kind of all purpose knife and where can I get some good machete blanks (if he cant get it)?
Thanks,
Brandon
Click to expand...

Brandon, welcome to the forum. I would definitely recommend that you do some more research on that Carnivore bread kni...er, "machete". It says it's full tang, but actually there are multiple reports of the tang breaking off inside of the handle. They're a pretty weak design, and I wouldn't trust it.

I would heartily recommend you finding another well made machete that might serve your needs. Understandably, they will cost more than that Chinesilus crapstick, because quality always costs.

Good luck!
 
Steel that would be good...1095, 5160, L6, S7 and others depending on the HT.

That said, have you thought about buying a machete? Imacasa makes some good ones. Cheaper than the one you posted too.
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I have seen bad reports of the old carnivore machete breaking, but that is the old style, Haven't heard anything about the new style. The new style seems to be a full tang design, and you can see the steel at the end of the handle. That being said, if it is a real skinny full tang design like the old ones, I'm gonna skip on it.

I'm still on the fence about modifying it or just getting some stock and having him cut it to spec.

As far as drilling holes to lighten it up, I think I'll skip on that for now. Looks like it is shorter than a normal machete that I used as a kid. I was thinking it would be longer but it is much thicker, so not sure about how it will work as a traditional machete.
 
The Ontario 18" machete I have in 1095 has performed fantastically for batoning firewood on more than one occasion. It has amazing lateral flexing-but-not-breaking abilities, and it's thick enough to have some heft to it. In lieu of an ax it's a pretty good firewood preparer.

But for splitting wood a hatchet/small ax would probably do a lot better with less fatigue, after batoning with the Ontario my palms were bruised and my arms ached badly, something that the hatchet/small ax would solve. Also, you're not saving a lot of weight with the machete due to the thickness, an ax has the same weight with much better splitting abilities.
 
Another shout-out for Ontario, but I'd like to recommend the Ontario SP8 in 1095 carbon steel. it's a much, much thicker and sturdier tool and it preps wood like a champ. The saw is somewhat useless but you can use it to create sawdust for tinder fairly easily. Plus, if you have a dremel tool you can cut a line down the saw back to improve its performance.
SP8%20LG.JPG
 
I saw that sp8 it Looks sturdy but lacks the length im looking for. I did go ahead and buy a carnivorex today looked it over and took it back this afternoon. The saw back was very sharp and the sheath was very good quality. But it really didn't have the length and more importantly the handle is horrible. Very slick plastic and even with the finger grooves I could see major slippage. one other thing I didn't like was the way they did the full tang. Its technically a full tang I guess but obviously a marketing ploy. The but end end of the handle is steel but the top of the handle goes deep enough to see what should be tang metal but it's plastic. This makes me think that the tang inside the handle is really thin instead of following the contour of the handle. The should have skipped the little crap thow away knife that comes with it and used that metal on a real full tang. Also baton in with this is out because of the saw teeth and Wire cutter.

So im back to an ontario or getting a blank and having my guy cut it to spec. Thanks for the advise and will keep you posted...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top