Idea for Kershaw Needs Work

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Mar 2, 2009
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So I have a potentially really stupid idea for a Kershaw Needs work (or a Centofante for that matter). So I was lookin at that blade shape and I thought 'what if I have it reground, either to a really acute bevel or true convex, and polish that sucker up...could I use it as a razor?' Now, I've always wanted a straight razor but a nice one (Dovo, etc...) is one pretty penny. I figure that the sandvik steels (or 440A on the Centofante) are essentially razor blade steels anyway and the blade shape would be about right with a regrind...what do you guys think? I know it may be dumb, but just indulge the thought.
 
There was a guy who sent is Atlantic Salt to Tom Krein for a razor thin edge. It worked out pretty well.

You could probably do it yourself with a set of DMT stones, just take it flat to the stone.
 
There was a guy who sent is Atlantic Salt to Tom Krein for a razor thin edge. It worked out pretty well.

You could probably do it yourself with a set of DMT stones, just take it flat to the stone.

HAHAHA...no. Actually, my next feat is learning how to sharpen a knife (well), but I'll save that for another thread. If I did this, I'd definitely send it out. I've seen in previous posts though the concern regarding rust spots on the sandvik steel...would the polishing take care of that? Also, what would be the best to maintain as a razor: 13c26, 14c28n or 440A?
 
HAHAHA...no. Actually, my next feat is learning how to sharpen a knife (well), but I'll save that for another thread. If I did this, I'd definitely send it out. I've seen in previous posts though the concern regarding rust spots on the sandvik steel...would the polishing take care of that? Also, what would be the best to maintain as a razor: 13c26, 14c28n or 440A?

My limited experience with Sandvik steel doesn't put me in a position to say which is better. With razors the finer the edge, the smoother it cuts. I wouldn't say 440A though.
 
So I have a potentially really stupid idea for a Kershaw Needs work (or a Centofante for that matter). So I was lookin at that blade shape and I thought 'what if I have it reground, either to a really acute bevel or true convex, and polish that sucker up...could I use it as a razor?' Now, I've always wanted a straight razor but a nice one (Dovo, etc...) is one pretty penny. I figure that the sandvik steels (or 440A on the Centofante) are essentially razor blade steels anyway and the blade shape would be about right with a regrind...what do you guys think? I know it may be dumb, but just indulge the thought.

It's obvious you've never had a Krein Blade. If it turns out that the
Needs Work doesn't work well on your face, you'll have one hell of
a slicer. Send it to Tom........you can thank me later. ;) :D
 
I re-profiled my leek till it was crazy sharp. Then I tested the edge in wet wood, retention was pretty good and the thrusting capability was unbelievable I mean truly wicked.
Admittedly when carving hard wood IT SUCKS, but that's not what I use it for any way.
If the steel is the same I say go for it. My blade takes to stropping really well and does a umber on tomatoes, apples and salamis
 
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