Idle problems with '97 Ford Explorer

Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
1,601
Hey fellas, this issue has been plaguing me for over a year now and I desperately need help.

Here is my situation!

In brief: for over a year I was having problems starting my explorer (4.0L SOHC) from cold. Revving the engine for a few minutes or simply unplugging the MAF sensor for a few miles fixed the issue. We attempted to fix the issue by changing the Intake Manifold Gasket and Intake itself and it's worse.

If you're still interested in helping, I'll go in more detail below (fair warning, I know nothing about cars. My mechanic just suggested I try asking someone online)

Ok, here we go!

The rough idle issue has been around for a while. My dad initially thought it was the MAF sensor and tried several at the junkyard; none worked. For around a year I just warmed her up in the driveway. I wasn't a big fan of unplugging the MAF as the brakes felt funny and that scared me. Anyways, this summer I worked with a new employee who, after a long day, heard the explorer start up from cold. He had the same exact explorer and it had the same problems. He suggested a quick fix could be the MAF being dirty, and we proceeded to clean it. That didn't work. He then told me it's the Intake Manifold Gasket. I decided enough was enough, and before school I was going to have my mechanic fix it. He put in the gasket and it was worse. He said he found two cracks in the lower intake manifold so he put in a new one, and guess what? No improvement.

Now warming up amounts to nothing. The kicker according to my mechanic is when you unplug the MAF sensor it doesn't miss at all but idles very high (close to 3,000). You can try to run it, but it stalled on him randomly. With the MAF plugged in, forget about it. I would have troubles backing out of the driveway without stalling.

So, the obvious problem(for him at least) would be the MAF sensor itself just needs to be swapped with a new/refurbished one. It's very possible that the ones my father got from the junkyard were just that--junk. We have two in possession now and he isn't sure which one is the original. From my research I know that the numbers have to match up EXACTLY. I'm going to check on that tomorrow.

In the meantime, what is everyone thinking? Again, he wanted to emphasize the high rpm when MAF sensor is unplugged. The fact it runs smooth I guess rules out any vacuum leaks or problems with the fuel injectors.

I've read countless threads online and did research for hours and hours and hours but would love to know what you guys think.

Thanks for any input!
 
Buying components for the engine from a salvage yard can be an exercise in frustration.There is no way to know if the junkyard dog had issues leading to the salvage yard or what condition it is in.
 
I had a '99 Explorer, and had extensive probs with idle speed, dying at red lights, etc. I can't recall the specifics, but replacing the mass airflow sensor and idle air control valve (2 or 3 times) fixed things. I feel your pain. I drive a Suburban now, btw. :)
 
I had a '99 Explorer, and had extensive probs with idle speed, dying at red lights, etc. I can't recall the specifics, but replacing the mass airflow sensor and idle air control valve (2 or 3 times) fixed things. I feel your pain. I drive a Suburban now, btw. :)

Yeaaahhhhhh my mechanic insists I never get another ford.

We've replaced the MAF a few times and it never worked. I'm hoping the IAC will work..
 
I finally got the beast back in my possession. It still isn't running very well, though.

Here is my best way of describing what's going on:

-Running it without the MAF sensor plugged in gets you no where. As soon as you lay off the gas you're dead in the water.

-Running with the MAF sensor unplugged is doable, but scary. When you start it with it unplugged it immediately revs to 3,000. When you put it in gear it either drops immediately, or if you're quick enough, give it gas while you're foot is on the break and it will stay around 2,000 and drive pretty decent (but still reving high) until you have to park it again..in which case you have to repeat the process.

It still isn't running as well as before the intake manifold gasket and intake itself were replaced. The mechanic is still waiting to get his hands on the IAC but is currently looking into other possible solutions. Just recently he's thinking its some fuel regulator.

Again, thanks for any help. I appreciate more than you could ever imagine.
 
Go to your local parts store (Auto Zone, NAPA, ect) and get a remanufactured MAF!!!!!! It will take you less then 15 minutes to replace yourself.

Take one of the ones you have as a core. Don't worry about matching it up exactly, it doesn't matter.

I have two of the 4.0 Explorers, and I have changed the MAF's on both for the exact problem you describe.

Once you have that replaced, clear the trouble codes.

Speaking of trouble codes, why isn't your 'mechanic' using a scan tool to read codes? Why is he throwing parts at your rig without knowing exactly what is going on?
 
Stop throwing parts at it and have the codes pulled.

Sounds more like a dirty or malfunctioning IAC or bad TPS.

There are procedures for testing both these parts with a multimeter so learn how to do that before you just start replacing shit.

Find yourself a new mechanic as yours is terrible.

Explorerforum.com is a great reference.
 
Thanks for the replies, fellas.

Go to your local parts store (Auto Zone, NAPA, ect) and get a remanufactured MAF!!!!!! It will take you less then 15 minutes to replace yourself.

Take one of the ones you have as a core. Don't worry about matching it up exactly, it doesn't matter.

I have two of the 4.0 Explorers, and I have changed the MAF's on both for the exact problem you describe.

Once you have that replaced, clear the trouble codes.

Speaking of trouble codes, why isn't your 'mechanic' using a scan tool to read codes? Why is he throwing parts at your rig without knowing exactly what is going on?

My dad put three in and them my mechanic just put one in himself that he tested with a multimeter and confirmed it's good, but it still isn't running right.

In regards to codes: This could be me being ignorant, but if there is no check engine light on can you run for codes? I know that it hasn't come on. Regardless, I'm sure he's tested for codes. I promise you he's a good mechanic.

Stop throwing parts at it and have the codes pulled.

Sounds more like a dirty or malfunctioning IAC or bad TPS.

There are procedures for testing both these parts with a multimeter so learn how to do that before you just start replacing shit.

Find yourself a new mechanic as yours is terrible.

Explorerforum.com is a great reference.

I posted almost the exact same thread in that forum ;). However, it got little attention. It WAS of great use during my 'research'. There are certainly many people having the exact same problems. Unfortunately, it seems people stop posting once they figure it out so that no one really knows what fixed it.

We're also trying to find an IAC at a decent price, as i'm a college student and he knows money matters.

Thanks again for the replies
 
The IAC can be cleaned....try that before you just replace it.

Nobody can just point and say that is the problem based on an internet description. You have to diagnose the problem.


Just because there is no CEL does not mean there are no codes so start there first.

Use explorerforum to find the procedures to test parts before replacement.
 
The IAC can be cleaned....try that before you just replace it.

He did. He mentioned it didn't look dirty (when doing research I ran across a few people who had them almost clogged), but after the MAF sensor didn't fix it that was the next step.
 
Pull the codes before you go any further. You may not have the MIL (check engine light) lit because it is burned out.

Also, that MAF is very sensitive. If you tried to clean it with any carb or brake cleaner, it is junk. Been there, done that!

Codes first!!!!!
 
The high idle is likely TPS related. The reason the truck runs better with with the MAF unplugged is that the computer defaults to a fixed fuel map whenever it does not get a reading from the MAF.

You can test it with a multimeter as it should be within a certain voltage range at idle.
 
Pull the codes before you go any further. You may not have the MIL (check engine light) lit because it is burned out.

Also, that MAF is very sensitive. If you tried to clean it with any carb or brake cleaner, it is junk. Been there, done that!

Oh cool. Thanks! I'll make sure he at least tried to pull codes.

Codes first!!!!!

The high idle is likely TPS related. The reason the truck runs better with with the MAF unplugged is that the computer defaults to a fixed fuel map whenever it does not get a reading from the MAF.

You can test it with a multimeter as it should be within a certain voltage range at idle.

Test the TPS or MAF with a multimeter? He's tested the new MAF and it's in the right range (although i'm not sure if he measured it at idle). Either way, thanks! I let him know to think about the TPS.
 
Scan for codes. Diag any codes before proceeding. Get a quality scan tool and check the short and long term adaptives. Anything higher than positive 10 and you likely have an air leak behind the maf. Check for cracks in the intake boot. Make absolutely sure the intake repair was done correctly and that the intake is "seated".


All you describe points to a likely air leak.


Edit: you can idle the engine and spray brake cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines. Listen for changes in engine speed. If you blow yourself up don't blame me.



First post, ha!
 
Could be anything really, vaccum leak, cracked hoses. But my gut immediately went with a bad TPS and not MAF. I have a scanner that I picked up that reads Toyotas. I have never owned another brand of car but anyhoo, it's come in handy for basic diagnostic. Would never not have one on hand that said Autozone will pull the codes for you for free.

You could also try to clean the MAF first, there is a very specific solvent for it. http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?pa...source=05110&gclid=CJbc4Z3OsLkCFU6Z4AodRCoAKQ
 
Scan for codes. Diag any codes before proceeding. Get a quality scan tool and check the short and long term adaptives. Anything higher than positive 10 and you likely have an air leak behind the maf. Check for cracks in the intake boot. Make absolutely sure the intake repair was done correctly and that the intake is "seated".


All you describe points to a likely air leak.


Edit: you can idle the engine and spray brake cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines. Listen for changes in engine speed. If you blow yourself up don't blame me.



First post, ha!

Thanks for the info. I'll make sure he's done everything you said!

Could be anything really, vaccum leak, cracked hoses. But my gut immediately went with a bad TPS and not MAF. I have a scanner that I picked up that reads Toyotas. I have never owned another brand of car but anyhoo, it's come in handy for basic diagnostic. Would never not have one on hand that said Autozone will pull the codes for you for free.

You could also try to clean the MAF first, there is a very specific solvent for it. http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?pa...source=05110&gclid=CJbc4Z3OsLkCFU6Z4AodRCoAKQ

I know he has a code reader, but since i'm driving it (and he no longer has it) I think i'll just stop at an Autozone on the way home and have them check it just to be sure.
 
Personally, I searched a forum dedicated to my vehicle and solved many problems I ran into.
Chances are, especially if it is a popular vehicle, that the problem(s) have been documented before.
You can also find great information about preventing common problems on those types of forums.

Good luck. :)
 
Personally, I searched a forum dedicated to my vehicle and solved many problems I ran into.
Chances are, especially if it is a popular vehicle, that the problem(s) have been documented before.
You can also find great information about preventing common problems on those types of forums.

Good luck. :)

Thanks! I did try that. I even joined explorerforum first. It received little attention which my prompted my posting here.
 
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