Idler Wheels vs. Contact Wheels?

M

Moses_3

Joined
Feb 27, 2008
Messages
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As you guys were really helpful with my other Q, I thought I would pop another one out there. Is there any negative effect of running 70 durometer contact wheels in place of your platen's idler wheels? The Reeder chassis I am planning on buying, comes with a platen and the idler wheels are sold separately. That got me thinking about the Ameribrade combo platen that runs a 6" contact wheel in place of one of the 2" idler wheels. If I have to buy the wheels anyways, why not pop a 2" and a 4" 70 durometer wheel on my platen, thereby making it more versatile. You can see what it would look like here. I just want to make sure that I am not putting together a Jack of All Trades, Master of None... thoughts?
The only downsides I can think of are that the rubber wheels would wear out faster and hold more heat.
Thanks!
 
It's probably better.
I want to do it too, except I'm probably going to do 2" ,_and maybe 5 or 6"
 
I agree that the only down side would be the wear issue and I doubt that’s a very big deal.
 
It is a good idea, especially if you use the wheels for 1" radius curves like finger groves and such.
Some folks make a flat platen with a 5" wheel on the bottom and a 2" wheel on the top. This is very versatile if you do a variety of grinding techniques.
You rotate the platen back to use the bottom 5" wheel or rotate it forward to use the 2" wheel. Move it to straight up and the flat platen is ready for action.
 
Thank you all! Nice to know it is a worthwhile modification.
I think a 2" and a 6" would be my preference, but Greg at Reeder wasn't sure if the 6" would clear the platen.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Thanks you for all of your info on the Reeder grinder over the years, your posts helped me make my final decision in a surprisingly saturated grinder market. 🍻
 
You may have to play with things or make a longer platen C-mounting plate, The simplest way is to make a shorter flat platen and mount the larger wheel on the bottom. You may have to make a new hole for the lower platen slide.
Another method is to extend the bottom arm of the C-frame. Gregs three drilled and tapped holes make this pretty easy.
I'll draw it up tomorrow. I have 50 people coming for a BBQ in four hours.


TIP:
Use Quick-Adjust handles to mount your platen to the frame. This makes moving it in and out or changing platens fast and simple. Much simpler than bolts.
Here is one of Greg's platens showing a radius platen. You can see the handles I am talking about. You can also see some ways to move the platen up a bit towards the top wheel and/or make a shorter platen. that will fit a larger bottom wheel.
https://reederproducts.com/shop/ols/products/48-diameter-24-radius-hardened-a2-tool-steel-platen
 
I have the AmeriBrade Combo platen with 2" and 6" rubber wheels and love it! I have a small wheel attachment for a 1.25" and 1/2" rubber small wheel, but use the Combo Platen for pretty much everything. It's great for handle shaping, too since most of my handles use the 2" or 6" wheel diameters for the curves, contours and stuff. I usually don't even rotate the platen anymore to bring one of the wheels forward. I can do most of what I need to with the platen in the normal vertical position.
 
I forget who makes it, I think it's blue, and has a designers name attached to it. Might begin with a G?
But I like the deep "D" design platen plates that give you more access on the left side .

They have a small wheel, large wheel combo, but it's kinda pricy.
Id like to buy or make it someday
 
I have the Reeder grinder, with a 4" contact wheel at the top of platen, and a 2" at the bottom. I asked about the arrangement when talking to Greg, I was going to put the 4" on the bottom and he suggested the other way around. I don't think I needed a special platen...I just ordered grinder with those wheels. Been happy I did. The two wheels are certainly useful and it is more convenient in most cases to have them up at the same time as the platen, rather than having to swap tool arms.

I did do a platen modification, putting a 1/4" x 1.75"wide length of mild steel between the aluminum arms and the platen. This allows one to drill and tap the platen, and put screws into it from the back, if you want to fit a glass platen face.

The 4" wheel is useful for handle shaping too. Haven't noticed any problems with heat or wear on the wheels.

I will caution though, I don't think it could work with a bigger wheel than 4" because you have to angle the platen and I don't think there is enough clearance in the platen mounting arm slots to accommodate much more tilt.
 
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Yeah rubber contact wheels last much much longer than aluminum... I've been running the same ones on my grinder for 8 years and they are going strong (swapped bearings multiple times though lol). And that's 8 years of full time work...
 
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