If you could improve a Clip Point Hunter/Skinner?

[Shaman]

Hi there.
I find I prefer clip point for skinning and processing turkey/deer/etc.

I've tried Drop Point and Tanto the last few animals, but seem to go back to the Buck Woodsman/Pathfinder style knives.

Taking the template of those knives, (not as large as the 119), if you were to have a custom knife done in the style of the Buck/Camillus style hunter/skinners, what changes/modifications would you make?

As an example, I also prefer full tang (eg. Buck 802)

So Full Tang would be something I would probably be looking for. Though not necessarily how it necks into the handle.

Thoughts on custom characteristics?
links/pics to examples encouraged.

 

[AfterTFD]

There has got to be some way of integrating a can opener somewhere on the knife. A special subhilt could probably be made that would work as a bottle opener.

 

[richard j]

i can make you a fixed blade with a bottle opener on it as for the can opener, a p38 will fit on a keychain for that purpose.

 

[Shaman]

i can make you a fixed blade with a bottle opener on it as for the can opener, a p38 will fit on a keychain for that purpose.

hehe.
Ok, add Lanyard to allow attachment of a P38. Got it.

More?

 

[richard j]

the knife i just made is going to have a swivel for the lanyard to attach to when i'm done. maybe i can make a bottle opener that will have a holder for the p38 to attach to

 

[AfterTFD]

I've seen some bowie knives with a hard striking point on their pommel for breaking stuff (windows, bones, etc). Something like that would probably be easy to make/add, although I personally wouldn't have any use for it.

 

[richard j]

i thought about that, maybe a small carbide point for breaking glass in an emergency but why put something like that on a hunting knife.

 

[Shaman]

i thought about that, maybe a small carbide point for breaking glass in an emergency but why put something like that on a hunting knife.

Driving through the dark and winding up in a big puddle?
Fighting off bears and having a glass breaker/bone break might be helpful.

Easy addition without being a drawback I think.
Lanyard hole with glass/bone breaker.
this is what my Gerber Yari had (did not need full on tactical - sold)

 

[AfterTFD]

I don't know much about dressing game. Is it ever necessary to break anything on the animal? If not then there isn't really much of a reason. The main reason that came to mind is I briefly entertained the idea of a can opening pommel.

Another idea is the exact opposite- a fairly flat pommel. This could possibly be used to pound tent stakes or drive nails depending on how heavy the knife was.

 

[Shaman]

I don't know much about dressing game.

Another idea is the exact opposite- a fairly flat pommel. This could possibly be used to pound tent stakes or drive nails depending on how heavy the knife was.

You do need to potentially break ribs/skulls, depending on what you are doing.

Hunter/Skinner is generally not a heavy use item and for 'me', I would not be using it in that manner. Nice idea, but perhaps not on my list.

 

[Soilarch]

Not really sure it would be an improvement...but something to about:

I don't like guthooks on blades...but I can't deny their handi-ness. So lets make a standard
"pathfinder" with a guthook that folds into the back of the handle. Put in on the bottom side with the guthook pointing inside the handle when folded up.

Could add the bottle opener on the end of the guthook while we're at it and keep the traditional lines of the handle. (Might be a trick to get the geometry of a guthook/opener to fit inside a handle like the pathfinders.)

 

[Shaman]

Just to be clear with folks.
I am not asking about customizing a BUCK.

I am just referencing the Buck 102/105s as an example of the style.
That way people wont be making suggestions more suitable to a 10" Tactical Machete or a 2" Drop Point.

Keep the suggestions coming.

Blade Material?
Blade Width?
Blade Length?
Handle Material?
Serration?
Spine sharpening at the tip?
Thumb Grooves?

 

[Shaman]

So lets make a standard "pathfinder" with a guthook that folds into the back of the handle.

OHHH interesting.
VERY interesting concept though to slide down a gut hook and then draw the handle/hook along the deer.

How would you hold the gut hook up in the handle while not in use?

 

[Soilarch]

I'm talking about a knife with a fixed blade...and a folding blade (the guthook). Like many of the tradition Case pocket knives fold blades from both ends of the handle. One end has a fixed blade...they other has a folding blade (the guthook). I don't think you'd need a lockback or frame lock for the way a guthook is used. A plain slipjoint would be enough. And I don't for the guthook to take the entire length of the handle's underside. 1/2 at most. Hey, while we're at it take a look at the Case Russlock if you're not familiar with it. We could use the 'lever' as a dual purpose opener and carbide/breaker if you work out the relationship between the carbide tip and the pivot/fulcrum so that id doesn't open unless hit completely wrong. Even then you've got the guthook on the non-showing side so you're not slicing your palm open.

 

[AfterTFD]

Blade Material: That's a hard subject (punny! ). Since the primary use is going to be on animals a stainless steel might be a good choice. I don't know enough about stainless steels to make a specific recommendation.

Blade dimensions are basically up to you. Because you aren't intending this for heavy camp use there isn't much point to it being too big. Between four and five inches is probably good.

Handle Material: Whatever feels comfortable to you that isn't going to get slick easily or crap out in cold weather. The folks over at the shop talk forum could give you a better answer to this specific question than I can.

Serration: I personally like my knives to either be entirely plain or entirely serrated. If we're going with the idea of folding stuff in the handle putting a fully serrated blade (or even that elusive can opener) beside the gut hook wouldn't be too hard.

Spine sharpening at the tip: If you have a use for this go for it. I personally prefer a flat spine, but I don't ever process deer or turkeys. The danger of this in some states is that it's kinda likely to convince law enforcement that your knife is a dirk/dagger or bowie knife. In Maine knives used for hunting are exempt from the usual concealed dangerous weapon restriction, but there's no harm in being safe.

 

[raythebigfoot]

Not really sure it would be an improvement...but something to about:

I don't like guthooks on blades...but I can't deny their handi-ness. So lets make a standard
"pathfinder" with a guthook that folds into the back of the handle. Put in on the bottom side with the guthook pointing inside the handle when folded up.

Could add the bottle opener on the end of the guthook while we're at it and keep the traditional lines of the handle. (Might be a trick to get the geometry of a guthook/opener to fit inside a handle like the pathfinders.)

What about doing the handle survival knife style with a guthook blade that screws into the handle?

 

[AfterTFD]

I can't picture that in my head. Do you know of an example?

 

[tirod3]

Field dressing a deer really involves two knives - which I'm not suggesting, - one to do the initial cut opening the animal's belly, the rest is evisceration. The drop point blade was specifically designed to do the opening cut by running the edge under the skin holding it upside down. Gut hooks accomplish the same thing. The rest of the cuts are better done with a trailing or clip blade with a lot of belly - probably why you prefer the Buck style, as that is where all the work is.

I've dressed out a deer with a small 5 1/2" Kabar, it worked pretty well. I don't think larger would have helped any, and much smaller than 4 inches is too short for me. A four to five inch clip in 440C, AUS8 or such would give good edge life without too much expense. Flat ground is best. If the back was sharpened as a pelvic bone chopper that would be convenient, Puma offers that option on it's White Hunter, IIRC. A smooth handle in a hard synthetic, no finger grooves, as the knife is constantly reversed up and down to make cuts, and shouldn't have any pronounced bumps to compromise grip. Texturing the grip will help as long as it doesn't hold much waste. Some prefer grip screws to disassemble the handle for cleaning. You will find dozens like that described on the market, it's been 100 years since the first specific knife for hunting was made and sold. Prior to that, plain wood grip butcher knives were used, and are great, but not much for sheath carry.

The sheath shouldn't be ignored - pouch style is still the best all around for woods use, and an extra keeper strap won't hurt. I got a reputation for handing back my buddies hunting knives to them before they even knew it was gone, and the sheath was to blame every time, along with carrying it on a separate belt over the jacket. It's just too exposed for brush and long term sitting.

Hunting knives are fun to design, the requirements are all about the goal, and not a synthetic tactical operation that never really exists.

 

[richard j]

when i used to hunt the only knife i carried was an uncle henry model 885uh. thats all i used to dress the buck i shot. i wasnt a fan of carrying a really big knife for hunting. i would use a large knife though cleaning rabbits for cutting off the feet and head. i made a guthook skinner for a customer in columbus to use when butchering hogs, cows and deer. i messed up the first one i made so i have another one almost like it posted at my website. i was just thinking of what ray said about a guthook that screwed to the handle. this wouldnt be hard to do at all and the knife i'm working on now would be a good one to try it with since it has a threaded tang

 

[Shaman]

Field dressing a deer really involves two knives..... The drop point blade was specifically designed to do the opening cut by running the edge under the skin holding it upside down.

Yes. But having enough experience skinning small game for my dad when he trapped let's me use the clip point for the reverse hold without catching the clip point internally and simultaneously slicing the innards.

I've dressed out a deer with a small 5 1/2" Kabar, it worked pretty well. I don't think larger would have helped any, and much smaller than 4 inches is too short for me.

Because I have the 4", I'm thinking a 5" (or so) for this blade.

Flat ground is best. If the back was sharpened as a pelvic bone chopper that would be convenient, Puma offers that option on it's White Hunter, IIRC.

Thanks for the pointer. I did a GIS and checked it out.
Not really what I was envisioning, as that blade is pretty hefty.
I usually have ax or saw/prunersaw for pelvic and skull cap.

A smooth handle in a hard synthetic, no finger grooves, as the knife is constantly reversed up and down to make cuts,

Ahh.. I do not have any with finger grooves and was thinking about it.
But I see what you are saying about reverse and angled holds being compromised. Point taken.

Some prefer grip screws to disassemble the handle for cleaning.

Another GOOD pointer not considered.

The sheath shouldn't be ignored - pouch style is still the best all around for woods use, and an extra keeper strap won't hurt..... along with carrying it on a separate belt over the jacket. It's just too exposed for brush and long term sitting.

I have been carrying my BM210 (much smaller) under my clothes on horizontal clip. I just sent out my new 802SS for a custom kydex and teck lock and will test that out as well when it comes back in the horizontal carry. That is a 4" blade, so we'll see.

Hunting knives are fun to design, the requirements are all about the goal, and not a synthetic tactical operation that never really exists.

Too true.

Another example of Production Style.
Used a set very much like this as a kid/teen to skin Dad's trapping (muskrat, beaver, fisher, etc.)
Getting away from round handle though.