If you were buying a gas forge....

D

deker

Joined
Nov 14, 2005
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Where would you get it? I've been thinking about a gas forge, and seeing as I just found a GREAT deal on a propane tank (almost new 100lb tank, FULL for $80), I'm taking it as a sign.

Yes, I know that I can easily build a gas forge, and I'm not ruling that out completely, and I've done a lot of research on it.

If I wanted to BUY one though, what would folks recommend? I plan to use it mostly for damascus work, so ability of the inside to hold up to lots of Borax is important to me. I also think that I would prefer to have a blown forge since they seem to get hotter and be more efficient.

Thanks for any suggestions!

-d
 
My first forge was a NC Tool Lo-Boy. I like the forge but I wouldn't recommend it for your purposes.

One reason is that the damascus work will damage the lining, which you'll eventually need to replace. With these forges, the reliner kits sold by NC Tool are very expensive and the process can be kind of a pain (just because of the way the thing is designed and put together). Also, the heat isn't distributed terribly well in the forge chamber.

I recently built myself a horzontal tube forge with a forced air burner. I bought the burner kit from Darren Ellis and the blower from Kayne & Sons. The setup works extremely well. The forced air burner can get VERY hot and it's really easy to control the forge atmosphere as well. Also, the cylindrical chamber helps the heat circulate more evenly. Lastly, it will be easy to re-line if and when you need to.

Darren builds and sells forges, so I would highly recommend you give him a call. If nothing else, he'll be able to make some excellent recommendations.
 
You may want to check out www.centaurforge.com they carry a wide selection of forges, both atmospheric and blower. If you are going to do a lot of welding, I recommend that the bottom of the forge be solid material, not covered kaowool, and get a removable shelf or tray to catch most of the flux.

I would probably recommend Mankel for blower forges, they are built solid and made to last. I have worked a 2" square billet in their three burner Knifemaker's forge. if you have odd shapes, the open end knifemakers is nice. For atmospheric, I like the Forgemaster Blacksmith, then the NC Whisper low boy, and the Swan forge, with the other NC forges after that.

Many smiths do make their own forges, often because they want a size, shape, or control that just isn't found on the market.

Good luck
 
I bought a two burner gas forge in February from:
http://www.diamondbackironworks.com/GOOGLE9e64d9483d5b3dca.html.

I have been very satisfied with it and it had a very reasonable price. I did modify it by rounding out the interior with Kaowool and Satanite. He had it in stock and I got it within a week. I have nothing but praise for the design, the deal and the service. There is, or will be a Knifemaker model (round) available, that was not ready at that time. Mine will get to welding heat in 5 minutes or less, depending on the size and type of material in the chamber.

That being said, I probably would have bought from Darrin Ellis if he had any in stock at the time, to support a fellow forumite, but my life is ruled by instant gratification, so I bought it where I found it.

My next one will be home built and I will buy my burner assemblies from Darrin.
 
I purchased a gas forge from Ken Mankel in the late 70's, it served me well. I just purchased another from him for my new shop, again it is one well designed forge. I could not ask for more and Ken is always ready willing and able to answer questions.
 
Hmmm lessee... If I were going to buy a forge for knifemaking, I would probably buy one from Darren Ellis. Who wouldnt! They are great.
 
jhiggins said:
Hmmm lessee... If I were going to buy a forge for knifemaking, I would probably buy one from Darren Ellis. Who wouldnt! They are great.
Click to expand...

I've got a mail into Darren already...waiting to hear back if he has forges in stock again...his website hasn't been updated in a bit as far as forges go.

-d
 
My first forge was a Mankel two-burner blown model. I still use the burner assembly on my frankenforge.
http://www.caswellstudios.com/SwordPages/BodyPages/tools/forge.html
I'm not a big fan of KAO wool. It's too easy to bump the sides while working and that eventually wrecks the forge not to mention that the fibers go into the air and YOU BREATHE THEM! (This stuff is a 'probable human carcinogen')
The other problem with ceramic fiber is that it provides no thermal mass to speak of. This means you have to keep burning lots of fuel to maintain heat. I have found it extremely beneficial to be able to turn the 'ol blast furnace' way back and still get welding heat for those delicate pattern welding operations. The gentler atmosphere is very important --- really! The only way you get adequate thermal mass is with firebrick and/or cast refractory that gets well soaked with heat, stores and radiates it back to your part. Then you can turn back the fire. This is easier on your flux, improves even heating of parts-especially the smaller cross sections, and gives you far more flexability because your work isn't truning to scale so rapidly while at working temperature.

Of course if you're just stacking and twisting, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
 
Go with Darren i have bought a forge and various other stuff from him in the past two years and he is great to deal with couldn't ask for more and the forge works great for welding
 
I bought a two burner from Mankel about a year and half ago and it's worked very well for me. I like the fact that it has the cast refractory rather than the more fragile kaowool lined forges. I haven't eaten holes in it yet but then I don't do alot of forge welding yet either. As I understand it, with the castable liner it's just a matter of pouring in a little more castable material to fill in whatever's been eaten away by the flux ovar a period of time.
 
B. Hershberger said:
I bought a two burner from Mankel about a year and half ago and it's worked very well for me. I like the fact that it has the cast refractory rather than the more fragile kaowool lined forges. I haven't eaten holes in it yet but then I don't do alot of forge welding yet either. As I understand it, with the castable liner it's just a matter of pouring in a little more castable material to fill in whatever's been eaten away by the flux ovar a period of time.
Click to expand...

This brings me to another question. Anybody have/used a zowada forge? They seem a little pricey, but the all cast refractory construction of the forge liner seems to make sense to me.

-d
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the positive feedback on our forges and burners! :) I appreciate that.

I haven't updated the website yet, but we are currently taking a limited number of orders on forges at the moment. I shipped the last batch out on Friday and am going to start to lay out the next batch on Monday or Tuesday, so if anyone is interested in getting one, shoot me an email.

I have a new pipe cutting machine in the shop, custom built by Damascus maker and machine fabricator Matt Walker (http://www.matthewdwalker.com/ ). When I get some free time, I'll have to post pics of this thing! Matt did a great job on it, and having this piece of equipment eliminates the problems I've had in the past with local job shops.

:)

-Darren
 
deker said:
Anybody have/used a zowada forge? They seem a little pricey, but the all cast refractory construction of the forge liner seems to make sense to me.
Click to expand...

I've never used or seen a Zowada forge, but I did speak with him some years ago about forge construction. He was the one that turned me onto the benefits of all-cast/brick refractory, and I'm thankful for it. He's supposed to have an nice burner set up available, but I know nothing about it.

If I was building a forge now, I'd probably just buy the burners, etc. from Darren and build the rest with brick/cast material and be done with it.

Please understand, you can do some deicate work with a good CF forge. I did a copy of the Sutton Hoo sword (ala Scott Lankton) in '95 with a stock Mankel (of course that has a cast base). It's just easier when the forge is softly whispering and the inside still glowing bright.
 
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