Ilam, Thorpe and Dovedale.

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This was a shortish walk in the area around the river Dove, which here forms the border between Staffordshire and Derbyshire. Not too strenuous, I didn't include the gorge-like parts of Dovedale up to Mill Dale, which I am saving for later!
We start from Ilam Hall, (pronounced eye-lamb) which was built in the 1820's by the Watt-Russell Family. Much of the hall was demolished in the 1920's but now the remains belong to the National Trust and house a Youth Hostel.
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Ilam Hall. This photo is taken from next to Ilam church, which for all the world looks 19th century to match the hall untill I noticed the wall of the tower:
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This masonry looks old!
I resolved to have a closer look at the church on the way back.

The route then takes us through Ilam village, the majority of which consists of model cottages built by the Watts-Russell family.
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19th century cottages

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We cross over the river Manifold (real name) via the New Bridge. There is a much older bridge a little way upstream.

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We then follow the bank of the Manifold and pass this old stile, redundant now as the field gate and fence are gone.

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Looking back along the meadow, the river is behind the trees on the right.

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Foxglove and gorse

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This ditch and bank with the occasional Hawthorn show the line of an old hedgerow.

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This is an old bridge over the Dove, below the confluence with the Manifold.

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The Dove from the bridge.

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Cheadle 11: This lane might be just a track now but it was once important enough to have milestones!

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Up this way towards Thorpe.

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Struck by lightning?

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The river Dove and medieval ridge and furrow.

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Looking down the Dove valley.

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Autumn colour in Thorpe Village.

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Norman church tower in Thorpe. The Belfry openings look Saxo-Norman, probably around 1100 or a little earlier.

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Deformed Norman tower arch. It is rare to find this sort of thing not tidied up by the Victorians, if not replaced altogether with a neat and more "ecclesiastical" pointed arch. There are no capitals under the arch imposts, a common feature of Anglo-Saxon arches so probably indicative of a date early in the Norman period. A conclusion further supported by the lack of ornamentation of this arch and the early style of the belfry openings.

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Thorpe Cloud, from Thorpe village.

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The path to Lindale

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Thorpe Cloud.

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The danger signs warn of a rifle range. No red flags today though.

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We pass through this kissing gate

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Down Lindale towards Dovedale.

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The Dovedale stepping stones. Upstream from here Dovedale becomes very narrow and gorge-like but our route lies downstream and then across the fields back to Ilam. The stones act like a wier or dam and the water is about a foot higher on the upstream side, where it is up to 3 feet deep in places. The water is flowing quite fast too and with the uneven rocky bottom, the slightest slip on the stepping stones will result in a thorough soaking!

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This is a popular picnic spot and there are rich pickings for ducks and crows.

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Looks like someone fell in the river!

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Fishing in Dovedale.

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We come across half a dozen rams penned in a small field. The surrounding fields hold hundreds of ewes and the rams are exhibiting rather strange behaviour.

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Fungus on an old stump

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Back to Ilam and the seemingly Victorian church. I can scarcely believe my eyes when on the south side of the church I find an Anglo-Saxon stone cross. Probably of between the 8th and 10th centuries and seemingly carved from gritstone. A few yards away is bigger one and in the south wall of the church is this:
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A blocked Anglo-Saxon doorway, later cut into by a 15th century window. The lowest stone in the blocking looks like an Anglo-Saxon window head. There are other re-used worked stones of aparently Anglo-Saxon date in the walls of the chapel housing the 13th century tomb of St. Bertram.
St. Bertram, according to legend, was a king of Mercia in the late 7th or 8th century who became a hermit, eventually living and dying at Ilam. He is not mentioned in the traditional king list of Mercia but at that time some of the various regions of Mercia were governed by sub-reguli or under kings. The church was probably first built to house his tomb.
There are various items of interest within the church but the most spectacular is this:
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An extremely early font. Certainly Anglo-Saxon and possibly a very early example.

Hope you enjoy!
 
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Your rambles are a history book!

Only "Thorpe Cloud, from Thorpe village." showed overhead wires, the rest is practically a time machine.
 
Your rambles are a history book!

Only "Thorpe Cloud, from Thorpe village." showed overhead wires, the rest is practically a time machine.
There is one in "Autumn colour in Thorpe Village." too, which I could probably have avoided by moving a few feet! Why do people need land lines anyway? OK, the mobile reception around there is practically non-existent, not a bad thing on a ramble :)
 
WOW, Great pics. thanks for taking the time to post them all.

I love the pics with the old castle looking type buildings. The river with the rocks placed in there for walking over and on is so cool.
There are so many places in the world I would love to see in person. At least there are people out there like you posting pics:thumbup:

Bryan
 
excellent photos and narration!
Thank you very much for sharing your country hike and some
of its history with us.
 
Great to follow along on your trips, thanks for sharing. I especially loved the picture of the fisherman with the high green hillside behind him.
 
Great to follow along on your trips, thanks for sharing. I especially loved the picture of the fisherman with the high green hillside behind him.
That hillside is actually Thorpe Cloud from yet another angle, :)
The time warp effect is in large part due to this area being just inside the Peak District National Park.
 
Absolutely astonishing tour. I couldn't get over the Norman-era tombstone, let alone the rest. Just incredible.
 
Very nice to see the old country.lol The history of the place,architecture,and scenery is interesting.Folks been around there for a lot of years
Thanks for posting
Dan'l
 
Absolutely astonishing tour. I couldn't get over the Norman-era tombstone, let alone the rest. Just incredible.
Yes, it is sobering to think that Ilam church was already 500 years old when it was extensively rebuilt in the 1200's! There is not very much in the way of buildings surviving from before the Norman conquest. Age, war and changing fashion have taken their toll.
 
I always love the photos from your wanderings Andrew. The fields are beautiful and I can easily get lost for an hour checking out the old structures. Thanks for sharing your trips!
 
Another great post buddy.

I've had many great hikes in that area, very different countryside to over here.

It's a good job there aren't any speed humps in that field or those rams would be banging their crown jewels eh....man they make me feel inadequate !!!:eek:
 
Another great post buddy.

I've had many great hikes in that area, very different countryside to over here.

It's a good job there aren't any speed humps in that field or those rams would be banging their crown jewels eh....man they make me feel inadequate !!!:eek:
Well, Rams are bred for productivity! :D It's interesting to see how different the rams are from ewes, with pronounced musculature and the wide-legged stance of a terrier.
 
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