I'll NEVER Use Tru-Oil Again.

P

popcornpicker

Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
625
Good for a gun stock but not for a knife. It never dries. I don't like to build a finish, but this is always tacky. I'm stripping it now, not chemically, with steelwool. And then it might still be useless.
 
Might be a bad batch, or old, etc. When I use it, it dries, and is rock solid and gorgeous. Sorry you had a bad experience. Before you cull it 100%, try using some scrap pieces and try again just for kicks. I would have a concern using it on handles, as it is a slick, slick finish.
 
You may have applied too much. Typically you hand rub the wood surface to warm it by friction, apply a thin coal of the linseed oil, and hand rub that to warm and open the pores of the wood. Finally wipe off all the excess oil with a cloth or paper towel, and allow the absorbed oil to dry for several days.
Linseed oil on smooth, non-absorbent, surfaces (like steel) will often pass thru a 'sticky' stage before full polymerization.
 
If you are using it on rosewood or other woods with natural oils in them, it will take a long time to dry (if ever).
 
It's probably the rosewood. The best finish for it seems to be Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. I'm always looking for something different, though. You know how that is.
 
popcornpicker said:
It's probably the rosewood. The best finish for it seems to be Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. I'm always looking for something different, though. You know how that is.
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Don't use anything on rosewood. Just rub it with the palm of your hand (hard). It will bring out the natural oils and develop a nice sheen.
 
What's the problem with Gun Stock Wax? I use it on the whole knife and so far so good. Without some type of treatment, it gets water spots.
 
Giving a handle a Tru-oil treatment is a long and labor intensive process. Worth it unless you have better things to do.
 
popcornpicker said:
What's the problem with Gun Stock Wax? I use it on the whole knife and so far so good. Without some type of treatment, it gets water spots.
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Rosewood has pores. Most any wax you use will, after time, turn white (or lighter) where it remains in the pores. Do as you like though.
 
If the wax gets old and ratty looking, you can always remove it with lighter fluid and a paper towel, let dry, and re-wax.
 
I've been using neutral shoe polish (paste wax) on wood for 35 years. It hasn't turned white, yet.
Bill
 
Bill, have you found shoe polish wax to be better than paste floor wax?
DD
 
I don't know about what Bill,has found.
However floor wax,the basic being good ole Johnson's Floor Wax,will deff Yellow over time...Actually the Yellow comes from buildup,more so than time...
It will turn Yellow,especially easily noticed on light colors..
It does however take a great shine when applied and buffed....
It's easy enough to remove with Ammonia.
Would it clog pores in Rose Wood ? You betcha.
In fact it'll clog pores on anything you apply it to..
 
hamx-15 said:
I don't know about what Bill,has found.
However floor wax,the basic being good ole Johnson's Floor Wax,will deff Yellow over time...Actually the Yellow comes from buildup,more so than time...
It will turn Yellow,especially easily noticed on light colors..
It does however take a great shine when applied and buffed....
It's easy enough to remove with Ammonia.
Would it clog pores in Rose Wood ? You betcha.
In fact it'll clog pores on anything you apply it to..
Click to expand...

Zippo lighter fluid will remove the old wax easily.
Better that pores be filled with carnuba than sweat and grime. :)
 
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