I'm just going to put this right here

H

hdmc1974

Joined
Jun 1, 2015
Messages
77
Morning friends, I made this for a friend of mine. It is W2 with some kind of stabilized wood that he sent me. The design is inspired by Turley's with my stank on it. I would like to know what you fine folks think of it. Thank you and GOD bless.
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Looks like a folder that is permanently locked open in a cant of about 15 degrees...the eccentric plunge helps perpetuate the look.

Was this your intention?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
You have your plunge line angled forward quite a bit and you also have the blade angling down and/or the butt of your handle dropped down quite a bit giving the look that the knife is quite 'kinked' where the front of the handle scales approach the plunge line.

A few straight on pics of the side profile of the knife are helpful when asking for critique so that viewers can get a truer sense of the blade/handle ratio and other proportions and lines/flow.

Also, it looks like you have a hardening line (hamon) on this blade? It appears very close to the edge and even looks like it drops off the edge at the last little section towards the heel of the blade/choil area.

The wood looks pretty nice and your grinds appear to be pretty decent.
 
My buddy wanted the blade dropped down like that. So that's what I did. But if something is wrong with my plunge I want to know so I will not do it again. I still don't understand. Please put it in layman's terms. If the spine were straight would the plunge still be wrong?

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I appreciate your input and respect your opinions. That's why I posted it. Just caught me off guard. I haven't gotten any really bad reviews before. I take what I learn here and put it to practice. Other than the design and the hamon dropped lower then I wanted. (Why did it do that?)

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Ok, I see what you mean about the plunge line. Should should have been square with the handle and not the blade.

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It's not really a 'right' or 'wrong' thing. It's just an aesthetics thing and that is highly subjective.

All I meant is that the plunge line is angled forward, meaning it's not perpendicular to(or square to) the spine. Instead, the top of the plunge line (meaning the end toward the spine) is tipped forward towards the tip of the knife. Which isn't necessarily wrong. It just is really accentuated by the angle between the handle and blade.

Now, for that sharp angle between handle and blade....personally I don't care for that at all. To my eye, it really disrupts the flow of the knife.

As for the hamon....the majority of it is maybe a *tad* low, but you don't want it a whole lot higher. But the part where it drops off the edge is an issue you'll want to steer clear of in the future.

The ricasso is a pretty big heat sink. It robs the heel/choil of your edge of the heat needed to harden. If you used clay to do your hamon, I would suspect that you used too much clay (and possibly too much heat) and the larger, thicker ricasso robbed the heat from your edge at the heel.
 
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Thank you guys so much. I see now what you mean about the plunge. And it was probably because I viewed the blade and handle separately when I started grinding and not as a whole. I was proud of that plunge line both sides are the same and without a clamp guard on the blade. So how much clay should I use? The clay was nowhere near that low on the blade. I'm going to try it again. I will take everything you told me to heart. Your not waiting your time in replying to me. And I love curves you should check out my other knives. Not many straight lines. Thanks again. And GOD bless.
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J. Doyle said:
It's not really a 'right' or 'wrong' thing. It's just an aesthetics thing and that is highly subjective.

All I meant is that the plunge line is angled forward, meaning it's not perpendicular to(or square to) the spine. Instead, the top of the plunge line (meaning the end toward the spine) is tipped forward towards the tip of the knife. Which isn't necessarily wrong. It just is really accentuated by the angle between the handle and blade.

Now, for that sharp angle between handle and blade....personally I don't care for that at all. To my eye, it really disrupts the flow of the knife.

As for the hamon....the majority of it is maybe a *tad* low, but you don't want it a whole lot higher. But the part where it drops off the edge is an issue you'll want to steer clear of in the future.

The ricasso is a pretty big heat sink. It robs the heel/choil of your edge of the heat needed to harden. If you used clay to do your hamon, I would suspect that you used too much clay (and possibly too much heat) and the larger, thicker ricasso robbed the heat from your edge at the heel.
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So should the ricasso be covered by the clay? Should I focus the heat there? How thick should the clay be on the blade and ricasso? I thin it and put it on with a small paint brush. Should the knife be edge up or down in the forge? I'm using a coal forge.

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I'd put a little clay on the ricasso but it won't take much. The clay should be no thicker than 1/16". I would go knife edge up in the forge.
 
J. Doyle said:
I'd put a little clay on the ricasso but it won't take much. The clay should be no thicker than 1/16". I would go knife edge up in the forge.
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Thank you. I have seen some people interrupt the quench. Like going in and out of the oil rapidly. What are your thoughts on this?

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There are so many variables to some of your questions that there really aren't straightforward answers. I'd encourage you to try this stuff on your own, in your shop, with your tools and equipment, to see what works for you. The processes you use might change from knife to knife depending on what your primary and secondary goals are for the finished knife.

Things that I tell you are what work for ME, in my shop with my tools. They may not work so well for you or someone else.

I will say that from everything I know about it, an interrupted quench is not going in and out of the oil rapidly. It has a lot more to do with being in the oil long enough to do its job, then pulling it out (interrupting the quench) at a certain point in the transformation of the phase in the steel to achieve certain effects. Steel type and (again) your goals for the finished product are going to play a large part in why you may or may not want to interrupt the quench and when exactly to do it.

I'd encourage you to delve a little deeper into the metallurgy side of heat treating so you know exactly what's going on in your steel through the various stages of heat treating and why you may or may not want to do something. Then think about your expectations for those actions based on the knowledge you learn from studying and see if the end result met your expectations or surprised you with something different.

I'm not trying to be vague or keep some of my processes 'secret'. It's just that some of this stuff you have to figure out and see what works.

In other words....think about why you might want to interrupt the quench and what the outcome might be and try it. Play around with the clay placement on your blades and see if the hamon you get did what you thought it would do or if it did something totally different. Adjust from there.

It's a long journey, never ending as far as I can tell. I don't have all the answers......I'm still learning new things and new methods and adjusting my processes all the time.
 
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