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Im no longer convinced

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ShaiHulud

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Jul 21, 2022
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As hinted by the title, im beginning to feel im not longer convinced that I need a lock on a folding knife
The earlier people in history had tough jobs and most of them carried penny knives, inexpensive, simple friction folding knoves that did the job asked of them while farming, working the docks, fishing etc. Today, most knives have a lock and the lock serves two purposes, safety, and keeps the blade held solidly in place. Slipjoint knives tend to flex, bow, "give" because they're held open by a back spring, which i use to see as a safety issue but now I see the utility value in it, like a boning knife, the flexing allows for greater maneuverability during your daily tasks, and not to mention most Slipjoints and traditional knives have thin thin blades, which make them great daily cutters. Up until now, locking mechanisms on knives serves only to protect my fingers when I was being stupid, smart knife using does away with all locks---
in my opinion.
Just sharing thoughts, anyone else?
 
Archeologists have found folding knives, granted, probably friction folders, that are 2000 years old. Even after springs entered the picture that vast majority of users never lost a finger. There is a certian responsibility with tools. There is a learning curve, however steep or shallow. Most if not all tools when being used involve a certain amount of injury risk. To minimize that risk people used to use fixed blade knives.

Don't get me wrong I've used locking folders and I appreciate them. But people have used slipjoint knives for nearly 150 years with at most, probably, one injury per user.

"I'm not going to do that, again!"
 
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For me personally I miss being able to carry a locking knife , in the uk , they are banned/illegal. I carried a locking knife when I served in the fire service for 28 years . I could carry one as it was a part of my personal equipment.
I now carry a slipjoint as that is the only leagal thing i can carry!
I much preferred the safety of a locking knife knife , knowing it would not fold back on my fingers. The slipjoint is something I have had to adapt to , I carry one and I use it , but I’m always cautious of the fact the blade doesn’t lock .
 
I don't understand the "If no blade lock on a (folding) knife the blade can close on your fingers while using it!" argument.
First, the normal cutting action forces the blade open not closed.
Therefore, unless the operator is doing something dumber than moronic ... such as attempting to cut or slice with the blade spine ... or stabbing something (ice when defrosting the freezer?) a slipjoint or friction folder, the blade cannot close when using the knife.

Speaking of the back springs, they have one job: Prevent the blade from drooping partly closed between cuts, and prevent the blade from partly opening, when in the pocket.
The back springs do not "lock" the blade open.
Personally, I don't understand why some insist on a overly strong pull of say an "8" or higher, possibly requiring a steel fingernail tool to pen it, calling it a "safety feature" ... Admittedly, a strong pull will prevent a youngling from opening the blade ... However ... wouldn't the safer course of action be keeping the knife out of the youngling's possession?

I've never had the desire to possess a knife I have to fight to open ... especially when my hands are cold and/or wet.
The "light" "3" to "4" pull of a Buck 301, and on most of my Rough Ride/Ryder stockmans is to me "ideal".
If the pull is much over a "5" (VIC 91 mm and larger) to around a "6" (Buck 110/Old Timer 6OT/7OT-ish) ... no matter how much I otherwise like the knife, it does not get pocket time.

I've been carrying slip joints daily for roughly 65 years. I've never "needed" a locking blade ... Even though For a few decades I had a Buck 110 or a Old Timer 7OT on my belt, in addition to the slip joints or friction folder in my pocket, and the Scout/Camp/"Demo" knife or SAK clipped on my belt or a belt loop.

I have no doubt any of the slip joints I have on me would be more than enough for survival in the sticks and boonies, if one or more were all I had with me if/when a unexpected survival situation arose. Shelter, firewood, trap and trigger, a slip joint will do the job, provided you use finesse rather than brute force. 😇👍

Sorry. ☹️ I'll "Shhhhh" now. 😊
 
ShaiHulud said:
As hinted by the title, im beginning to feel im not longer convinced that I need a lock on a folding knife
The earlier people in history had tough jobs and most of them carried penny knives, inexpensive, simple friction folding knoves that did the job asked of them while farming, working the docks, fishing etc. Today, most knives have a lock and the lock serves two purposes, safety, and keeps the blade held solidly in place. Slipjoint knives tend to flex, bow, "give" because they're held open by a back spring, which i use to see as a safety issue but now I see the utility value in it, like a boning knife, the flexing allows for greater maneuverability during your daily tasks, and not to mention most Slipjoints and traditional knives have thin thin blades, which make them great daily cutters. Up until now, locking mechanisms on knives serves only to protect my fingers when I was being stupid, smart knife using does away with all locks---
in my opinion.
Just sharing thoughts, anyone else?
Click to expand...
Slipjoint knives tend to flex, bow, "give" because they're held open by a back spring
Click to expand...
Try using a Buck 301 and you will fully understand how false that is.
Blades "flex" if they are thin stock. Has nothing to do with the spring. Buck uses thick stock for their hollow ground 301 blades and they are quite rigid.
Case knives tend to be thinner stock, and they can flex.
 
afishhunter said:
I don't understand the "If no blade lock on a (folding) knife the blade can close on your fingers while using it!" argument.
First, the normal cutting action forces the blade open not closed.
Therefore, unless the operator is doing something dumber than moronic ... such as attempting to cut or slice with the blade spine ... or stabbing something (ice when defrosting the freezer?) a slipjoint or friction folder, the blade cannot close when using the knife.

Speaking of the back springs, they have one job: Prevent the blade from drooping partly closed between cuts, and prevent the blade from partly opening, when in the pocket.
The back springs do not "lock" the blade open.
Personally, I don't understand why some insist on a overly strong pull of say an "8" or higher, possibly requiring a steel fingernail tool to pen it, calling it a "safety feature" ... Admittedly, a strong pull will prevent a youngling from opening the blade ... However ... wouldn't the safer course of action be keeping the knife out of the youngling's possession?

I've never had the desire to possess a knife I have to fight to open ... especially when my hands are cold and/or wet.
The "light" "3" to "4" pull of a Buck 301, and on most of my Rough Ride/Ryder stockmans is to me "ideal".
If the pull is much over a "5" (VIC 91 mm and larger) to around a "6" (Buck 110/Old Timer 6OT/7OT-ish) ... no matter how much I otherwise like the knife, it does not get pocket time.

I've been carrying slip joints daily for roughly 65 years. I've never "needed" a locking blade ... Even though For a few decades I had a Buck 110 or a Old Timer 7OT on my belt, in addition to the slip joints or friction folder in my pocket, and the Scout/Camp/"Demo" knife or SAK clipped on my belt or a belt loop.

I have no doubt any of the slip joints I have on me would be more than enough for survival in the sticks and boonies, if one or more were all I had with me if/when a unexpected survival situation arose. Shelter, firewood, trap and trigger, a slip joint will do the job, provided you use finesse rather than brute force. 😇👍

Sorry. ☹️ I'll "Shhhhh" now. 😊
Click to expand...
You make many fine points. I think the industry lately has been stuck on "stronger the lock, better, heavy duty abuse ready" ideology for knife designs, what you usually end up getting are pocket shovels and pocket axes at that point
 
knarfeng said:
Try using a Buck 301 and you will fully understand how false that is.
Blades "flex" if they are thin stock. Has nothing to do with the spring. Buck uses thick stock for their hollow ground 301 blades and they are quite rigid.
Case knives tend to be thinner stock, and they can flex.
Click to expand...
You're right, I had a few of bucks newer cadets and stockmans made in the polymer/grenadilla/ebony scales and they are pretty thick and ridgid
 
I feel that if you know how to use a knife properly, you don't need a lock. I have used slipjoints since I was about 8. That's 50 years. And I never had a knife close on me during use. But my dad taught me how to properly use a knife.
 
I've been a knife user for over 60 years now. I used to carry a 3¾" lockback with a drop point blade, all the time, for decades. Now I mostly carry slipjoints, and only prefer locks on large (over 4½ closed) modern OHO when outdoors or when I may need a knife for self-protection or work. My smaller lockbacks seldom get carried any more. I've done lots of dumb stuff over the years, but I've never had a slipjoint close on my hand or fingers.
 
Lock? I don’t need no stinkin’ lock…
m1LDOWE.jpeg


afishhunter said:
normal cutting action forces the blade open not closed.
Therefore, unless the operator is doing something dumber than moronic ... such as attempting to cut or slice with the blade spine ... or stabbing something (ice when defrosting the freezer?) a slipjoint or friction folder, the blade cannot close when using the knife.
Click to expand...

I will freely admit to being moronic, but non-locking knife can start to fold closed when the blade gets bound up in the material you are cutting - things like cardboard, carpeting, thin plastic, even wood - and you push or pull the wrong way to get it out. I think anyone who has tried to cut holes in cardboard or plastic with a sawing motion knows what I mean. Sometimes even friction against the material you are cutting, as you draw the knife back towards you to make the next cut, will do it (think shaving off material with repeated push cuts). It’s not really a problem as long as you pay attention to what you’re doing. Knives with or without springs seem to be the same in this regard.

Having said all that, I’m not afraid to put a friction folder to fairly hard use. I use my Pallarès knives all the time for stripping bark off hardwood walking sticks, removing excess material, cutting through hard knots in the wood, carving, etc. You would be surprised at the abuse a thin blade on a plastic handle can take.

Bo4CSgQ.jpeg
 
Just Tom. said:
Lock? I don’t need no stinkin’ lock…
m1LDOWE.jpeg




I will freely admit to being moronic, but non-locking knife can start to fold closed when the blade gets bound up in the material you are cutting - things like cardboard, carpeting, thin plastic, even wood - and you push or pull the wrong way to get it out. I think anyone who has tried to cut holes in cardboard or plastic with a sawing motion knows what I mean. Sometimes even friction against the material you are cutting, as you draw the knife back towards you to make the next cut, will do it (think shaving off material with repeated push cuts). It’s not really a problem as long as you pay attention to what you’re doing. Knives with or without springs seem to be the same in this regard.

Having said all that, I’m not afraid to put a friction folder to fairly hard use. I use my Pallarès knives all the time for stripping bark off hardwood walking sticks, removing excess material, cutting through hard knots in the wood, carving, etc. You would be surprised at the abuse a thin blade on a plastic handle can take.

Bo4CSgQ.jpeg
Click to expand...
Just checked these out online. They seem amazing
 
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