Immediate Rust

Broady

Broady

Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
239
Yet another vinegar question gentlemen... After soaking 3 heads for 6 days, scrubbing with scotchbrite and flipping every afternoon, they looked amazing. However, after removing the heads and rinsing them with warm water, I dried them all off and stuck them in the oven @ 300 F to make sure they were dry. Now I have rust buildup on the polls and in the eyes. I pushed on and rubbed the heads down with BLO, massaging it in with 000 steel wool. How can I avoid the rust, or possibly keep the heavy temper line and brightness of the head like you see while it soaks? Anything would be helpful...
 
Hot water rinse should have been plenty then mineral oil it as soon as the water evaporates off the surface. The time in the oven would not have stopped the surface rust, you needed to get some oil on it first while it was warm from the rinse. Then get it hafted and go use it.
 
I will throw them back into a fresh soak this afternoon. Is there a secret to holding that dark temper line after removing it from the vinegar?
 
Broady said:
I will throw them back into a fresh soak this afternoon. Is there a secret to holding that dark temper line after removing it from the vinegar?
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I don't know any secrets, but just remember that the patina you created with the vinegar is basically just rust. It's controlled rust, and it's only right on the surface. So anything you do to abrade the surface (including using the axe) will wear away the patina. After you pull them from the vinegar and get them dry, they will always look a bit dull. Just like anything else...kinda like how your tires look nice and black and shiny when they are still wet from the car wash. Slap a little oil on, that will help it look better and prevent rust.
 
Should I take the time to rinse them, or just get them dry straight out of the vinegar?
 
Broady said:
Should I take the time to rinse them, or just get them dry straight out of the vinegar?
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Sometimes I rinse them. Other times, I just dry them with a rag and hose them with WD40 and that stops rust just fine. ;)
 
M3mphis said:
Sometimes I rinse them. Other times, I just dry them with a rag and hose them with WD40 and that stops rust just fine. ;)
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I'll give them a day or so to get back to how they were before removing them, and give this a go. Thanks again...
 
hatchetjack said:
I always used Birchwood Casey cold bluing on a rag followed by a light coat of any lightweight oil.
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Jack, would you take a bit of time to explain your process for bluing? I have always thought that it required a form or heat treatment after the "bluing" was applied. Anything you can offer is greatly appreciated.
 
Broady said:
Jack, would you take a bit of time to explain your process for bluing? I have always thought that it required a form or heat treatment after the "bluing" was applied. Anything you can offer is greatly appreciated.
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I use Birchwood Casey as well on those that I blue. The instructions are right on the bottle. It's real easy. No heat necessary. Just cold tap water, fine steel wool, and a rag or sponge to apply it.
 
M3mphis said:
I use Birchwood Casey as well on those that I blue. The instructions are right on the bottle. It's real easy. No heat necessary. Just cold tap water, fine steel wool, and a rag or sponge to apply it.
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That's it. 15 minutes or so and you're done.
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hawk2.jpg
 
Gun shop for sure. Any sporting goods place may have it.

One other thing - make sure the piece is nice and clean before bluing. If there are oils (even from your hands) you'll get uneven results. The bottle says to use Birchwood Casey cleaner, but I just use dish soap and wear nitrile gloves to keep my hand oils off.

Edit: hatchetjack's stores are good recommendations, I just hadn't seen it yet.
 
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I'll try ACE today after work. If they don't carry it, it will def be ordered tonight. Thanks for all of the help fellas.
 
Hey, hatchetjack, have you used the Birchwood plum brown????

If so, do you like it? Did you follow the heating instructions? Any pics of results?

I've had a bottle for a few months, but haven't used it yet. The instructions tell you to heat it up with a torch till water sizzles on it. Makes me worry.

(Broady, if I'm hijacking, just say the word and I'll get this outta here!)
 
M3mphis said:
Hey, hatchetjack, have you used the Birchwood plum brown????

If so, do you like it? Did you follow the heating instructions? Any pics of results?

I've had a bottle for a few months, but haven't used it yet. The instructions tell you to heat it up with a torch till water sizzles on it. Makes me worry.

(Broady, if I'm hijacking, just say the word and I'll get this outta here!)
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M3emphis, I encourage the hijacking. It's the only way for me to learn..
 
M3mphis said:
Hey, hatchetjack, have you used the Birchwood plum brown????

If so, do you like it? Did you follow the heating instructions? Any pics of results?

I've had a bottle for a few months, but haven't used it yet. The instructions tell you to heat it up with a torch till water sizzles on it. Makes me worry.

(Broady, if I'm hijacking, just say the word and I'll get this outta here!)
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Sorry, have not. Sadly, I haven't done any hawk mods for awhile now. In fact, the ones in the pictures have been sold or traded off.
 
Just my 2 cents, After a vinegar soak I rinse and scrub them off with a scotchbrite pad. I dry them and then rinse(spray) them off with brake cleaner and let dry. I them wax with Butchers Bowling alley wax. I rewax after sharpening if i don't do it right away.
 
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