Impression - Sharpening with Rubber Wheels

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Dec 23, 2005
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Since a few months i've been experimenting with a new way of knife sharpening (to me); natural rubber discs filled with loose grit, used on a simple benchgrinder.
The standard grit type used in the discs is aluminium oxide, but silicon carbide is also available and on my request that was used in my discs, or Rubber Wheels as i call them.

Each Wheel is custom made so you can also specify diameter, width, and axle thickness plus you have a choice from 2 different grades of rubber: medium hard type R.O.K. (colored red) or the softer type P.O.L. (colored grey)
The difference lies in the amount of "give" the surface of the Wheel has, which normally translates into narrower or wider edge bevels (although with some practice it is possible do both with each).
Because the larger part of my sharpening jobs are kitchen knives & tactical folders which normally have more narrow edges i first chose the type R.O.K. discs to test.

Also: since my old fast 3000 r.p.m. benchgrinder had been slowly dying from wear, this was a good opportunity to buy a new machine, and this time i opted for the slower 1400/1700 r.p.m. Creusen type DS7500TS, as this would be the perfect partner for the 20 cm Wheels which i wanted to use.
The smaller diameter discs however can handle higher speeds:

Diameter 20 cm: max. 2400 rpm
Diameter 17,5 cm: max. 2800/3000 rpm
Diameter 15,0 cm: max. 3200 rpm

After some chatting with Dick (the man who makes & sells the Rubber Wheels) i opted for 2 Wheels in 20 cm diameter (8 inch) with a width of 2,0 cm (0.8 inch) each, one filled with SiC grit 60 grains & one filled with SiC grit 180 grains.
At first both sounded way too coarse for my uses, but Dick told me not to worry.
The SiC grains are completely embedded in the rubber and come only gradually to the surface during sharpening, and because that surface also has some "give" the sharpening results would be much more smooth and even than expected.
Also the heat build-up is kept within safe limits, provided you do not use too much pressure while sharpening.
The Wheels give the best results if you let them do the work while you only use a light touch, but to be on the safe side i still keep a bucket of cold water nearby.

These are a few pics of the workplace where i do my sharpening.
In the back you can see my Tormek T7 wetgrinder fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone (which i mainly use for serious reprofiling), and to the right is my new Creusen benchgrinder (set up backwards) with the Rubber Wheels (right is grit 60, left is grit 180):



Pictured separately:



Here are some pictures of edges created by the Rubber Wheels, first a Zero Tolerance 302 in CPM-S30V from a Dutch forum member.
(sadly my cheap camera doesn't show too much detail).
The factory edge was reprofiled and sharpened to between 30 & 35 degrees inclusive with just the grit 60 Wheel, after which the burr was removed with 3 micron diamond paste on the leather wheel of the Tormek:



A Zero Tolerance 0200 in 154CM steel from the same forum member, also reprofiled and sharpened to between 30 & 35 degrees inclusive with just the grit 60 Wheel, after which the burr was removed with 3 micron diamond paste on the leather wheel of the Tormek.
If you click 2 x on the second picture you can see the scratch pattern as well as a vague reflection of the camera housing.



A Spyderco Manix 2 in CTS-XHP steel, also from a forum member.
Reprofiled & thinned to about 30 degrees inclusive with just the grit 60 Wheel, after which the burr was removed with 3 micron diamond paste on the leather wheel of the Tormek.
If you click 2 x on the second picture you can see the scratch pattern, which in my opinion comes quite close to the original factory edge (be it a little convex)



This is one of my own knives (also a Spyderco Manix 2 with CTS-XHP steel), reprofiled & sharpened using only the 180 grit Rubber Wheel.
The resulting edge is about 25 degrees inclusive.



Summary:

When you want to sharpen knives on a regular basis you can now do that fast & economically on a simple benchgrinder you probably already own.
Since the Rubber Wheels are custom made they can be ordered to fit practically any existing benchgrinder and from what i've found will probably give you many years of service per Wheel since they wear only very, very slowly.
My former neighbour who is a woodworker has been using the same Rubber Wheel for about 30 years (!), and it still looks like it could do another 30.
The scratch pattern from both 60 and 180 grit Wheels maybe far away from a high polish (for that you would need Wheels with finer grits, which are available too), but the resulting edges are without exception very sharp (easily shaving in both directions and sometimes even hairwhittling), have quite a lot of bite, and according to various forum members & Chefs for whom i sharpen the edges also stay sharp for quite some time in use.
I paid a little under 70,00 Euro for each Wheel (about 92 US Dollars).

Dick's website in the Netherlands could use an update or two imo, but if you call or mail him he will see to it that you get what you need.
Send me a PM for more info.
Now i realize all this is probably less useful for US based forumites, but i think there is something comparable available in the US: google "Cratex Wheels".
 
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thoes sound interesting. a slower speed is a lot better. i have a thread on the cratex or paper wheels. i have been using them for over 20 years. you should see about getting a slotted paper wheel to finish off your edges. that way you can use a coarser grit and still get a shaving sharp edge. i have had guys treetop hairs on knives i did on 80 grit.

will they last a long time? i had a similar wheel years ago but wore it out fairly fast but it was only 3/8" wilde.
 
For me, the big disadvantage of paper wheels is that the grit seemed to wear off very quickly. It sounds like these "rubber" wheels will last a long time and have solved that problem.

Thanks for the interesting post
 
That's really neat kwackster and your sharpening setup looks top notch! Great results too btw.

I'm a big fan of paper wheels thanks to richardj. :thumbup:
 
thoes sound interesting. a slower speed is a lot better. i have a thread on the cratex or paper wheels. i have been using them for over 20 years. you should see about getting a slotted paper wheel to finish off your edges. that way you can use a coarser grit and still get a shaving sharp edge. i have had guys treetop hairs on knives i did on 80 grit.

will they last a long time? i had a similar wheel years ago but wore it out fairly fast but it was only 3/8" wilde.

I have been using the original Paper Wheels for several years now, but since a few months i've converted them to only use diamond compound (15 micron on the sharpening paper wheel & 6 micron on the slotted paper wheel) mainly for sharpening ceramic knives, but also when i want a little more polish on steel edges than the Rubber Wheels provide.
For finishing/burr removal i like to use the leather wheel on the Tormek because it runs much slower than the slotted paper wheel, which i feel gives me more control on what i'm doing.
That slotted paper wheel is still capable of removing metal quite fast, especially with the diamond compound on it's surface.

Over the last few months i have already sharpened many tactical folders, fixed blades, kitchen knives and even big choppers & machetes on both Rubber Wheels, and so far they still look almost unused, just a little discoloration.
I have found that certain kinds of knife steels do have a tendency to clog or smear the surface a little (mostly cheaper & softer kitchen knives, but also Busse's INFI steel), but a squirt of WD-40 and an old rag cleans everything up nicely in seconds.
And as i said: my old woodworker neighbour has been using the same Rubber Wheel for about 30 years, so i hope mine will last a comparable period.
 
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For me, the big disadvantage of paper wheels is that the grit seemed to wear off very quickly. It sounds like these "rubber" wheels will last a long time and have solved that problem.

Thanks for the interesting post

The factory applied grit on my Paper Wheels lasted for quite some time (and i've used them a lot), but at a certain point i also had to regrit them several times.
I tried various different kinds of glue with the grit sprinkled on it, until i settled for a compound of pre-mixed SiC grit & glue applied to the surface.
I used this solution for quite some time as it seemed to hold the grit the longest, but one day out of curiosity i removed all and applied some diamond compound on the wheel, and this worked so well i kept it that way.
15 micron works up a nice burr and 6 micron does a very good job at burr removal and semi-polishing (while leaving a little more bite than previously with the block of white aluminium oxide.
It also does a wonderful job on ceramic knives, like on this small santoku i did a few months ago:




Now imo the Rubber Wheels have a few advantages and disadvantages in comparison to the Paper Wheels:

- They are currently available in gritsizes 40, 60, 180, 320 and 400.
- Since they are custom made they will surely fit your particular machine, no need for spacer tubes.
- There is also no need for regritting since the grit is completely mixed through the rubber, not just applied to the surface.
- No need to apply wax as the rubber seems to have some sort of cooling effect by itself.
- They wont warp or swell in damp conditions
- Since the rubber has more "give" than a Paper Wheel there is less chance of gauging your edge (especially on wider edges & with the softer P.O.L. type rubber)

But:

- The Rubber Wheels also cost more than Paper Wheels
- The Paper Wheels are a complete system, but after sharpening with a Rubber Wheel you still need to deburr/polish the edge with something else: a Tormek leather wheel (which i use), a hand strop, or a separate slotted Paper Wheel (what Richard J suggested)
I'm in contact with the Rubber Wheel maker for creating something to fill that void: maybe an even finer gritted Rubber Wheel, or one with no grit in it for use with diamond compound on it's surface, not sure at this moment.
 
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