In-progress pics: hickory, bone, and 1095

MSCantrell

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Mar 12, 2005
Messages
1,213
Just thought I'd share a couple pictures of a work in progress. Forged 1095 blade, hickory handle with bone bolster (guard?) and buttcap. These pics are from before I glued it up; the epoxy is curing now.
100_0351.jpg

100_0350.jpg


I'll post again when it's finished :thumbup:

Mike
 
That looks like it is comming on nicely. I was cuting up some water buffelow horn yesterday to use as guards.

I see you have a tang all the way through. An old mate of mine would use alternating layers of various colour wood and bone. It works well.

I will look forward to your update.
 
Hey! You've got the blade hidden!:D Should be an interesting combo, show some pics when it's done.
 
Here they are!
Hickoryandbone001.jpg

Hickoryandbone002.jpg

Hickoryandbone003.jpg

Hickoryandbone005.jpg

My knives are getting better each time (I think), but still just not good enough. One day I'd like to sell some, but that day hasn't come yet. The problems with this knife are:
-sloppy glue joint, looks like a spacer
-the brass pin holding the buttcap in place is off-center
-some scratching/marring/bad finish on the blade near the guard (I think I may have even gotten a little spot of pitting just while it was wrapped in the tape and paper towel over night).

What I am pleased with is the primary grind- I forged it from 1/8x1" 1095 barstock, and managed to pull off a nice, even flat grind (that is, the edge is the same thickness all the way to the tip). Also, I radiused the spine all the way down. Don't know what everybody thinks of that, but I think it adds a big comfort factor. And lastly, I like the glossy tung oil finish. I get that by dipping the entire handle in the jar, shaking (not wiping) off the excess, and letting dry. It lays on a nice, thick coat- waterproof in one dose. For being a high-gloss finish, tung oil stay pretty grippy when wet.

So now it needs a sharpening, and I may or may not try to etch my name onto it. Etching is a little intimidating, so we'll see.

Thanks in advance for your comments,
Mike
 
That is beautiful! Smooth and graceful.

Call it a working knife. I don't care for pretty Artsy knives cause the first time I use it, it will look like crap anyway. All scratched up, knicks in the handle, shiny spots on the blade from use.

Nothin in this world is perfect. All a knife needs to do for me is have a pleasing shape, which yours does, and cut things well.

Good job. I would buy one, if I had money.
 
Hey that handle shined up a treat. Yes I am sure you will make better knives as you go along but this one is fine. Re your comment about the spacer effect of the glue. Light wood light bone the glue is always going to show up.

I attend a knife making class as the assistant not because I am good but because I have the ute to take all the equipment.

Anyway a trick we use for the new makers is to use black water buffelo horn.
We mix a little black die in the glue. Although we try to get the joints as close to perfect as possible the black horn and died glue generally means you can not see the glue as seperate from the black horn. Another way to cover the glue line is to use a coloured spacer. The spacer becomes a feature and
the glue joint is less of an issue. Even multiple layers red white red ,or black white black or what ever takes your fancy.

It is always going to look better even with spacers is you get a 100% flat fit.

I like the look of the bone to wood lines on you knife so well done.
 
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