in search of hard use fiddleback

Joined
Dec 1, 2007
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I need input from those of you familiar with Andy's work. I am looking for a stout 4-4.5" blade. I will use it for general camp chores, butchering med-large game, fire prep (some batonning).
Something somewhat "overbuilt" would fit the bill. I am not interested in tapered tang.
What are your recommendations ?
Thanks in advance
 
Bushcrafter or Hunter in 5/32" should suit you just fine! If you wanted to go bigger, I'd say a Duke. I have both a 5/32" hunter and 3/16" Duke; both are amazing knives, although if you want over-engineered, a Duke in 3/16" SFT is quite a beast.
 
A 3/16" Hunter like this (bottom one) also works well



A full height grind doesn't batton as well, but slices better..
 
All solid advice given all. I had a Duke and it was a beast. Kinda regret letting it go but I needed Winter tires to get back and forth to work.
 
Other than being a little pointy for processing game, the Big Paw Bushcraft (labeled Bear Paw in the thread) that still available from today's Fiddleback Friday would fit the bill.
 
Hunter in 3/16" CPM154 SFT. No rust, plenty of belly, overkill thickness, and one of Andy's best models, regardless of what people may say about the Bushfinger. [can of worms is now open]:D
 
I need input from those of you familiar with Andy's work. I am looking for a stout 4-4.5" blade. I will use it for general camp chores, butchering med-large game, fire prep (some batonning).
Something somewhat "overbuilt" would fit the bill. I am not interested in tapered tang.
What are your recommendations ?
Thanks in advance

Unless you just have big hands like a couple other guys here, in which case I get it, don't underestimate the abilities of the tapered tang in and of itself. I and my partner have put a tapered tang 3/16 Camp knife through a lot of hard work over a couple of years...chopping, cutting, batonning, whittling and general cutting. With no issues at all with strength or durability, and I love the forward weight distribution the tapered tang allows. I had a tapered 5/32 Bushcrafter out for hours today hard at work (see the new friend/playground thread for a few pics), and I'd take it over any full tang of comparable size I've had with no doubts or worries. I think the Bushcrafter would ,likely suit your needs well. That said, I have put a full tang hunter through a lot too, and it will also handle your description fine. But the next one I get will definitely be tapered tang.
 
The knife that most comes to mind would be a Camp Nessie, followed closely by the BC. The Camp Nessie has that overbuilt feel to it along with the finesse and flexibility of a smaller blade. Think bushcraft knife meets hatchet
 
Thanks so much for the information/education. The search for a 3/16
Hunter begins...

I'm really digging the current Hunter and Duke handle shapes a lot. I think I am going to try to land a 3/16 tapered Duke before next winter.I think the 3/4 grind height 3/16, tapered to 1/8 or 3/32 would have an awesome balance and be a heck of a knife for this part of the world during big game hunting season...especially if we have another winter like this one has been.
 
I watched Stan Buzek hammer a 3/32nd O1 knife through enough 2x4's to know that steel is nearly magical when ground and heat treated right. One thing I know about Andy's heat treat. It is right.

Honestly - I wouldn't worry about over built. When I saw the title of your post I thought "All of them".

TF
 
I watched Stan Buzek hammer a 3/32nd O1 knife through enough 2x4's to know that steel is nearly magical when ground and heat treated right. One thing I know about Andy's heat treat. It is right.

Honestly - I wouldn't worry about over built. When I saw the title of your post I thought "All of them".

TF

While in many cases (and approaching most) with Andy's knives, I agree with this statement. Just to through it out there, the standard F2 is not what most of us think of as a hard use knife :) I do definitely want a harder use version of it in 5/32 tapered though :D
 
As long as one takes care of the tip and avoids too much side loading even 3/32" can easily take lots of hard use. It is when technique is lacking and/or side impacts happen that knives get damaged.
 
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