in the process of reprofiling the HOGB8, what would you do with this (small) issue?

[Spirch]

this is a small issue but for fun i want to know how you would fix it

the yellow arrow show where the edge cave in a little bit, i need to level it with one other side, which side would you do, right or left side?

(i'm using a stone that is 3 inch wide)

 

[Jack of All Blades]

When you say leveling do you mean take material off of the front or back to equal the middle? Im confused but also im new to sharpening so this is something i can learn too.

 

[Andy the Aussie]

It's slightly recurved by the look of it. it would make the most sense. if you want a close to straight edge, to use the route that will have you take the less steel off, so taking the area back toward the choil down to make. In essence it will ever so slightly taper out toward the point.

 

[oge14]

Go with the right side. It will give it a little more belly on the blade. Alway's liked that look.

 

[u812]

I would go to the right.

 

[Spirch]

When you say leveling do you mean take material off of the front or back to equal the middle? Im confused but also im new to sharpening so this is something i can learn too.

mostly, the middle cannot be sharpened until i put one or both side equal to it so i need to remove material on one or both side, this is taking forever with an extra coarse dmt diamond (8x3) continuous stone, i'm not sure how much pressure the stone can take so i don't put too much

if someone know how much pressure is recommended let me know


right now i wish i had the extra extra coarse (i think it would go wayyy faster)

also, for now i use the full 8 inch long side to remove material on both side at the same time, i was going to do the right side but i want a whole straight edge

i got a full burr on one side, working on the other side now

 

[zombieassassin]

Both?

 

[Hooker]

Looks to me that you are sharpening small areas at a time. The entire edge, or at least a much larger area should be worked across the stone. Maybe I don't understand the technique you are using.

 

[Spirch]

this is what i'm currently doing, which take time since i don't put too much pressure and it is the whole edge

 

[COPIUOS]

I like this question and answer - thanks for posting the original question/issue Spirch, and I am learning from the group!

I ran into this same problem that is being discussed with a strider S30v, and was able to work it out, although I like hearing the logical approaches.

Good thing you have plenty enough blade to be able to straighten it out. Nothing like jumping in and trying, and I believe I (me personally) would quit before messing anything up too bad and send it to one of our guys here. Although I do have a problem knowing when to quit while I am sometimes!!!

I have begun "free handing" on a belt grinder (ken onion grinder attachment), and I believe I can tell the different hardness levels (58-60 is the posted range) after a few blades. Some seem relatively easier to re-profile to 20 or less, and some take more work and patience. I am very new to this approach so much of it is my lack of technique; I have some "hair wipers" and some that need more work, although slice paper just fine, and I have left some pre-mirror on purpose because they are sharp enough, although I do strop all.

 

[Spirch]

done, i got a small chip (maybe this happened when i chopped some wood) that i wont fix for now, blue arrow

i need to sharpen the left side, red arrow, you can see the difference between the edge

base on the cube, i did something around 19.5 degree on both side (39 degree total)