Increasing knife bevel angle after beer accident

D

drebs

Joined
Dec 6, 2014
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Ok embarrassing to day but the other night I had a few too many at my neighbors, and came home to sharpen my Gayle Bradley M4.

I guess I wasn’t at my best because I started at 15 degrees reprofiling it from the 20 it was at... somehow through different stone thicknesses and me not using a collar stop on my edge pro and being over served by my neighbor :),by the time I got to 1200 I was at 8 degrees ;).

Anyway I’ve always gone from higher to lower angles not lower to higher I imagine I will be grinding into the apex just flipping a heavy burr back and forth, lots of weakened steel and ripping carbides out. On the edge pro I’m thinking about setting my belt grinder to 17 degrees( I have it set basically like a ken onion worksharp belt grinding set up, I can move my 2x42 belt sander from 0-90 degrees then I use a flat that is a 4x4 right off to the side and to get flat at transfer the 90 degree flat onto the belt sander set at an angle it is running 1800 spfm with 60 grit orange blaze norton so I’m not concerned about burning the edge) and grinding it out then taking the 2 degrees off back down to 15 on the edge pro . Advisable ? Not ?

Any advice ?
 
What?

I see some mention of power tools, I'd advise against learning how to grind on something you want to keep nice.

However, ruining things is how ya learn.





drebs said:
Ok embarrassing to day but the other night I had a few too many at my neighbors, and came home to sharpen my Gayle Bradley M4.

I guess I wasn’t at my best because I started at 15 degrees reprofiling it from the 20 it was at... somehow through different stone thicknesses and me not using a collar stop on my edge pro and being over served by my neighbor :),by the time I got to 1200 I was at 8 degrees ;).

Anyway I’ve always gone from higher to lower angles not lower to higher I imagine I will be grinding into the apex just flipping a heavy burr back and forth, lots of weakened steel and ripping carbides out. On the edge pro I’m thinking about setting my belt grinder to 17 degrees( I have it set basically like a ken onion worksharp belt grinding set up, I can move my 2x42 belt sander from 0-90 degrees then I use a flat that is a 4x4 right off to the side and to get flat at transfer the 90 degree flat onto the belt sander set at an angle it is running 1800 spfm with 60 grit orange blaze norton so I’m not concerned about burning the edge) and grinding it out then taking the 2 degrees off back down to 15 on the edge pro . Advisable ? Not ?

Any advice ?
Click to expand...
 
DeadboxHero said:
What?

I see some mention of power tools, I'd advise against learning how to grind on something you want to keep nice.

However, ruining things is how ya learn.
Click to expand...

I’m just not seeing through how I go from 8 to 15 without just folding the apex back and forth every stroke but I guess that’s how it’s going to be ... or just micro bevel it?
 
drebs said:
I’m just not seeing through how I go from 8 to 15 without just folding the apex back and forth every stroke but I guess that’s how it’s going to be ... or just micro bevel it?
Click to expand...
Just stop overthinking it. Set it at 15dps and go for it. A few passes each side with light touch equals micro bevel. Going full boar and setting the shoulder back to 15° will set everything back to 15°
 
DeadboxHero said:
Just stop overthinking it. Set it at 15dps and go for it. A few passes each side with light touch equals micro bevel. Going full boar and setting the shoulder back to 15° will set everything back to 15°
Click to expand...


Venev diamond 60 grit too rough to go full boar ? Just got the whole set it not familiar with how aggressive these are could start higher if recommend?
 
drebs said:
Venev diamond 60 grit too rough to go full boar ? Just got the whole set it not familiar with how aggressive these are could start higher if recommend?
Click to expand...
Best practice is to start around 400 grit and work your way down as needed for speed and convenience that way you don't have to work out the rougher scratches if moving up.
Either way you'll figure it out by just doing it.

Whatever works
 
I think 60 grit is much to rough to start with. Try a finer grit belt to start. IMO
 
Sounds like a good opportunity to experiment with edge angles.
If 8dps isn't holding up, try 10, then 12, etc.
Personally I wouldn't set the whole bevel, just the edge.
 
If you have a true 8 degree per side bevel on your Gayle Bradley, the edge bevel will be very wide. Probably slightly more than 1/4" as a ballpark estimate. It will appear quite impressive. My ~11 degree per side bevel on my Delica in ZDP-189 looks really wide.

Trying to reset a bevel this wide to 15 degrees is easiest done with a micro bevel. It will be applied on both sides in less than 10 strokes. Probably two to three strokes per side and it's done. The bevel will *appear* to be very wide, but will actually have a secondary bevel waaaaaaaaaay down at the very edge of the edge. Probably 1/64" wide or so.

If for some reason you want to make the 15 degree edge go all the way back to the shoulder, you kinda can't do it. You could grind and grind and grind until you hit the shoulder. But at that point you would be in blade stock that's very, very thick and you're going to end up with a really wide edge anyway.

You have fundamentally changed the geometry of this blade. But I think you did it in a good way. It's thinner now, so it should cut more effectively. I say leave it like it is and maybe put a 10 or 11 dps micro on it.

Brian.
 
I rebeveled a pocket knife to 7 dps, then sharpened at 12 dps for a while. You'll loose a lot of blade life if you remove the new 8 degree bevel enough to make an even 15. Start at a medium or fine grit. That will do full sharpening for a while.
 
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