Inexpensive traditional folders for EDC

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I'm new here although I've visited for years via Google when doing searches on various knife topics. I recently got on a kick to discover my own personal preferences actually using the most inexpensive (under $30) traditional folders I can find for EDC, which for me is something between 3.5 to 4 inches closed, preferably single blade to keep a low profile for pocket carry. The first two I want to try are the Case Sodbuster Jr. 3137 CV and the Opinel No. 6 Carbone, both of which arrived in the mail the other day so I wanted to (1) give my initial impressions of them and (2) solicit the thoughts of others on these or any other knives that fit this category.

Fit and finish on both are good for the price paid. The blades aren't centered at all but that's about the only thing I could find to really "complain" about if I were to complain, which I'm not. The blade on the Sodbuster is finished much better; polished very nicely and spine edges dehorned whereas the No. 6 spine is pretty sharp and might need to be sanded just a bit to take the edge off. The Sodbuster's construction naturally requires more fit and finish considering the backspring and pins, which the No. 6 doesn't have, and the pivot point having to be ground flush with the handle, whereas the pivot pin on the No. 6 is covered by the lock collar. All things considered it's pretty amazing that Case can hit the price point they do on the Sodbusters, although at less than half the price and manufactured in France, Opinel also does a super job on price no question.

The No. 6 came rather dull and couldn't slice regular notebook paper cleanly. It more kind of tore a jagged rip through it than actually cut it. About 10 minutes on my Sharpmaker remedied that nicely. On the other hand the Sodbuster came pretty sharp and sliced the notebook paper easily. I didn't take it to the Sharpmaker as I want to see how the factory edge performs and lasts. This would seem to be a distinct advantage of the Sodbuster for folks who need a sharp edge out of the box.

The most significant advantage of the No. 6 is the locking collar, a pretty innovative design that I've read has stood the test of time as far as reliability. The No. 6 is also much lighter in weight with a reputation for still being able to handle normal EDC-type usage for a lifetime and even beyond. However, the Sodbuster is simply a more substantial knife with a thicker blade that in theory could handle heavier tasks that the thin blade of the No. 6 might have trouble with on a sustained basis, but any difference could just be theoretical as neither knife is intended for truly heavy tasks such as prepping firewood or tactical/self-defense. That said, even the lock on the No. 6 might only provide a theoretical advantage over the Sodbuster considering the intended uses for these types of knives.

The Sodbuster blade is made of Case's CV carbon steel while the No. 6 uses XC90 carbon steel. I've read that both are 1095 derivatives but I don't know that for sure; perhaps someone with more knowledge can weigh in. In any case there seems to be a long-standing consensus, not to mention just plain usage by many multitudes over many years, that both steels work just fine. I can say that I was able to get the No. 6 screaming sharp with little effort to the point that it will slice very fine slivers of paper using almost just the weight of the blade.

The handle of the Sodbuster is high visibility yellow synthetic while the No. 6 is beech wood. Theoretically the Case handle material would be more durable but the standard Opinel beech has stood the test of time for the uses these types of knives were intended for. Although I haven't put the knives through sustained usage yet, initially the contour of the No. 6 handle feels better in my hand. Schlepping around the house and the backyard with each in a pocket, the Sodbuster's flat slabs and heftier weight seemed to rest better at the bottom of my pocket while the round, ultra light No. 6 bulged a bit and at times seemed to want to shift around and sometimes work itself into weird positions, for example when kneeling down to arrange the coals in my hibachi or getting rough-and-tumble with the doggies. It wasn't a big deal but it did catch my attention.

Overall after a Saturday BBQing and otherwise putzing around the backyard, the No. 6 seems like it would excel at food prep, even working as a small fillet knife in a pinch, while the Sodbuster might be a little better at things like sustained cutting of cardboard and rope as well as carving wood. My initial impression of both is that they're extremely good values that will serve those on a tight budget every bit as well as any traditional folder on the market today, just without any bells and whistles (although to some the lack of any bells and whistles coupled with rock-bottom pricing is a very nice bell and whistle in and of itself).

The next inexpensive traditionals I want to try are a couple of stainless knives -- the Buck 302 Solitaire in black sawcut delrin and A.G. Russell's War Eagle Blades 3.5 inch Lockback in yellow delrin. The War Eagle Blades are Chinese-made but A.G. Russell does a great job with his manufacturers in China -- I have one of his new Lockback Folding Hunters in stag and for the price, the quality and features are truly astounding.

Ok, that went longer than I originally intended. I hope I didn't bore anyone too much. My wife has some new cookware she wants to use for Sunday dinner and those cardboard boxes aren't going to open themselves....
 
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Rough Rider knives are inexpensive but generally good quality. I only have two of that brand but they are really quite good, even when not taking into account the sub-$10 purchase point.
 
I have a Opie 8 in my truck for when eating out.. Super slicer.. Hate those restaurant safety knives that tear the food like a 1 tooth beaver!! Mine is Inox steel and I can get it way past scary sharp.. JMO!!! John:)
 
For myself, I'd avoid using the sharpmaker on your Opinel no. 6 and use a mousepad and 800-2000grit sandpaper.
It tears because they leave a toothy finish on them from the factory. A couple minutes using the sandpaper on the mousepad + stropping will keep the well ground convex edge they leave on and give you a hair whittling edge.

I'd also use a wax coat near the pivot/to protect the wood from any swelling that may occur from wetter conditions

Look up youtube videos on how to maintain your convex edge using the sandpaper and mousepad method.

Both wonderful acquisitions though. Even with the variety of knives in my collection, I still really enjoy the sodbuster and Opinel immensely.
 
jc and gonebad - I've heard of Rough Rider but I'm pretty leery of Chinese "440" (is it even really true 440?), although I admit my research on RR stopped at "Made in China" so perhaps I'm jumping the gun on not looking at them. The only reason I'm strongly considering War Eagle Blades is that I trust A.G. Russell. Please don't take this the wrong way but based on experience from when I was young and dumb, Chinese steel at best is inconsistent and at worst is just junk. To me $10 thrown away is still $10 thrown away and if I'm going to buy Chinese I'd rather just pay an extra $10 to A.G. and not have to wonder one bit about adequate quality.

jmh - I'm so happy with my No. 6 that I'm looking at a No. 12 for a quirky folding carbon steel kitchen knife. I've heard that the No. 8 is the most popular size and now you've got me considering a No. 8 Inox like yours for my own car glove box.
 
Ryouchijtx - Why would you avoid the Sharpmaker for the Opinel? It worked just fine, in fact better than fine, for me. I've heard of using sandpaper to sharpen but my stones and now my Sharpmaker have been so foolproof that I never felt the need to try something else. I'm open to it, though, especially if there are advantages to be had. What are the advantages of sandpaper?
 
Yeah for a Chinese made knife they stand up to the test with fit and finish of most knives out there they are really good for your buck and they are sharp
 
CASE Sodbuster and Opinel are mainstay knives, really central to any enthusiast's and user's collection. Simple, attractive and most of all functional. I'm particularly keen on Opinels due to their lightweight, simple lock, good steels. Both of these knives have another very important but sometimes overlooked virtue - thick rounded handles, this ensure comfort in the hand.

You might like to look at CASE's Slimline Trapper barehead delrin (yellow, jigged brown, blue) as another interesting inexpensive single blade, great food knife.

Regards, Will
 
Ryouchijtx - Why would you avoid the Sharpmaker for the Opinel? It worked just fine, in fact better than fine, for me. I've heard of using sandpaper to sharpen but my stones and now my Sharpmaker have been so foolproof that I never felt the need to try something else. I'm open to it, though, especially if there are advantages to be had. What are the advantages of sandpaper?

Mmm just really to each their own. I just find it a very useful skill learning how to maintain a convex grind and have found that the convex they leave on cuts better than a v edge left after a sharpmaker.
In whole the Sharpmaker is meant to give you a flat-angled bevel. Which in turn gives your Opinel a v bevel. You can maintain/convert that v bevel into convex by stropping it after the sharpmaker if you so choose

In the end, you strop your Opinel regularly, you'll rarely have to re-sharpen it.
 
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Will - The slimline trapper looks like a nice knife close to my category, just a smidgen on the long side at 4 1/8" and a smidgen over $30 on average. I like the yellow delrin CV version, though, and might just pick one up to put against the others I'm trying out. Thanks for the tip!

Ryouchijtx - That's real interesting info on the convex grind. I hadn't put any thought into that. The method you describe is kind of on the advanced side for me, but at the price of the Opinels I think I'll get another to experiment with. Thanks to you as well for the tip! This is getting more interesting than I first imagined.... Edit: I'll search via Google and look on YouTube for tutorials, but to maintain the convex grind in the way you describe, I'll be applying the entire side of the blade to the sandpaper with the cushy mousepad underneath to maintain the convex contour, correct?
 
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csmats The Slimline is long, but it's really light, you certainly won't find that weighing down your pocket, nor is it clumsy. I think of it as being a bit like the French Laguiole type knife (but they're heavier and can come very costly)
 
jc and gonebad - I've heard of Rough Rider but I'm pretty leery of Chinese "440" (is it even really true 440?), although I admit my research on RR stopped at "Made in China" so perhaps I'm jumping the gun on not looking at them. The only reason I'm strongly considering War Eagle Blades is that I trust A.G. Russell. Please don't take this the wrong way but based on experience from when I was young and dumb, Chinese steel at best is inconsistent and at worst is just junk. To me $10 thrown away is still $10 thrown away and if I'm going to buy Chinese I'd rather just pay an extra $10 to A.G. and not have to wonder one bit about adequate quality.

I like Rough Riders too but this is an admirable approach. :thumbup:
 
I've over a dozen RRs and some Colts - all good knives, well made, good steel and inexpensive. Don't under estimate them.
Opinels are good also.
Rich
 
jc and gonebad - I've heard of Rough Rider but I'm pretty leery of Chinese "440" (is it even really true 440?), although I admit my research on RR stopped at "Made in China" so perhaps I'm jumping the gun on not looking at them. The only reason I'm strongly considering War Eagle Blades is that I trust A.G. Russell. Please don't take this the wrong way but based on experience from when I was young and dumb, Chinese steel at best is inconsistent and at worst is just junk. To me $10 thrown away is still $10 thrown away and if I'm going to buy Chinese I'd rather just pay an extra $10 to A.G. and not have to wonder one bit about adequate quality.

jmh - I'm so happy with my No. 6 that I'm looking at a No. 12 for a quirky folding carbon steel kitchen knife. I've heard that the No. 8 is the most popular size and now you've got me considering a No. 8 Inox like yours for my own car glove box.

There are inexpensive Chinese knives with gunky blade steel. There are others which have blade steel similar to 440A. (440A was used by both Schade-US and Camillus as their standard blade steel for traditional knives.) We have a lot of folks here who have used a lot of Rough Rider knives. They report that the Rough Rider steel works well.

On the other hand, buying an A.G. Russell knife is totally bomb-proof. If you find an issue with one of their knives, they will take it back.
 
Check out the Rough Rider and Related thread. It may take a couple days to read through all the posts, but it is time well spent.
I only have around 12 of the rough riders. They are consistently sharp out of the box, with even grinds, and well centered blades. From what I've seen, blade rub is rare, even on my RR915 Stoneworx stockman with two back springs, there is no blade rub. Fit and finish is, in my humble opinion, comparable to a Case, or Buck. I do not own any GEC, Queen, Canal Street, or other high dollar production knives, so I cannot compare the Rough Riders and related to those.
The heat treat on the Rough Riders (also the Colt, Marbles, and Taylor Schrade) seems to be "right". I did some carving on some seasoned oak using my Rough Rider large sunfish. NO damage to the blades, and it did not even need stropped, when I finished; it was still arm hair shaving sharp.
The Rough Riders let you try out a multitude of different patterns, without bankrupting the bank. If you decode you like a pattern, you can "upgrade" to a higher brand (if they make that pattern) or you may decide there is nothing wrong with the Rough Rider (or Colt or Marbles, etc) and just stick with them for that pattern.
 
There are inexpensive Chinese knives with gunky blade steel. There are others which have blade steel similar to 440A. (440A was used by both Schade-US and Camillus as their standard blade steel for traditional knives.) We have a lot of folks here who have used a lot of Rough Rider knives. They report that the Rough Rider steel works well.
...

Check out the Rough Rider and Related thread. It may take a couple days to read through all the posts, but it is time well spent.
I only have around 12 of the rough riders. They are consistently sharp out of the box, with even grinds, and well centered blades. From what I've seen, blade rub is rare, even on my RR915 Stoneworx stockman with two back springs, there is no blade rub. Fit and finish is, in my humble opinion, comparable to a Case, or Buck. I do not own any GEC, Queen, Canal Street, or other high dollar production knives, so I cannot compare the Rough Riders and related to those.
The heat treat on the Rough Riders (also the Colt, Marbles, and Taylor Schrade) seems to be "right". I did some carving on some seasoned oak using my Rough Rider large sunfish. NO damage to the blades, and it did not even need stropped, when I finished; it was still arm hair shaving sharp.
The Rough Riders let you try out a multitude of different patterns, without bankrupting the bank. If you decode you like a pattern, you can "upgrade" to a higher brand (if they make that pattern) or you may decide there is nothing wrong with the Rough Rider (or Colt or Marbles, etc) and just stick with them for that pattern.

Welcome to BF, csmats! :thumbup: I enjoyed your review of your Case and your Opinel. I was surprised that your Opinel needed sharpening before use (although I think others have recently reported experiences similar to yours); I've purchased carbon steel Opinels (#6 and #7) and have used them a lot and still haven't sharpened them, just stropped occasionally.

Here's a link to the Rough Rider thread recommended above: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/582468-Rough-Rider-amp-Related-Slipjoints

I'm one of those who has owned many Rough Riders (close to 2 dozen) and other pocket knives manufactured in China: Colt, Marbles, some Bucks, Taylor-Schrade, Taylor-Imperial. And I have decided that they are fine knives for me!

- GT
 
Ok people, now you've gone and done it ... I just bought an Opinel No. 8 Inox for a glove box knife (I suppose the Buck 110 can stay there too) and a Rough Rider RR1357 Amber Jigged Bone Linerlock to try out against the other EDC's. I was looking at the Case Slimline Trapper 31048 CV when my wife heard me a-clickin' away and came over saying, "What are you buying?" I said, "Honey, I just got two highly recommended knives for only about $20! I did good, right?" To which she gave me her patented eyeroll and walked away. I stopped there because the Case would have taken me well above the $20 mea culpa that got me off the hook with just an eyeroll. Some other time when she's not around though....

That RR1357 with amber jigged bone, long pull match strike clip point, brass linerlock, grooved bolsters and propeller shield looks really nice I have to admit. If the fit, finish and steel are good it will be a great bargain, exactly the type of knife I'm looking for with this little project. I looked at their website but there isn't much information there. Can anyone tell me if they're a Chinese company or if they're an American company that has their products manufactured in China?
 
Will - The slimline trapper looks like a nice knife close to my category, just a smidgen on the long side at 4 1/8" and a smidgen over $30 on average. I like the yellow delrin CV version, though, and might just pick one up to put against the others I'm trying out. Thanks for the tip!

Ryouchijtx - That's real interesting info on the convex grind. I hadn't put any thought into that. The method you describe is kind of on the advanced side for me, but at the price of the Opinels I think I'll get another to experiment with. Thanks to you as well for the tip! This is getting more interesting than I first imagined.... Edit: I'll search via Google and look on YouTube for tutorials, but to maintain the convex grind in the way you describe, I'll be applying the entire side of the blade to the sandpaper with the cushy mousepad underneath to maintain the convex contour, correct?

Indeed csmats the entire side of the blade nearest to the edge should contact the sandpaper and the mousepad will have some gift and conform to the edge as you drag/sharpen it across. It's almost impossible to mess up and completely easy to come out with a screaming polished edge.
 
Thanks Ryouchijtx. I just bought a No. 8 Inox for my car glove box and that'll be the knife I experiment with. I guess this method will also polish up the whole blade real nice as well, right? I like that idea a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
 
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