INFI Puukko

A

Ankar Sheng

Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
596
Hey guys, I have a saber ground AD blank and I've been thinking of making it into a full tang puukko and just wanted to get some thoughts from the wise hogs out there.

The plan is to grind off the talon hole, bringing tha handle right up to the ricasso. Cut/grind the butt down past the last screw post, because thats as long as I need the handle to be. And turn the saber grind bevel into a "zero" scandi edge, bringing the edge back a bit so it doesnt stick out so far past the grip.

This will leave the handle with only 2 fasteners, but that should be enough for a small knife right?

Also, I got some 1/4" stainless rods, pretty sure I ordered tubes to re attach the handles busse style, but anyway, I ended up with solid rods. Whats the method for using these? Cut them with x[/I ]mm wider than the grips and peen them then grind them down? Anyone know how much extra length to leave them with for peening?
 
All circuits are busy, please wait for the next available HOG. :D
Good luck with the project!
 
I really like the idea of the knife....my only query which remains un-answered in my own mind as I possibly have'nt had enough "hands on time" with both grinds compared to the guys who give the recommendation such as Ray Mears....but to me my sabre grind RMD's with a convex edge seem to out last my bushcrafter scandi grind edges by a good bit...and both are fairly easy to top up....it's just that the scandi grind seems to need it a little more often.

Speaking to the custom knife makers over here who make these bushcrafters....many seem to think that a good convex edge performs better...my bushcrafters are in 01 steel and an 01 damascus...both from the two top makers...Alan Wood and Mick Wardell and the heat treats will be spot on...but certainly Mick likes a convex edge on a knife and I am inclined to agree...maybe this would make for a very interesting "review" once you have your Scandi Infi knife done.

Who are you going to use to re-heat treat the knife? After the grinding needed it would probably need a re-heat treat, right? In much of my experience it is often the "heat treatment" which "makes" the knife special performance wise....so maybe that is an important consideration.
 
What do you mean by "Blank"? Is it an unground blank? Without the Busse Heat treat, you will not get INFI performance. If it is a regular AD you want to regrind, then you can just keep the temps low while grinding, it will not wreck the Heat treat, but the warranty will probably be gone.
 
Hi guys, thanks for getting back to me.

Peter, based on my experience scandi grinds are hands down the most suitable types of edges for my needs. I have some extremely sharp convexed knives, but they just don't work wood as nicely.

Dan, the inclusive angle should be about 23degrees, to give some perspective Mora's (the 510 at least) is aprox 20degrees, the koster bushcraft is about 26degrees.

Finkenstein, it was just a handleless AD, otherwise fully finished.
 
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