Initial sharpening - how?

Plain ol Bill · Sep 12, 2001

Messed up my first knife trying to get the first edge on it(can save it after you guys tell me how I hope). After heat treat and finishing I still have about 1/32 of metal left on the edge. I know now not to try to hold it against my 8" wheel to sharpen it. My second knife is ready for an edge now and I don't want to mess it up too. Tell me how to get this initial edge on guys. HELP (Hey Nick I may put it in a paper bag and bring it to you)

Chang · Sep 12, 2001

I run a dull 50-grit grit belt make one or two *quick*, cooling it with water. Then 220-grit belt. Then a 600-grit belt. Make sure to keep the temperature down. I sharpen on the platen. Seems to work OK for me.

Belstain · Sep 13, 2001

I use a brand new 120 or 220 grit belt and make quick light passes then knock off the burr with a ceramic stone.

L6steel · Sep 13, 2001

I use a used 120 grit belt. Hold the knife edge into the belt on the top where the belt has no backing. Be careful, it takes some practice. You have to use very light pressure and make sure the belt has no nicks in the edges. Work the blade till theres an edge and then buff it sharp with a loose muslin wheel and the proper compound. For stainless steels I use green chrome and regular steel I use white rouge. It'll get super sharp real fast. Just remember that buffer is mean and bites hard.

Greg Covington · Sep 13, 2001

I do an initial sharpen on a worn 220 belt...pushing it into the slack of the belt between the platen and wheel. It is less aggressive here and give a good convex. Then I finish up on a Norton Fine India stone.

NickWheeler · Sep 13, 2001

Bill-

Bring it on down! But here's what I do... I draw the edge against a 120x belt going slow (making contact on a slack portion) until that initial edge is formed. This should only take one to a few passes.

I then clean it up with a 220x belt, then a sharp 400x, and I finish it off with a W-O-R-N 600x belt loaded with buffing compound. Since we like those hand-rubbed finishes, it's a lot easier to get the final edge this way rather than the buffer (as you can buff the satin into a partial mirror).

On my mirror polished knives I always just buffed the burr off after the 400x belt.

There are so many stones out there that I get lost trying to figure out which is best... and the belts get things sharp...that's why I stick with them (it works for me)

Nick

RHINOKNIVES · Sep 13, 2001

bill every one finds their favorite. i prefer the slack belt convex edge. i leave the palten in and work above it. starting with a 120Grit ceramic working from tip to ricasso slowly increaseing pressure. this helps the 2"gouge on the ricasso from the 2"belt i then like to use 400G or 600G cork belts loaded with fabulustor. depending on the blade design i get better results useing 1" belt. a god way to practice is will your ladys old beaters(ask firist) or you can find some
some good ones to practice will at the goodwill, garage sell, etc,

Plain ol Bill · Sep 13, 2001

thanks guys - I'll try to save the other, and take the one I have not tried on down to Nick and let him give me another lesson.

Wapiti · Sep 13, 2001

A slightly different method.
I start with a very worn 120 belt on slow to set the bevels.
Then go to a few careful swipes on my fine India stone with Kerosene.
Lastly, a few swipes on my 18" x 1 1/4" leather strop loaded with White compound, the last swipe, very gentle on each side. My strop is glued to a slightly larger piece of wood which I clamp to my bench edge when in use. I test all my egdes on cigarette papers.
If I am looking for a more aggressive edge, I leave out the stropping.
Try it, you'll like it.