Input on recent purchase, please - lock related.

Sufler

Sufler

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2005
Messages
1,885
Just received a pre-owned Classic 2000 in the mail. I noticed one thing about the lock immediately, when opened using the thumbstud, the lock engages at about 30%. However, I can also push the lock to full 100% coverage. Tell me... should I be concerned? What does this mean?

Also, I'm trying to date this Sebenza... has 'C 00' inside the handle slab - I'm assuming year 2000 production?

Pics below to help what I'm trying to explain.

Thanks for any input as I'm quite puzzled and somewhat concerned.

Lock at normal thumbstud used opening - about 30% coverage.

DSC04739.jpg


Lock pushed in.

DSC04740.jpg


Full-size shot and inside slab.

DSC04742.jpg


DSC04741.jpg
 
I would personally rather have my bar start out where yours is than over further. I would trust my fingers to that lock-up. Just to let you know I was a CRK dealer for a short time and have handled dozens of them, none failed.
 
also the # inside the handle can be misleading as I am almost certain it is not the year of manufacture. Others will chime in soon.
 
The initial lockup seems a bit early, but the fact you can move the lockbar over 100% doesn't sound right. I can not do that on any of my 3 small sebenzas.

I will take a guess and say you don't have the birthday card? The dates on the scale really don't mean anything as they are the date the scale was made, not the date the knife was born.

I would suggest calling CRK and getting their opinion. I would suggest sending it in for a good spa treatment.
 

Give "Heather" at CRK a call Monday morning, There closed on friday's
Or you can talk to "Charmaine" also, 208-375-0367

The scales were manufactured in the 3rd quarter of 2000, But that doesn't mean the knife was assembled then. The scales sit in 5 gallon buckets till they assemble the knife.
 
I'm not sure "pushing" the lockbar over further is indicative of a bad lockup.
 
Try tightening up all your screws particularly pivot and stop bar, possibly it's not properly tightened. The tight tolerances on the seb does mean that if it isn't properly reassembled after stripping it may not lock up properly. Hope that helps!
 
Josh K said:
I'm not sure "pushing" the lockbar over further is indicative of a bad lockup.
Click to expand...

Absolutely not. I have been able to do this with all of the sebenzas I have ever held. And it is 100% normal. As much lock up as your getting it will pass a spine wack test, although I would not do that. All it means is your lock bar will last longer than an average one.
 
Wyldey said:
Try tightening up all your screws particularly pivot and stop bar, possibly it's not properly tightened. The tight tolerances on the seb does mean that if it isn't properly reassembled after stripping it may not lock up properly. Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

It is locking up properly. He is then inducing poor lockup by forcing the lockbar all the way over.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyldey View Post
Try tightening up all your screws particularly pivot and stop bar, possibly it's not properly tightened. The tight tolerances on the seb does mean that if it isn't properly reassembled after stripping it may not lock up properly. Hope that helps!
It is locking up properly. He is then inducing poor lockup by forcing the lockbar all the way over.
Click to expand...

Ok let me rephrase what I mean, "may not lock up properly" is a poor choice of words. Point taken Josh K, you are correct the knife is locking up properly.

To expand a little on what I hope is a helpful suggestion:

If the knife has been taken apart and pivot and blade stop screws are not tight on reassembly, the lock bar can travel further then normal, sometimes it looks like it's been properly reassembled but the tolerances on the seb are very precise sometimes the components stick before they are properly nested and if one is not careful with reassembly -something may be minutely out of alignment, my own experience I'm particularly careful with the thicker pivot cylinder that keeps the washers in place, if it's not 100% flush with the washers, it sometimes looks ok but it isn't. It's got to feel right on reassembly and work right on the action. Sometimes it's hard to tell by eyeballing it alone.

Stripping and reassembly may fix the problem. I'm only suggesting a possible solution and by no means is this a definitive "this is the OP's problem and this is the 100% fix" answer. It just may help to take the knife apart and reassemble it paying careful attention to all components nesting properly and tightening the screws down.

Peace brothers and sisters :)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all of your input so far, gentlemen.

One more question. Could anyone explain to me how I could eliminate the slight drag/grind caused by the ball detent when opening the knife?

Thank you.
 
Sufler said:
Thanks for all of your input so far, gentlemen.

One more question. Could anyone explain to me how I could eliminate the slight drag/grind caused by the ball detent when opening the knife?

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Open and close it lots of times. :)
 
You can try cleaning the ball bearing on the lock bar and the bearing track on the blade, tuf glide or your favorite lubricant on the ball bearing and work the bearing see if it's smooth, it might have picked up some lint fibre/dirt. :)
 
Sufler said:
Ha! And, here I thought that since it's pre-owned... that's been done often enough. I have a brand new 21 also and IT'S smooth.
Click to expand...

I dont know guys maybe im stupid. I have 2 large sebs in BG42, I would consider the lock bar being as solid as possiable when in the far right position. I have used a large Pheasant Tail being "mack daddy locked" when it is in the far right, against the frame position. My Seb is OLD and has dressed more South Carolina deer than I can count. Damn guys, it can move only so far right and that is in complete lock position.Damn guys, in real life use if you can make one fail your a better than man than me.
 
Just a quick update on the issue to anybody who's interested. I disassembled, cleaned and lubed, and reassembled the Classic properly - it works just like my new 21 now; the lock up is exactly like on my 21.

I'm happy I bought the Classic. This was the first time I tore down a Sebenza and I am still impressed with the tight fitting parts - talk about high tolerances - and simplicity of the design. I'm glad to own two of this particular design - money saved and well spent. My 21's a bit too sentimental to use often and the Classic will see more.

Anyway... thanks for all the input.

:thumbup:
 
As long as you have no blade play you should be fine. I have or have had several sebenza's where they lock-up at say 50%, but if you hold them tightly with a firm grip when using them for some heavy cutting, the lockbar will engage furthur, to the say 75-80% range. Even my umnumzaan does this. This is normal. Also, taking it apart, cleaning and putting it back together sometimes fixes this as well. Pocket lint and just crud in general will wreck havoc on a folding knife, so making sure its clean helps a great deal...................Any issue you have will be fully addressed when you call CRK. Ask for Heather, she will advise you what to do. Pics always help also, so send them with your email as well.

To eliminate the drag sound/feel, I just put a drop of CRK lube in the groove, it will be like butter after that and its long wearing. I did that to my umnumzaan when I got it last fall and havent done so since.
 
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