Well that sucks..It just wouldn't be right to use someone elses design like that would it..perhaps I could change somethings up
No, I was saying the opposite....that it is a good design, and fairly well respected. By all means, make it. No one owns this pattern, it is almost universal.
As to your second knife design, I assume it will be a kitchen knife. If that is so, the very finely pointed tip is OK, but if it will be used for outdoor use, it might snap off at the very tip.
In a kitchen knife, handle rise above the counter is important. If in the drawing, you angled the handle up a bit more in line with the spine of the blade, it would give more knuckle clearance. This would require a wider piece of steel that you drew. Remember that the steel is usually only a small part part of the final cost of a knife. Scrimping here is not wise. The final product can be much more valuable and much more useful by getting the steel size you need.
A comment in general:
Buying steel by the bar is the normal way....and works most of the time. If you plan on making a fair number of knives from a particular type of steel, buying the steel in a wider sheet is a really good idea. Whether 6" or 12", or only 3"....wider stock allows you to draw and cut out exactly what you need. The waste is very low on the sheet if you place blade profiles carefully. Cut only what you need for a few knives, and set the sheet up against the wall or on a shelf until you have another knife design to cut out. I usually buy 6X24 and 12X24 sheets for kitchen blades. On blade shapes that I know will be more straight and fit into a specific rectangle, I use bar stock of the needed width.
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