Inquiry on Lansky System Hones

H

horsenut

Joined
Sep 16, 2000
Messages
5
I have a slight disability with my right hand
which is the dominant one and it makes it very difficult to maintain the proper edge and more importantly, correct angle as I draw a blade across my bench stones.
So, the various Lansky systems appear to be
my salvation but I am curious as to how long
the various hone types (ceramic, diamond, natural Arkansas novaculite) last before replacement becomes necessary. And also does
anyone have a preference?


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horsenut
 
If you decide to buy a Lansky kit, don't forget to get the Universal/Pedestal mount. During heavy reprofiling, I can use either hand interchangably.

Ceramic and diamond will last almost forever, novaculite stone will wear relatively faster than those two. As an illustration, it was 3 years of heavy sharpenings until I needed a replacement for the extra coarse stone (the softest of the bunch).

As a side note, don't trust the angles stamped on the clamp. Just do the magicmarker trick and adjust the angle accordingly.

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Reynaert
 
Hi Horsenut, and let me be the first to welcome you to blade forums!

I have a lansky, that lasted about 10 years before the glue began failing and the stones began falling of the plastic holder. Maybe if I would have stored it inside, instead of in the barn, exposed to hot summers and cold winters it would have lasted longer. The stones themselves however, are still in good shape. I could probably find an epoxy or something to repair them, but just never did.

I suppose it would also depend on how much you would be using them, but for "average" use, (whatever that is) it will last a long time.
 
Originally posted by Frantium:
If you decide to buy a Lansky kit, don't forget to get the Universal/Pedestal mount. During heavy reprofiling, I can use either hand interchangably.

Ceramic and diamond will last almost forever, novaculite stone will wear relatively faster than those two. As an illustration, it was 3 years of heavy sharpenings until I needed a replacement for the extra coarse stone (the softest of the bunch).

As a side note, don't trust the angles stamped on the clamp. Just do the magicmarker trick and adjust the angle accordingly.
Click to expand...

Just a tyro here, but what "magic marker
trick". Thanks


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horsenut
 
Welcome to the forums Horsenut.
I hope you will enjoy this place as much as I have all ready
smile.gif



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The most dangerous knife is a dull one,
www.alansattik.twoffice.com
 
A touch of superglue works fine when the stones fall off the plastic holder.
smile.gif


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ralph
 
Just a tyro here, but what "magic marker trick".
Click to expand...

Mark the edge with a magicmarker and begin sharpening your blade. If you have set the correct angle, you should be able to erase the mark pretty easy. If your hone erases only a partial part of the marked edge, you haven't set the angle correctly.

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Reynaert
 
If you have a problem with your hand, you might want to get the mount for it. Also, I used a Lansky for a while. I found that if you do complete resharpenings (not minor touch ups), you have to have the extra coarse stone. The stones don't wear out very quickly at all, and can be replaced. The coarser stones will wear out faster though.

Don't trust the angle markings too much as someone as previously pointed out. Everytime someone makes a post about the Lansky, I try to tell them about the angle markings. So here goes.

The angle markings are wrong. If you have half an inch of the blade sticking out from the clamp, the actual angles are about 13, 17, 21, and 25 degrees. This varies slightly by how the blade is clamped and what part of the blade you are sharpening (farther from the clamp angle selector, the lower the angle).

Also, the aluminum clamp will scratch your knife. Place some masking tape or something over the knife so the clamp doesn't scratch up your finish.



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Chang the Asian Janitorial Apparatus
 
I have not personally had any experience with the Lansky sharpeners. But I do have a Gatco sharpening system, they operate exactly the same. I really like mine. So far the best sharpening system I have purchased. I also think it would work really well for a person with a disability.
THANKS!!!
-NAN-

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-War alone keys up all human energies to their maximum tension and sets the seal of nobility on those people who have the courage to face it -Benito Mussolini-
 
I have found that a small square of leather helps the clamp better hold the blade and eliminates scratching.

I have had good success with my diamond Lansky kit - it enabled a rookie like me to reprofile my Benchmade 720 with ease. I do my final passes (and touchups) with the regular fine stone - works great for me
smile.gif


One of these days I'm gonna try that Sharpmaker though
wink.gif
 
Originally posted by Frantium:
Mark the edge with a magicmarker and begin sharpening your blade. If you have set the correct angle, you should be able to erase the mark pretty easy. If your hone erases only a partial part of the marked edge, you haven't set the angle correctly.
Click to expand...

A question comes to mind, considering how
porous a substance steel is, using this trick sounds good but which type of magic
marker should you use, the "Permanent" type
which almost never goes away or the "Washable" variety. It occurs to me that the
stuff might soak into the blade and permanently stain it.


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How do you catch a loose horse?
Make a noise like a carrot.
- British Cavalry joke
 
Originally posted by horsenut:
A question comes to mind, considering how
porous a substance steel is, using this trick sounds good but which type of magic
marker should you use, the "Permanent" type
which almost never goes away or the "Washable" variety. It occurs to me that the
stuff might soak into the blade and permanently stain it.
Click to expand...

Horsenut, it'll only stain the blade if you leave it there for weeks or more. Even then, you're gonna remove the metal where the mark is! This simple method works great to see what the angle really is, and whether you need to reposition the blade. Chang's right, position the blade properly and get the clamp mount. I've got Lansky's, bought a couple of extra coarse diamond stones for reprofiling, and a Spyderco 204mf for everyday touch ups and serrations, scissors, etc. I need to get a big DMT extra coarse diamond stone for reprofiling though.

Hank
 
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