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Intro to stropping

Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
1,304
I am thinking of getting a strop, but have a lot of questions.

First, by way of background: I use folding knives of moderate size (about 4-4 ½ inch closed). I have a Sharpmaker with the ultra fine stone and can get my tools quite sharp using this system.

Now my questions:

-- the big one: will a strop improve the sharpness of my knives over what I have now, especially given how limited in size they are?

--if so, which of these two strops would you recommend (I don't have a place to hang the strop; a paddle will work much better for me):

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=J444

(in this case, what is the difference between black, brown, tan and red leathers)

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=J45

(in this case, it is supposed to progress from red to black leather. Again, the difference?)

Finally, what paste would folks recommend I use if I get a strop? And how much do you put on?

My thanks for everyon's wisdom and advice, and to this forum for existing.
 
If you know what youre doing,a strop will refine the edge quite a bit. I would start with the paddle and green compound, and see where this gets you.
 
just a thought, but any stropping will start to create a convexed edge, which isn't that big of a deal on its own, but is something to consider, given that you use the sharpmaker. I intentionally don't strop my knives because I still want to use stones on them. I do strop my straight razors, and find that if they have had a few sessions on the treated strop, they take a little more time on the stones to re-set the bevel.
 
just a thought, but any stropping will start to create a convexed edge, which isn't that big of a deal on its own, but is something to consider, given that you use the sharpmaker. I intentionally don't strop my knives because I still want to use stones on them. I do strop my straight razors, and find that if they have had a few sessions on the treated strop, they take a little more time on the stones to re-set the bevel.

If you're scared of creating a convex edge (would take years of extremely quick stropping to actually make a convexed edge on a strop) just user the stiffest leather you can fine with the least amount of flex and give, also I find this gives me a more polishied and helps me find my angle better than using softer leathers.
 
Stropping is a art just like freehand sharpening and requires you to be able to "feel" the edge. The convexing is not a issue unless you using something like a edge pro that sets perfect bevels, hand sharpening and even using a sharpmaker will still give you a bit of convex to you edge anyways.

A harder, thinner leather is usually best because it has less give to the surface and is more forgiving to a beginner. The slight give to the surface and the amount of pressure you use will allow the leather to conform to the slight convex that your bevel has. Now if your using a system like the edge pro that sets perfect bevels a hard surface strop is probably best, these are simple to make as you only need to put compound on a flat piece of wood and get to work.

Stropping is basically sharpening at a very fine level, it takes time to get the feel for it and usually most people make their knife duller before learning how to make it sharper, but once learned your knives will Be sharper than ever and you will wonder why you didn't learn sooner.

When it comes to compounds nothing Beats diamonds and the best is handamerican, their leather is also top of the line. Diamond compounds work faster produce a sharper edge and are NOT messy.
 
just a thought, but any stropping will start to create a convexed edge, which isn't that big of a deal on its own, but is something to consider, given that you use the sharpmaker. I intentionally don't strop my knives because I still want to use stones on them. I do strop my straight razors, and find that if they have had a few sessions on the treated strop, they take a little more time on the stones to re-set the bevel.

I think Gadget has some good points about stropping as I've noticed this on some of my knives . This will be especially noticeable should you strop a hundred or more strokes like some . Its the shoulder of the bevel that starts rounding even when I use very lite pressure . When I don't want to stroke the blade on a stone and I repeatedly strop each week or every other week 30-50 strokes . After two months I can see the rounding when looking at the bevel under 5X . I'm not sure how much this affects the blades cutting ability or is it just in my mind . So, like Gadget sometimes instead of stropping I'll use my Spyderco x-fine ceramic stone to sharpen and refine the bevel . This method may save some of the blade's steel over time . I'm not against stropping just looking at it squarely . DM
 
You want it to round the shoulder, it makes it cut better.
 
just a thought, but any stropping will start to create a convexed edge,

Not if you strop with an EdgePro. :)
I have several strops with different compounds mounted on EdgePro blanks (tripled to match the thickness of the stones) so when I want that absolute perfect, mirror polish, really, really sharp edge, I use those after the 15,000 grit polishing tapes. No rounding of bevels and and edge that will cut your eyeballs if you just look at it! :thumbup:

But for a bit of reality, although stropping on a hanging strop will round off shoulders and edges, it takes a hell of a lot of incorrect stropping to do it. I doubt I give an edge more than 10-15 strokes per side (alternating) when using any of the compounds. There shouldn't be any need for more. You can even see the difference with a high powered loupe. When using a bare strop I might use more, just because I enjoy stropping! But it would take a lot of years of stropping to remove enough metal to convex an edge with a bare strop! This could explain why there are soooo many of Grandpa's and GreatGrandpa's straight razors still in use today, and those guys stropped their razors daily for a lot of years!

Stitchawl
 
Naw, I wouldn't think theres any obsessing here . But rounding/convexing does happen and in less time and it cutting better is another item I'm sure thats not really been tested . DM
 
Naw, I wouldn't think theres any obsessing here .

Certainly not here. :)

But rounding/convexing does happen and in less time

My guess is that if one uses a 6,000 grit SiC compound on a strop, and sits there for an hour or two sliding a knife back and forth, yeah... it will happen and in less time. But why would anyone do that? Or even with a 9,000 grit? Stropping is 'supposed' to be for the finishing touches. I don't get to a strop until I've sharpened to 15,000 with polishing tapes on the EdgePro. Then a couple of swipes on some .05 mic diamond or some 60,000 CrO2, followed by a couple of swipes with a bare strop. It will be a cold day in Heck (Heck is for people who don't believe in Gosh...) before my edges roll over enough to see.

... And Merry Christmas to Everyone! Santa will be here soon so I gotta go to bed!

Stitchawl
 
No, as I'm only using CrO the green @ .5 micron in the manner previously described and I'm noticing rounding/convexing after 2-300 strokes . It happens alot sooner than you think . I never said the edges roll; I said the shoulder of the bevel rounds, the part away, higher than the edge . Its been cold here so perhaps were in that fridged zone . DM ;)
 
300 strokes? Holy crap man.. Im usually good after 10-15.. 10-15 on the green treated rough side, then 10-15 on the smooth side.. I have no problems believing that 300 strokes on chromo will round a shoulder..
 
Anybody have any thoughts about having the shoulders roll, other than looks? Should actually make for an easier cut in stiff materials... maybe.

David, are the shoulders getting removed or just rounded a bit? I can imagine it happening after several hundred strokes, but for me, that would take a year or so, and by that time, the blade has gone back to the EdgePro for an actual sharpening job and having the sharper shoulders restored.

Stitchawl
 
My experience is that stropping makes a huge difference.

Check out the Sharpening Videos on my website. They are the very best videos I have ever seen on the subject. A member here on the forum made them.
 
Ok, some good info. here to process . This whole thing got started when Gadget posted a simple observation about stropping which I agreed with and thought he had a point . Then stated my findings along those lines as well . In this forum it seems hard for people to read exactly whats stated and find common ground . They think your downing the most wonderful thing thats come along since white bread . Far be it to apply alittle mental effort to see something thats there . A good lesson for me . DM
 
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