Ipe stability?

D

Don in SC

Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
27
Anyone ever have Ipe Check/Crack after cutting? I've got some that came out of a cabinet shop. It's 1.5 by 2.5 inch but after cutting some of it into slabs and sanding it smooth I've found some checking and a couple cracks. It well may have had some already as it was rough cut and I did not notice the defects. I was able to sand some of the checking out but if it's going to continue to check it really will not be worth using. Beutifull wood however with Brown,Gold and Copper colors and I really would like to save it if I can.

If picture does not show then here's a link to the worst piece. Picture taken at a angle to show checking.
http://s631.photobucket.com/albums/uu34/donws2/Ipe picture/

DSC04537.jpg


Thaks for your thoughts and help. Donald
 
I've used a lot op Ipe (Brazilian Walnut) on cabinets as well as a few knife handles, and haven't really encountered any checking or cracking. It might have something to do with the dryness of the wood you're using, though. Mine is VERY dry and hard and haven't moved on anything that I've made with it. YMMV, as always.
 
The pieces I got are end pieces and side cut offs from a friend who works at the cabinet shop. These pieces came from some doors they did for a guy. So I'm sure they just cut out the centers of the boards for the doors so they don't have to worry about this kind of problem. I got enough to do a hundred knifes if I wanted to. I plan on saving some becuase I bet some time down the road we'll not beable to get Ipe just like other great woods from the past. I plan on selling/trading some also at the local fun shows to pay for steel and other handle material. But that's only if it's worth working with. If it's to far gone then I may have twenty or third sets of scales insted of 100+.

It's very ichy even sanding it out side today. got some dust on my arms and it was not long before I had to go in the shop and wash off. LOL. guess I'll have to wear long sleaves to sand this stuff with my mask. Still very nice looking even sanded to 220 and a little oil. I'm thinking it will really pop at 400 grit and a couple coats of oil. Donald
 
I usually sand it to at least 600 (usually 1000 on knife handles), and then tru-oil it 4 or 5 coats before waxing and a soft buff. I haven't had any reaction to it from skin contact, though.
 
Don I have used ipe and have found it to be as stable as a brick....tough stuff! Love the "walnut" colors and figure as well. I have an extra piece or two if you want some.

What part of the upstate are you from? My family farm was flooded by a lake up there...beautiful area up that way.

Hank
 
I find it swells horribly... lots of splitting and some cracking on figured pieces. I got the pieces as off cuts from a large deck build. The deck boards are very checked now.

Wear a mask! This is the only wood I have serious respiratory reactions to and I use all the typical knifemaker woods.
 
godogs57. I'm up above Walhalla. Mountain Rest to be exact. Lake Keowee was the lake I bet that killed your fallimy farm. Not alot of good feelings about the place up here. Alot of old timers remember what happen.

wnease the checking is mostly in areas where there is some figure to the wood or a color change. So there could be some internal stress thats causing the cracks I'm going to guess.

Stacy I've seen some nice looking knifes done with Ipe and the price was right. FREE, LOL. Would you mind sharing your thougts on Ipe and why you do not think it OK for handle material?

Thanks for your input guys. Still hopeing someone has a cure for the checking. I'm thinking I may re-do a couple cheap yard sales blades and do the super glue fill the crack thing. Let them sit in the sun on my truck dash broad for awhile. If that does not kill them then it may have split all it's going to. No real money lost that way anyhow.
 
It is too fibrous/splintery for me and tends to split and crack. I didn't like the feel of it on the hand ,either. The dust can also cause some bad reactions on folks.

The fact that it is cheap, readily available, and often free seems in direct contrast to the fact that you seldom see it used....and I have never see it used by a high end maker.
 
Thanks for your observations Stacy. I did read your reply the other day but I'm having trouble now with posting to the web site. For that matter I'm having trouble logging on, and it freezing up also. I'm leaning in your direction toward the Ipe now. After a few days of playing with a couple pieces it really does not like tightly peened pins. Splits with very little force. Also it will have to be well rounded or chips would seem to be a problem. Maybe having it stabilized would help but that does away with the Free part of the equation,lol. Oh well. I can make tomahawk handles or maybe a Ipe and Maple butcher block.
 
I would be cautious using the ipe for a cutting board. I've heard that some people have a bad reaction to it.

I have some flooring scraps that I have used and I don't seem to react to it. Made some scales for my Kershaw Chill with it. Sanded to 600 and some floor wax. I'm happy with them.

My observation is that that the grain pattern looks nice in larger pieces. With smaller pieces (like the Chill scales) you can't really see much grain pattern. Make some thing out of a chunk, see how it works. I made a small sling shot just to see how it is to work with.

Ric
 
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