Agreed, I have a $1500 lab IR gun that I still wouldn't trust on reading hot steel for HT. It is far too complicated to adjust for emittance, and even then you are guessing at the degree of it. An 8 gauge TC and a good reader will tell more accurately what the blade is while in the forge. I use it to check how hot the outside of a HT oven gets, and to check the quench oil tank.
The place that many go wrong in using a TC is that they just stick it in the forge and take a reading. They usually get a number much higher than the blade. The ways to get a more precise reading are:
1) Don't read while the flame is on if possible. Set the TC in the forge right next to the blade and turn off the flame. the blade will not cool much in the few seconds it takes to take the reading.
2) If using the TC while the forge is running ( as in HT), place the TC in a ceramic sleeve. This keeps the direct flames off the TC and simulates an object roughly similar to the blade. Place it next to the blade if possible, or at least in the same part of the forge as the blade. Sheathed TCs read a bit slower to temperature changes, but are more accurate in readings.
3) Use a heavy gauge TC - 8 gauge ( 1/8") is what you need. If using an unsheathed TC, a stainless clad one will last longer.
4) Soak the forge well before taking any readings. Run your forge at a consistent temperature for 15 minutes ( or longer) before taking readings or doing HT. The whole interior of the forge needs to be at the same temperature for an accurate reading - blade, TC, refractory. Until they are all fully soaked to equalization, you are reading whichever is the highest. Once fully soaked and the flame adjusted for maintaining a steady temperature, the sheathed TC will be reading the same as the blade within a few degrees. Flipping the flame off for 10-15 seconds will not make much change, as the entire chamber is maintaining the heat.