Ironwood Issues

tsavickas36

tsavickas36

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I am sure all the experienced bladesmiths will have a simple answer for me so I thought I would post to gain some feedback. I absolutely love the look of a finished ironwood handle. I have completed a chopper and a slipjoint with ironwood so far.
I had a group of 20 kids over a couple weeks ago for a junior deer camp and as part of that gave them all a knife to put a handle of their choice on and take home. As part of that I had three select Ironwood as their handle of choice.
It was an absolute bear to sand and cut. I burnt up a bandsaw blade and ruined multiple 36 grain and 80 grain belts trying to shape it for them.
Does anyone have any advice on the best way to work with Ironwood and not tear up everything you own? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Here are a couple of pictures of the knives I was successful completing.
 

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Are your tools (Belt sander esp) variable speed? You'll need to grind at a low speed for harder woods like this. Try to keep the wood cool by not giving a large amount of pressure as to not ruin the wood and the belt.
 
I assume it is Desert Ironwood.
DI has a dense resin and lots of silica, so it both resists abrasion/cutting and also gums up the abrasive or sawblade. Regular ironwood works similar, but is a different tree.

0) If your equipment isn't VS, you would be best to do DI by hand.
1) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't let the wood get hot.
2) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Feed slowly.
3) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't push harder to make it cut/grind.

4) The bandsaw - Use a fairly coarse and sharp blade. A 2/3 skip-tooth carbide tipped Lenox blade would be my blade of choice, but any good wood blade should work. Clean off the sawblade regularly with a wire brush. Run the saw at its slowest setting. Feed the wood slowly, allowing time for the chips and resin to clear.
I have found a scroll saw also cuts DI well. Again, if it is variable speed, it works better.

5) The grinder - Run the grinder VERY slow. Don't push hard. Clean the belt frequently with a rubber eraser stick or it will clog and glaze/burn. Contrary to logic, a 100-120 belt will grind the wood better than a 36 grit belt. Also, use the right belt. For wood you want a zirconia or AO belt. You will waste or ruin your Blaze and Cubitron belts on wood.

6) Hand tools like rasps and big files work well. Card them often. Hand sanding is the best choice after rough shaping. you can go up te grots to as fine as you want. I usually do DI to 400 or 800.

7) Buffing - DI buffs to a high polish from as low as 400 grit. Use a good fine polish, like matchless pink, load a loose cotton buffing wheel well, and use moderate to light pressure. Buff in short quick, passes, not long hard passes, or it will get hot. If it feels hot, set it aside for a few minutes to cool. Getting it too hot will make it crack ... sometimes immediately ... sometimes much later on.
 
I've had a different experience, at least as far as shaping with belts. I would use a fresh 36 grit Norton ceramic belt, run it at least medium speed and use a relatively light touch. I can rough shape wood that way very quickly without much heat.
 
Linus Knives said:
Are your tools (Belt sander esp) variable speed? You'll need to grind at a low speed for harder woods like this. Try to keep the wood cool by not giving a large amount of pressure as to not ruin the wood and the belt.
Click to expand...
I do have a VFD on the Grizzly 2x42. I will try to have more patience and just take my time with it. Thanks for the advice.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I assume it is Desert Ironwood.
DI has a dense resin and lots of silica, so it both resists abrasion/cutting and also gums up the abrasive or sawblade. Regular ironwood works similar, but is a different tree.

0) If your equipment isn't VS, you would be best to do DI by hand.
1) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't let the wood get hot.
2) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Feed slowly.
3) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't push harder to make it cut/grind.

4) The bandsaw - Use a fairly coarse and sharp blade. A 2/3 skip-tooth carbide tipped Lenox blade would be my blade of choice, but any good wood blade should work. Clean off the sawblade regularly with a wire brush. Run the saw at its slowest setting. Feed the wood slowly, allowing time for the chips and resin to clear.
I have found a scroll saw also cuts DI well. Again, if it is variable speed, it works better.

5) The grinder - Run the grinder VERY slow. Don't push hard. Clean the belt frequently with a rubber eraser stick or it will clog and glaze/burn. Contrary to logic, a 100-120 belt will grind the wood better than a 36 grit belt. Also, use the right belt. For wood you want a zirconia or AO belt. You will waste or ruin your Blaze and Cubitron belts on wood.

6) Hand tools like rasps and big files work well. Card them often. Hand sanding is the best choice after rough shaping. you can go up te grots to as fine as you want. I usually do DI to 400 or 800.

7) Buffing - DI buffs to a high polish from as low as 400 grit. Use a good fine polish, like matchless pink, load a loose cotton buffing wheel well, and use moderate to light pressure. Buff in short quick, passes, not long hard passes, or it will get hot. If it feels hot, set it aside for a few minutes to cool. Getting it too hot will make it crack ... sometimes immediately ... sometimes much later on.
Click to expand...
Thanks as always for your thorough guidance. I have a few coming up that I would like to use it again so will try your suggestions.

Do you know a good supplier for scales that are not as thick? Everything I have purchased in the past is very thick and requires a lot of sanding for smaller handles. Thanks in advance.
 
Get with Ben at Greenberg Woods. He will cut to your size often.
If you buy larger blocks elsewhere, just re-cut them into two sets of scales.
 
I found ceramic to not be a good medium for DIW. I use 50 grit AP...fresh and sharp or it will burn. Still smells like cat piss...but grinds fine.
 
I just saw Stacy pretty much already said that...
 
In the end, desert ironwood sure is beautiful. I have a 22" desert ironwood NY-style billy I purchased from Arizona Ironwood, and it is simply beautiful wood, in my humble opinion.
 
I have used AZ Ironwood for years as my supplier of DI. They have scales and blocks. Ironwood is certainly worth the effort and you've received a lot of good info here. You will find what will work for you.
 
Some desert ironwood scales I purchased from AZ Ironwood for a project I hoped to complete before an unfortunate turn in my health.

IMG-2060.jpg
 
I have used a lot of ironwood. For me if my bandsaw and abrasive belts can cut micarta they will work for Ironwood.
Don't forget to use a respirator.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I assume it is Desert Ironwood.
DI has a dense resin and lots of silica, so it both resists abrasion/cutting and also gums up the abrasive or sawblade. Regular ironwood works similar, but is a different tree.

0) If your equipment isn't VS, you would be best to do DI by hand.
1) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't let the wood get hot.
2) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Feed slowly.
3) The belts and cutting tools must run slow. Don't push harder to make it cut/grind.

4) The bandsaw - Use a fairly coarse and sharp blade. A 2/3 skip-tooth carbide tipped Lenox blade would be my blade of choice, but any good wood blade should work. Clean off the sawblade regularly with a wire brush. Run the saw at its slowest setting. Feed the wood slowly, allowing time for the chips and resin to clear.
I have found a scroll saw also cuts DI well. Again, if it is variable speed, it works better.

5) The grinder - Run the grinder VERY slow. Don't push hard. Clean the belt frequently with a rubber eraser stick or it will clog and glaze/burn. Contrary to logic, a 100-120 belt will grind the wood better than a 36 grit belt. Also, use the right belt. For wood you want a zirconia or AO belt. You will waste or ruin your Blaze and Cubitron belts on wood.

6) Hand tools like rasps and big files work well. Card them often. Hand sanding is the best choice after rough shaping. you can go up te grots to as fine as you want. I usually do DI to 400 or 800.

7) Buffing - DI buffs to a high polish from as low as 400 grit. Use a good fine polish, like matchless pink, load a loose cotton buffing wheel well, and use moderate to light pressure. Buff in short quick, passes, not long hard passes, or it will get hot. If it feels hot, set it aside for a few minutes to cool. Getting it too hot will make it crack ... sometimes immediately ... sometimes much later on.
Click to expand...
Stacy sorry for the multiple questions, can you provide a source for Matchless Pink? My google searching is not coming up with anything. Thanks.
 
tsavickas36 said:
Stacy sorry for the multiple questions, can you provide a source for Matchless Pink? My google searching is not coming up with anything. Thanks.
Click to expand...
popsknife.supplies

Osborn (FKA Matchless) Buffing Compounds

A-6 Black: fast cut BS5118 / 11B81 Green/Gray: medium cut and nice finish BC4431 / HF1 White: mirror finish Pink - Scratchless NOTE - The Green/Gray bar varies from batch to batch in color. Some looks like the normal green and some looks a little more towards gray.
popsknife.supplies

this might be the one
 
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