Is 3/16" a good thickness for a gladius?

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Apr 17, 2010
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I've never handled a gladius other than Cold Steel's Gladius machete. Would 3/16" steel be a good thickness to make one out of?
 
I think that's what I made mine out of, if I recall correctly. It's out getting some pants right now. Makes for a surprisingly light blade, but still plenty durable. I need to grind out another one of those. I'd say it's about as thin as I'd want to go though.
 
I think that's what I made mine out of, if I recall correctly. It's out getting some pants right now. Makes for a surprisingly light blade, but still plenty durable. I need to grind out another one of those. I'd say it's about as thin as I'd want to go though.

What are the approximate measurements on the profile you used? I'm curious to see what has worked for others. I want to make a "modern spatha" eventually as well.
 
Yeah, it's flat ground on either side, and fullered in the middle.

20120327_165456.jpg
 
I'm thinking of making mine with a Qama style grip and guard, and more of a Spatha length. Did you use a surface grinder or milling machine to do the fullers? I've never made a blade with a fuller yet.
 
CF, i still think that's the coolest blade you've made to date. If i could have gotten it for the price of the Kuk you made me, i'd have bought it long ago... it's AWESOME
 
I'm definitely pretty happy with it. Going to make a 5160 version next, once I get that one back. We can talk about the gladius, if you want it. It's out getting kydexed right now.
 
I'm too brokified right now to buy anymore knives...

Have you seen what i just got myself over in the Busse forum? I iz poor :(

Sent you the last of my free cash this weekend.
 
If you start with 3/16's stock, you will end up with a thin blade, maybe about 1/8th or so, not too thin but thinner than I personally like. I'd start with 1/4" barstock, in order to get 3/16th's thickness.
 
I think you could go thinner than 3/16 for better cutting efficiency, speed, agility.... this from a guy who occasionally makes sword-ish blades 5/8" thick!

Thicker would be okay too if you grind most of it off
 
Thin is agile, thick is touch

pick your poison...

Here's my opinion. if you want a WEAPON, you don't want a fatty. A dedicated weapon should be fast.

If you want a multi-use tool that might be used to pry, chop wood, baton through things, or other utility tasks, you will want a thicker stock tool. It will still be quite able to double as a weapon, but will be less well suited to the task

The vast majority of "tactical gladius" type tools fit the second category. Gage, Busse etc
 
I agree thin is faster, and probably a better cutter too. But, I like a distal grind, where the width at the guard ranges anywhere fron 1/4 to 3/16's of an inch, with the tip grind down to a thin, almost fillet point. Looks cool, and handles well. But, eaxh to his own.
 
I actually prefer more the opposite. Thinner blade for quick handling and good slicy cuts, but a thicker tip for penetration power and durability on the all-important thrust.
 
I found this forum page because the index page said Gladius and then someone mentioned 5160. I started my first Gladius (type) blade with a 22 inch length of 1/4 inch 5160, worked it down like a big Bowie-style blade and then looked at my Khukri. What transpired - is NOT what I had originally expected but it turned into a massively useful tool.(and not too ugly , I don't think) It is 1-7/8 at the widest point, necks down to 1-1/4 inch, at the narrow point and has a full 13 inches of blade. Weighs in at a pound and a half on the nose. Not exactly an EDC but I don't leave home without it. I will get a picture up here later today.Trying to use up 120 odd pieces of 5160 ,1/4 x 2 x 32 long has become a sideline hobby since the day my hairball friend walked in and said, "Hey. I got some steel for ya. Oh, I need a hunnert bucks for it too.". A spring shop went under and all these pieces had been precut for leaf springs. I'm just glad they didn't have the hole punched in the middle ...
 
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