Is a knife with a flush spring at half stop a sign of quality?

R

robertj298

Joined
Mar 7, 2014
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I probably have 10 knives that have half stops. Out of the 10 3 have
springs that are flush at half stop. One GEC #73 and 2 Queens made
Winchesters from the late 80s one slim trapper and one Moose pattern.
None of my case knives have flush springs.
 
Honestly I think the whole flush at halfstops is blown way out of proportion by collectors. If you had a knife that had a wobbly blade,poorly ground un tempered blade, mismatched rough covers, poorly fitted bolsters, proud pins, but by golly the spring is flush at halfstop would you call it a quality knife? Not picking on the OP just saying in general I'd look to OVERALL quality.I don't see feeling a knife is poorly made because a spring is proud in a position you would never actually use it in. Sure its a nice touch, but not an end all be all its gotta have it feature to me.
 
- most of the custom slippies I have are flush if they have a half stop, so too some of the better production models.

However, perhaps a bit harsh to pass over some that don't have this feature, as there is often class, fit n finish in some of the others as well.

In general though, would suggest it is a sign of quality.

One custom folder maker I know, he usually takes apart a folder approx 30 times before he's happy with the tang, fit n finish...
 
If you get it, it's clearly desirable but it should not overshadow other aspects of the knife's aesthetics or build quality.

Another reason why half-stops are irrelevant ;) when confronted by smooth opening cam tang construction.

Some GECs are like this, forget which, most Customs have it, CASE Swaybacks have it and the current Forum Knife from Viper sports it.

It's a sign of one quality, no more.
 
I have some with half stops that are flush, and some almost so, when the blade is half closed.
I don't generally use a blade in that position ... unless its a screwdriver or punch/awl blade, so I don't worry about it.

By the way, Cost does not determine flush or not.
The master blade on my GEC 852211 Harness Jack is an "almost so" flush when half open/closed. (it is flush when fully open and fully closed.) Most of my Rough Ryder and offshore Marbles with half stops are flush; on all two or three blades. A couple are "almost's", on one or more blades. Needless to say, the GEC cost/"is worth" considerably more than the Rough Ryder and Marbles I have.

Some may disagree with me, and most here will probably not like my saying so, but my Rough Ryder, Marbles, Taylor Hammer Brand, and BTI Schrade/Old Timer are at least equal in over-all quality/fit/finish and walk n' talk, to my Case, GEC, and pre-bankruptcy Schrade/Old Timer/Ulster/Camillus knives.

Please note: My GEC, Case and pre-2004 Schrade products were made by "humans"; not "gods". None are "perfect", nor are any of my overseas made knives. They all have minor "cosmetic" issues such as need a bright light to find them gaps between springs and liners, for example.
I honestly don't think I've ever seen a "perfect" knife, fixed blade or folding. There's always some minor nit-picking "defect" to be found, if you look hard enough. regardless of maker/brand, era it was made, and where it was made.
 
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I bought a Case LT1011 SS Hawkbill on a whim at Lowe's a few years ago. Very simple knife in retail plastic clamshell packaging, with a lightweight zytel handle - I paid maybe $22 or so for it. Didn't expect to even look for it, but I noticed the spring was flush at all three positions (closed, half-stop, full-open). I think it's the only square-tang folder I've ever seen that's flush in every position. And no blade play either. Whatever process Case used to produce it, they got it impressively right.
 
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To me it has nothing to do with quality and more aligns with being obsessive..... All I get out of it is (1) the knife maker got lucky and ended up a flush spring at half stop or (2) the knife maker charged me to fiddle with the knife long enough to end up with a flush spring...... Either way it is not an indicator, to me, of anything...
 
Flush springs, squared ends, and sunken joints are, to me, the signs of a superior design. If one knife in a batch has them and the others don't it's a fit and finish issue (quality control). It every knife of that pattern from a maker has them that's superior quality control and design.
 
eisman said:
Flush springs, squared ends, and sunken joints are, to me, the signs of a superior design. If one knife in a batch has them and the others don't it's a fit and finish issue (quality control). It every knife of that pattern from a maker has them that's superior quality control and design.
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Consistency is dependent on the tolerances called out by the designer..... If the designer calls for +/- .015, then that is what manufacturing will machine the parts to and what QC will inspect to......
 
Like most here a flush half stop for me is icing on the cake of an already nice knife, it seems to be more a sign of attention to detail than high quality (I know that's kind of splitting hairs). More of the step from great to greater. I'm not even sure if a non flush half stop would bother me on a higher end custom if it wasn't something I discussed with the maker. Honestly it isn't even something I paid attention to until I started lurking about here, kind of like not even knowing that I liked half stops over a cam tang. I definitely wouldn't let a proud half stop keep me from picking up a knife that I found attractive...
 
Will Power said:
Another reason why half-stops are irrelevant ;) when confronted by smooth opening cam tang construction.
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Nooooo! I think the constant darkness is messing with your perception...:p
While I appreciate a quality knife of any kind, I have to say that personally I do prefer the half stop.
 
Its nice I guess if you use your knife at half stop alot? Im not sure why you would though lol. I dont see why it matters. Personally, I dont even like half stops. It wont stop me from using a knife but it kind of gets on my nerves and it makes use less safe in my opinion since I open a knife a lot more than I cut with the back of the blade... Opening a knife that snaps at 2 spots all herky jerky is a little scary on some of them (looking at you GEC) compared to just a standard smooth opening.
 
veitsi_poika said:
Seems like just another thing to be disappointed about, I get enough of that in any given day :D I like throwing a good edge on my knives and cutting stuff. For show and tell I just use this knife. ;)

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Sounds about right to me, I never even realized this was a thing and doubt I even have a single knife with this trait to it.

My biggest issue is a blade that doesn't open square to the back spring, canted blades are a big eyesore

There are other things to look for, but I'm already looking for enough things and don't need to add another to the list.
 
Hickory n steel said:
My biggest issue is a blade that doesn't open square to the back spring, canted blades are a big eyesore
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I agree, I have even fixed some that didn't open "far enough" including some 70s Case knives I have. With some patterns you can file the shoulder of the tang with it in the knife,but like filing the kick go slow and remove little at a time.
wVyGzNE.jpg

This Queen made Ontario demo knife was canted downward, to such a degree I couldn't stand it.I filed the shoulder of the blade and because how rounded this pattern is with the blade half open, I could also file the end of the spring a bit. Jewelers/needle files are your friend :thumbsup:
 
Misplaced Hillbilly said:
I agree, I have even fixed some that didn't open "far enough" including some 70s Case knives I have. With some patterns you can file the shoulder of the tang with it in the knife,but like filing the kick go slow and remove little at a time.
wVyGzNE.jpg

This Queen made Ontario demo knife was canted downward, to such a degree I couldn't stand it.I filed the shoulder of the blade and because how rounded this pattern is with the blade half open, I could also file the end of the spring a bit. Jewelers/needle files are your friend :thumbsup:
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Done it many times, a dremel works great.
 
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