is a little edge deformation normal in a blade this size?

savagesicslayer

savagesicslayer

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I just bought a WW2 18" long and almost 1/2" thick form a member here.I've been chopping with it for 2 days now and I noticed a little denting on the edge.Is this normal for this type of blade?I really love this kukri as it's my first real one and it chops like nothing I've ever seen.I like big heavy knives for woods work and this one definitely qualifies.
 
Pics of the problem might help.

These blades get slammed into pretty hard stuff.... I've managed to wave the edge on a couple of blades, but nothing that really kept them from doing the job.

Andy
 
Like AC says depends on how bad.

I have had one waver and filed the waver out and then resharpened and no further damage.

Then I've had a couple that I sent back for the problem.

Really depends on how bad and where.

On some khuks the really hardened spot is too small or in the wrong place. This could be your problem as the WW2 has a long flat cutting edge and if the tempered area is too small it would be easy in the course of normal chopping to drift back off of the hardened zone.

On the other hand if you are getting bending back where the blade curves it's normal cause that area is usually really soft.

On some the steel right near the edge is soft and then if you sharpen it back a little it is harder.

Now that I have totally confused you do you have any pics:D
 
Like others have said, it depends on where it is and how bad it is. A picture is worth a thousand words. :)
 
I'm having problems getting pics of the edge due to the fact it's too shiny for my flash and it blinds my cam.it's not too bad.visible,but it doesn't stop it from cutting.I took it down into the basement and chopped a 6" block of wood with no problem.I'm not worried about the knife failing I was curious if this is normal behavior for this type of knife.
 
how far back is the ding? the blades are hardened/tempered by heating them then cooling the edge with a teapot of boiling water, so results depend on the skill of the kami and a bit of luck. the tip is usually not hardened much to keep it from snapping if it hits a rock, the inside, concave curve is usually not hard, only the 'sweet spot' in the convex part of the blade where you normally strike is hardened.

a pic of the blade with a magic marker indicating the location/extent may show up better. some people have found that the steel is actually a bit harder under the 'skin' and sharpening out small dings can improve the hardness. steeling the edge with the chackma can straighten out small dings & harden the edge. the kamis do however sometimes get it wrong, especially around the holidays. if it's a large deformed area that cannot be steeled or sharpened out, you may want to have a word with the boss lady.

people here are fond of etching the blades with vinegar or lemon/lime juice (from fruit, not bottled) which shows the heat treated area & also makes the blade look cool.
 
savagesicslayer said:
I'm having problems getting pics of the edge due to the fact it's too shiny for my flash and it blinds my cam.it's not too bad.visible,but it doesn't stop it from cutting.I took it down into the basement and chopped a 6" block of wood with no problem.I'm not worried about the knife failing I was curious if this is normal behavior for this type of knife.
Click to expand...

Depends on sharpening or bevel profile as well.

To get clear photos, turn off the flash, & take photos outside when cloudy or near a window but not in direct sunlight.

Spiral
 
Spiral might be on to something here, as usual:)

It might be that the edge just needs a proper convexing to gain a little strength. Also, sometimes the first 2 or 3 "layers" of steel at the edge are not as hard as the one underneath them.

Pics would really be helpful. However, I know the frustration of dealing with cams at times;)

I would say that if it is not affecting performance and it doesn't bother you, then live and let live. The knife certainly shouldn't fail you:thumbup:
 
Yes, how deep, and what kind of edge is on the blade, and where on the blade. The tip area and area towards bolster used to be left soft. The tip area used to be left softer to prevent a dangerous injury- metal flying off when the forward tip catches the ground. I don't know about HI khuks anymore- people demanded a full length hardening and they got it with the newer blades. How old is this khuk?
It's also worth noting the guarrentee does not apply to second hand owners. Owners choice.


munk
 
Ok the explanation about the forward part of the blade not being too hard to avoid shattering on accidental impacts makes perfect sense.It is the 1/4 of the blade near the tip that has the dents.
I'm very new to this type of knife so I'm really in the dark about how they work.I really like the design though and the history of these knives is really interesting.My grandmother was the first to tell me about the Ghurkas.She met some in World War 2 in England.She said they were very handsome blokes who were quiet and respectful and carried really big curved knives.I didn't think much of it at the time but now I think it's pretty cool.
Here's a pic of the edge as best as I could take.The major dent is in the center of the pic.
 

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That looks like something you could easily "steel" out. To my old eyes, in any case. If you got a decently hard chakma, you could use that, else a butcher's steel. Worst case: file.
 
That part is usually soft. just either pound it even and then sharpen it or file it out. I wouldn't worry about it.:thumbup:
 
oh, that's not bad at all.

steel it out, sharpen it up.

i'm convinced that bent edges i've managed are the result of too much force and not sharp enough edge. i hammer them out, and sharpen them up. hammering can give you some work hardening supposedly :) the lesson for me: don't use dull tools.

my favorite GRS has a decent chip/nick in the edge. definitely not pretty, and such it won't come out for many sharpenings. must've got a rock embedded in the wood. oh well, it happens :)

bladite
 
I wouldn't repair it to uniform and perfect line. Why? It'll just happen again. I repair those dents or small chips near the tip to get that area work-useful again. Not that I direct much use towards the tip, but occasionally you're hacking at a branch and that may be the only part of the tool that reaches.

munk
 
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