Is a puuko just a small machete?

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me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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Am I missing something, or is it basically a relatively thin piece of steel, with an edge ground on it somewhere in the 7-10 degrees per side range? Is the geometry more complex? I've seen some where the tip appears to be ground at a higher angle, I presume for strength. Granted, I would expect machetes to be ground to higher angles, like 15-20 degrees per side, but when you compare the two, they seem the same, except for size.
 
It's a traditional Finnish pattern. Some have fullers. Some have a diamond cross-section. Some are convexed. I have not seen one flat ground with a small secondary bevel. The proportions are all wrong for the comparison -- the handle is often longer than the blade. 4" blade is long for a puukko.

Now the Saami leuku could be compared to the machete -- and it's used like a small machete. http://outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?page=article&id_article=35

ED: Here's another thread on leuku: http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49387
 
The question relates more to the grind style than use. The diamond ones sound really interesting. Are they double edged, or do they have a small flat on top? I've not seen much about the convexed ones either. Is the convexing done with such a large radius that they would appear flat unless put against a straight edge? Perhaps the leuku is what I was thinking of, as they seem to be more the size I had in mind, 6"-7" blades. Also, any idea how to grind one without ruining the heat treatment? That wide bevel and thin edge gets challenging I imagine.
 
If you followed the links, you saw that the grind sytle of a leuku is comparable to a machete. My point about use is that form follows function.

The diamond cross-sectioned ones I have are all by Iisakki. The typical specs are 3.25" - 3.5" long x 9/16-5/8" wide by .123"-.125" thick at the thickest -- with a fuller at the midline and a convex bevel you can see without a straightedge. A flat on top. That's where the thumb goes.

If you are talking about a power grinder, you dip the blade in water BEFORE it gets sizzling hot and don't use dull belts. But a coarse diamond sharpener removes lots of steel fairly fast.

Working machetes have a secondary bevel more obtuse than the angle of the flat sides - for me, preferably convexed. It is, after all, a cross between a cutting tool and an impact tool. Can't have the edge too thin in fairly soft steel or you'll fold it a lot.
 
Whats the maximum thickness you've seen for a leuku? I've got some 3/16 or 5/32 stock I may try, if I can manage not to burn the edge. Its already hardened. I also have some 0.50" M2 that I want to try a 4-5 inch fixed blade, and I dont think I'll have to worry about over heating the M2. Its already hardened as well. Wife's out of town tomorrow, so maybe I can have some shop time.
 
I have four, and a touch over 1/8" -- maybe 9/64" -- is the max thickness.

The first place to overheat is likely to be where the steel is (getting) thinnest. In fact, it is often the case that a knife displays brittleness that disappears when the edge is taken back some. A heat sink - supplied by thick stock -- only goes so far in preventing overheating
 
I imagine a wet grinder is needed to grind the full primary bevel without overheating at least occasionally. Hopefully I'll try the M2 tonight.
 
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