Is A2 stainless?

B

bchan77

Joined
Dec 6, 2007
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Hello all, I am not familiar with this steel used by Bark River. Is it a stainless steel, any special care required in a damp environment? Thanks!
 
I've had my Bark River Bravo-1 get some light rust after carrying it on a hike through the snow, using it on wet wood, dropping it in snow several times and then putting it away wet. The spot it rusted (that I found a few weeks later) was very small and shallow, it was easily taken off with 1000 grit sandpaper in about 30 seconds. So I'd either put a patina on it to help protect it, maybe some tuf-glide protectant or both, and just make sure its dry when you put it away, I'd say it would do fine in wet environments as long as you're not using it as a salt water fishing knife.
 
bchan77 said:
Thanks both, so it's not too suitable in damp wildnerness, is it?
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It seems that a great number of high quality camping and bushcraft style knives are made of A2. It's because of it's overall toughness and ability to take and hold a great edge. Think about all the knvies made of 1095 steel, it is also a rust magnet, but the properties it exhibits (toughness, razor sharp edge, etc. all with proper heat treatment), makes it a clear choice for a specific task. If you are able to properly take care of a knife, and maintain it then A2 is an excellent choice.
 
bchan77 said:
Thanks both, so it's not too suitable in damp wildnerness, is it?
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sure it's suitable for the damp outdoors. just wipe it clean and dry after use. you could put a light coat of oil/dry film lube on the blade to protect it, or do nothing and let it patina.
 
bchan77 said:
Thanks both, so it's not too suitable in damp wildnerness, is it?
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I mean this in a friendly way, but I have to ask: you aren't serious, are you? What do you think mankind did between the bronze age and the advent of high quality stainless cutlery steels in the 1990s?
 
My only concern is, when you are in damp wilderness you don't always have oil in hand to coat the blade. Which is a better way to protect, to let it patina naturally or to put a forced patina beforehand? Obviously I don't have experience with this steel, pardon my ignorance.
 
Let's take a minute to put things into perspective here. Unless you are going into the wilderness for months at a time, you can most certainly plan for your trip, include the proper supplies to maintain your tools. Right? There are millions of knives made out of carbon steel/tool steel, if it was that impossible to own and use, they would not be selling that many, and that steel would not be as popular as it is. Protect your knife by polishing it with some wax, or throw some mustard on it for 30 minutes at a time, and see how it develops after a few coatings. This kind of thing does not need to be so difficult and overanalyzed. ;)
 
A2 takes an awesome edge and is a pleasure to sharpen. It almost seems like it wants to be sharpened. I would choose it over the Bark River stainless steels for use in any environment.
 
My experience with A2 (in a humid tropical environment) is that it doesn't rust as easy as 1095, O1 etc. It doesn't like salt water or blood and both will stain the blade very quickily.
 
No its not
Just dry it if it gets wet ora dirty and you ll be fine
Have 4 in A2, use them all, no rust after a lo of use in both winter and summer

Maxx
 
Keep it oiled and it will do just fine. Through use it will develop a patina that actually protects against rust.
 
I have had a Bravo One in A2 for a few years now in different weather with no rust. Just take care of your tools. If you do neglect it, Mike will make it look like new for the cost of shipping.

There seems to be too much preoccupation with the "horror" of corrosion. Go to the British Museum and observe all the ancient carbon steel weapons that are still in excellent condition. We will all be dust before any A2 Bravo One disintegrates in someone's sock drawer :)
 
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