Is ATS-55 steel in production?

SkagSig40

SkagSig40

Joined
Feb 1, 2001
Messages
2,671
I heard that ATS-55 was not being produced anymore. Is this true and if so what steel is replacing it? I bought a SS Dragonfly not to long ago and it is ATS-55.
I really like my Dragonfly but it will not hold and edge at all! My 440A blades stay sharp much longer so I'm starting to think that I might have a blade that got a bad heat treat? What do you guys think of this steel?
 
Recently, Spyderco began phasing in VG-10 as a replacement steel for ATS-55. I believe that there are still a few models being produced using ATS-55 whilst the steel blanks of this type are being used up.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with your knife, that is most uncharacteristic performance for ATS-55, in my experience. Perhaps you should send the knife to the factory warranty and repair department to have it checked out.

Best wishes, Jeff/1911.
 
I'm fairly fine with ATS 55, quite easy to keep it sharp, and I haven't got any rust problems.
As stated already, VG-10 is acting like a replacement as ATS 55, and for some, this is a welcomed change because there are a couple of bad ATS55 blades out there that make it very prone to rusting and various strange behaviour.
I however have a little problem with my Renegade, which is made with Gin-1 steel. Near the tip, and somehow, there are tiny chips on the edge, and with just the sharpmaker (I don't dare to use the benchstones cause I ain't good at it), it would've taken forever to fix it up. So I've sented to Spyderco and they might figure why that blade is having tiny chips near the tip.
 
ATS-55 is a good steel, as long as you can get over VG-10.

55 takes a decent edge, and holds it against boxes for about a week(with PE)(about 50-60 a night). I modified my edge on the SS 'Fly PE ATS-55 that I bought 20 aug '01.. I have a convex grind, with a slightly tanto'ed tip. Sweet edge on that sucker, and haven't touched it up in a while.
 
I was using a cardboard wheel on my grinder motor that spins at 3,450 rpm to sharpen my knives and I never had trouble with it but it is now starting to wear out and I'm wondering if maybe it was not taking off the wiredge/burr anymore? It could not see or feel it and the edge looked polished up and would cut hair off my arm like a razor but when I cut just ONE cardboard box open it would be compleetly dull! Maybe the wheel was leaving on a micro wire edge that I could not see and that is causing it to go dull right away?
I now have a shaving sharp edge on the Dragonfly that I put on with the shaprmaker 204 so I'll find out soon how this edge holds up. If it goes dull right away I think I'll send it in to have it looked at. I'll let you know how it goes!
 
Caution on those cardboard sharpening wheels at 3450rpm. They heat up the thin edges on knives very quickly and possibly you have exceeded the tempering temperature and the edge is now soft. That could be a reason for the lack of edge holding in use.

Many woodcarvers are having the same problem with their knives and chisels on this type of wheel.

Regards,
FK
 
I don't think I ever got the blade very hot. I never got the blade hot enough so that I could not touch it. How hot would I have to get the blade to ruin the temper? I ran it back and forth a few times per side and tested the edge to see if it was sharp yet and that is all. I sure hope that little bit could not ruin the temper.:confused:
 
You are O'K with the described technique. The possibility exists that the main (heavy thickness) on the blade could be cool in temperature while the thin edge gets very hot. One common sign is blue color on the edge when the tempering temperature is exceeded, this is common on carbon steels but not all stainless show the color.

Bob Dozier makes excellent knives in D2 steel and he cautions his customers against using the cardboard/paper wheels for sharpening.

You most likely have the wire edge breaking away problem with your quick sharpness loss. Try hand stropping on a piece of hard leather charged with your fine abrasive compound. Another technique for removing the wire edge is a very fine ceramic or diamond hone, hand strop with alternating sides and very very light pressure.

Let us know what you discover.

Regards,
FK
 
It's impossible to tell without seeing the knife up close under a loupe if he's taken the temper out of the steel on that card board wheel, but sad as it may be, that really does sound like your problem my friend.
Even using just buffing compound and a muslin wheel you can't let that edge even hardly make contact as it will build heat very fast.
I have quite a few in ATS-55 and they all exhibit great edge retention, not as much as the queen of them all VG-10 but still long lasting.
You may wanna try this. on a hone, not a wheel back bevel the edge past 20 degrees then do your final honing at around 30, removing most of the current edge.
If it were mine i'd call Mike @ SFO warranty and ask him 1st before i did anything more. Ron
 
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