Is candle wax enough for waterproofing a leather sheath?

[y53p]

Is it the same as using beeswax or snoseal or do these products actually have an edge over regular molten candle wax?

 

[kobold]

I like to start with neatsfoot oil and then treat the leather with something like these:
(might need a hair dryer or heat gun to apply smoothly)

Beeswax / linseed oil 1/2 : 1/2

Beeswax / linseed oil / turpentine 1/3 : 1/3 : 1/3

Greenland wax:

 

[chalby]

Is it the same as using beeswax or snoseal or do these products actually have an edge over regular molten candle wax?

Using melted wax will work somewhat but once it has cooled/dried it's likely to crack if the leather is bent or whatever.

As kobold said you are best using a mix of wax and a drying oil. There are plenty of mixtures out there.

1/3 beeswax, 1/3 paraffin(candle wax), 1/3 boiled linseed oil will result in a more durable coating

1/2 wax, 1/2 oil will result in a more supple coating that will need to be reapplied more often (every 6months or year YMMV)

A lot of people add turps which will help with applying it and is a mold inhibitor. You can substitute the boiled linseed oil for something like walnut oil(which is a drying oil) if you want it to be more non-toxic or food safe, but it will take longer to dry. Beeswax is more supple but isn't as durable as paraffin which is why a lot of people use a mix of both. Paraffin tends to be a bit brittle and prone to cracks but you can use it if you get the mixture right.

Once the mixture is applied, I like to put the sheath or whatever in the oven at 70C(~150-160F) for 10-15 minutes or so to melt it all in and then sit it in the sun for the rest of the day to dry. There are plenty of ways to do it.

 

[Cementite]

I use a double boiler to melt a whole bunch of different things together for coating boots, knife sheaths, knives, etc...possible ingredients include:
1. The wax used in cheap ($1-$2) toilet gasket rings ... this is a greasy, soft, sticky wax containing (I believe) beeswax ... good stuff.
2. Coconut oil
3. Petrolatum (vaseline)
4. Paraffin wax
5. USP Mineral Oil (sold as a laxative)
6. Kerosene as a thinner/vehicle

For a "summer mixture" I err on the side of the more-solid ingredients such as paraffin and beeswax; for a "winter mixture" I err on the side of the more liquid ingredients such as mineral oil and coconut oil...

To fight mold, I will sometimes (before waterproofing) apply a strong solution of borax and water to the leather, then let it dry, then apply the oil/wax/waterproofing material.

If I have any trouble getting the stuff to sink in/absorb into the leather, I will judiciously use a heat gun, but you have to be real careful around stitch lines and seams with a heat gun...

 

[Alberta Ed]

SnowSeal is basically beeswax with a solvent that dissipates after you apply it. I've used it for years. It doesn't soften the leather like oils.

 

[beeinak]

I spray my boots, gloves and sheaths with Obenaufs silicone waterproofer spray, let it dry and then use Sno Seal or Skidmore’s beeswax (especially over seams) and warm with a heat gun just enough to liquify and rub it in. Leather gloves I heat in the oven at 200 for 2-3 min then rub product in. Works well for winter wet.

 

[DocJD]

I use :

Fiebing's Snow Proof​

I soften it with a hair dryer and apply generously to leather boots , gloves etc .

Let soak in overnight , at least . Wipe off excess before using .

It nearly will waterproof work gloves and boots . Short of immersion .

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Paraffin (candle wax) can be a bit brittle on its own and have a little difficulty adhering unless it's cut with something like microcrystalline paraffin ("sticky wax" sold for various purposes, including commonly being used on surfboards) and you'll need to either heat the wax to render it soft enough to make for a smooth coating, or else mix it with either oil or a non-polar solvent. If mixed with oil it's easy to store, but you need to pick the right kind for your intended purpose. Drying oils like linseed oil (especially "boiled" linseed oil with metallic drying catalysts) will oxidize over time to form a dry polymer, but in their in-between state if an excess is left on it can become tacky, so frequent thin coats with the excess wiped off is the best way to build up a durable coating. Non-drying oils like mineral oil will retain their "wet" nature over time until absorbing, where they'll resist oxidizing and persist in a liquid state, which does keep the leather from drying out, but also tends to soften it. Generally you'll want a fairly high ratio of oil or solvent relative to the wax.

 

[jfk1110]

Obenaufs.......... Nuff said.....

 

[y53p]

I ended up using snoseal btw. Worked fine.