Is It Normal?

L

Let It Bleed

Joined
May 13, 2007
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Have bought maybe 6 Case knives and a couple of Queens in the past year. And except for a missing shield on a Queen CZ Cattleman, they have all been top notch. Never absolutely perfect, but I don't care about little scratches that you can only see at certain angles.

However, I just received a Case medium Stockman CV and it is bad gritty when opening and has scratches you can feel. They're not gouges and it's going to see use so I don't really care. But this knife is so gritty, it left what felt like fine sand on my hands.

I plan on cleaning, oiling, and using the knife, but am a bit put off by its initial condition. I always worry about the fundamental quality of tools, when there is sloppiness that could have easily been noticed and remedied before it went out the door.

I realize that knives may sometimes sit on a shelf for quite some time inbetween manufacture and final purchase. But how could that much grit get on a nib knife that is wrapped in thin brown paper and in a box? I don't know, I guess it could.

My Question: Have you ever gotten a nib knife in this condition and then had problems with it after cleaning and oiling?

Request for Advice: As I'm new to traditional knives, I would appreciate any cleaning advice. I'm used to modern folders that can be taken apart when crud gets in the pivot and inner parts. Not sure how to thoroughly clean knives that cannot be taken apart. If there is a cleaning a traditional knife sticky, I apologize as I'm in a hurry and won't see this until tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
Yes, it's normal. It is filings from the manufacturing process, it doesn't happen on the shelf or in the box. Use a toothbrush, dishwashing detergent, and hot water. Work the action under the water and everything should flush right out. Dry, blow with compressed air if you have it, and oil the joint. It should be really smooth after this and the grit is no indication of inferior quality.
 
It's more normal from some manufacturers than from others.

Work the action under the water and everything should flush right out. Dry, blow with compressed air if you have it, and oil the joint. It should be really smooth after this and the grit is no indication of inferior quality.
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That's exactly what I would do, open and close it under running water.
 
Buyers should not have to do this type of maintenance on a NIB knife. I'm already displeased with Case regarding a recent purchase. Hearing more if these kind of stories doesn't restore my faith.
 
Will having a gritty opening knife in anyway damage the backspring over time, or is more of a pet peeve?
I have a few case knives that came out of box working perfectly but after breaking them in, and after some extended pocket time, They've have gotten gritty. Maybe it's coincidence but the grit has only ever been on the clip blades.

I tried Let it Bleed's maintenance tips on all my knives with grit, and it significantly reduced the grind as well as giving it sweet action.

For the record, every NIB Case knife I've ever gotten has been close to perfect.
 
It is pretty normal in knives in all price ranges today. At least in my experience. I've been surprised a couple of times by knives that did not have a lot of debris in the joints.

Now, if the grittiness does not clear up with cleaning and oiling or if the blade starts to bind, I would contact the seller about returning it.
 
I feel like such an idiot, I saw nib and for some reason it didn't connect, I couldn't picture a nib knife, (worse part is I knew what nib means, must be tired;) ) anyway I've only encountered this with newer Case knives and the few I had cleaned up with soap and water worked it open and close, rinse and repeat dry thoroughly and lube.

BTW the few I had all came from box stores like Wally Mart. :rolleyes: :)
 
I've only experienced this sort of "grittiness" and extreme difficulty opening a knife from a GEC knife. While I never ran the knife under water, I did use up quite a bit of Q-tips, 1x1 alcohol pads, and my AirDuster Blaster CO2 thingy to get the goo gone. It worked fine after that.
 
I've had a lot more of this grittiness with GEC knives than I have with Case knives. Just my experience. It's not a big deal and can easily be cleaned out but to me it is more of an annoyance on a $90 knife than it is on a $40 one.

addylo said:
Buyers should not have to do this type of maintenance on a NIB knife. I'm already displeased with Case regarding a recent purchase. Hearing more if these kind of stories doesn't restore my faith.
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I suspected that it was metal dust or "filings," but it seems like it would be simple to wipe the blade off before assembling. However, I know little to noyhing about manufacturing processes. The grinds are uneven and a bit sloppy . Just looks like it was rushed or maybe a less experienced worker. Definite burr left on blades.

But everything fits together perfectly, so I'm happy. As this is only my 2nd CV bladed Case knife, I wondered if they were more prone to collect what I call metal dust (i.e. filings). The 1st was a med Texas Jack that was clean of these filings.

Haven't had the chance to clean it yet, other than wiping it down several times with a soft cloth and trying to get into the pivot the best I could. This has already made a significant improvement. A little TLC and she'll be good to go for many years.

Personally, I have been pleased with my Case knives, including this latest one. The grind on the Spey blade is less than ideal, but $49.99 shipped ain't gonna buy perfection. I gotta say though, the medium Stockman seems larger than I remember.

Didn't think this was a real issue, but was a bit surprised after the first 5 I bought were nice and clean straight out if the box. Thanks for the replies and I'll get her all cleaned up tomorrow.
 
Let It Bleed said:
Personally, I have been pleased with my Case knives, including this latest one. The grind on the Spey blade is less than ideal, but $49.99 shipped ain't gonna buy perfection. I gotta say though, the medium Stockman seems larger than I remember.

Didn't think this was a real issue, but was a bit surprised after the first 5 I bought were nice and clean straight out if the box. Thanks for the replies and I'll get her all cleaned up tomorrow.
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Maybe you're not aware, but Case has four differently sized Stockman's, from 3 1/8" to 3 7/8". The size differences are dependent on whether it's a square or round bolstered knife, and whether you have the serpentine pattern or what I call the slightly pregnant pattern, such as in the Crandall medium Stockman (not to be confused with the Sowbelly Stockman).
 
Let It Bleed said:
I suspected that it was metal dust or "filings," but it seems like it would be simple to wipe the blade off before assembling.
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I think its actually polishing compound, and it gets there after the knife is assembled.

Some people swear by spraying WD-40, Im not one of them. Ive used running hot water, or open and close under soapy water, or pour alcohol on the joint, or drip mineral oil on the joint with a Q tip and work the blade until the oil does not come out black. Ive even been known to use spray brake cleaner (which does not leave a smelly residue like WD-40).

Disclaimer, I am not a professional cutler, and even though brake cleaner works great for me, it is not endorsed by anyone else. And Bernard Levine speciffically disapproves of WD-40 and solvents. That leaves hot soapy water and or mineral oil as approved by the collectors advocate. Note also Bernard disapproves of getting mineral oil on bone handles. But his opinion is biased towards preserving antiques in as found condition.
 
I like the look of the squared looking bolsters, but usually get the rounded ones. At least that is the trend from my small collection. It just seems like the rounded bolster may be a little more comfortable carried in a front pocket. Also, when looking at the actual knife in hand (i.e. 3 dimensions), I like the way it looks better than the picture. But still like the squared bolster. My small Stockman has squared bolster, so it is very distinctive from the Peanut.

However, I didn't realize there were so many size variations, although I should have from the sheer number of items in a Case catalog. I suppose there are size variations within each size designation.

As for cleaning, I just used q-tips, a handkerchief, plastic copies of dental tools, and mineral oil. All is good. Traditionals may be good therapy for my OCD tendencies.

Thanks for everyone's responses with advice, opinions, and information.
 
I think Jon nailed it. It's not metal filings, or anything as major as that; it's just buffing compound that gets worked into the joint accidentally during the final polish. Really not a big deal at all, and certainly no indicator of the quality of the product.

(If someone is so unbelievably picky that this is an actual issue for them, I'd say this: Go buy a 100% machine-made Victorinox Swiss Army Knife, instead of one that's hand-finished by human craftsmen.)
 
White Lightning is a bicycle chain lube that can be repurposed for folding knife pivots. It attracts metal particles and "transports" them out of the contact points to where they aren't in the moving parts. Check it out for yourself, I did and every knife I acquire gets lubed with it. It is a wax based lube in a volatile carrier.
 
"Use a toothbrush, dishwashing detergent, and hot water. Work the action under the water and everything should flush right out...."

Cleaning with hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent and an old toothbrush works well on quality knives like Case. I wouldn't recommend it on super cheap knives of uncertain materials (the kind that might need cleaning the most). It can soften glues holding on grip panels and shields. I speak from experience.
 
I get it quite often with new knives. I flush it out and then put it in my pocket. Within a few days its full of all sorts again, so I can't win ;)
 
I've had the "grittiness" problem when opening/closing a NIB Fallkniven U2. A flush with Break Free CLP took care of the issue.
 
I think one reason you see this is that removing the polishing compound not only is an extra step, but risks diminishing the shine of a newly made knife: cleaning means handling and potentially corrosive (soap and water) fluids or solvents that can dull a shiny new knife. Instead, they go from final polish, get a squirt of oil, wrapped up in paper and tubed or boxed.
 
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