Is it possible to sharpen Cold Steel serrations and how

lonestar1979 · Apr 30, 2015

I ordered couple old style voyagers clip points in vg1,but just serrated versions were available.Have no clue how to sharpen these small serrations.Should I just grind them off or there is a way to sharpen them.

feralkid · Apr 30, 2015

i would try using a set of micro files

Fire_Brand · Apr 30, 2015

Try just stropping the flat side of the chisel grind and if you need heavier work a sharp maker can help though it still isn't small enough to make it between the tiny serrations. That said, it would just end up grinding more heavily near the tips of the serrations which would effectively sharpen them, they'll just start to lose shape after awhile but I wouldn't worry about that.

Cold Steel Knives · Apr 30, 2015

Lansky make a sharpener specifically for CS serrations. It works great!
Alternatively, you can send the knife back to us and we'll re-sharpen it for you

BitingSarcasm · Apr 30, 2015

I have been sharpening my old vaquero grande for the last 15 or so years with this teeny little tapered diamond rod that is normally used for fishhooks. Those little serrations don't take much at all to tune up, and the larger have more room to work. And yes, it does take a loooong time to work every little scalloped edge along a blade that size (curse you OCD), but it lasts for quite a while.

GCG199 · Apr 30, 2015

I have found that the corner edges of the DMT Dia-Fold sharpeners will work too.

One just has to be careful and focus on keeping their place as it is tedious to do it this way.

But it works very well.

G. Scott H. · Apr 30, 2015

Cold Steel Knives said:
Lansky make a sharpener specifically for CS serrations. It works great!
Alternatively, you can send the knife back to us and we'll re-sharpen it for you

+1

I've had one for several years now, and it works perfectly on my serrated X2 Voyager and Super Edge.

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/LSLTRCS/Lansky-Crock-Stick-Cold-Steel-Serrated-Knife-Sharpener

edit: I agree that just stropping the flat side or giving it a few strokes on a ceramic rod will allow you to maintain the serrations for a long time, but the Lansky works awesomely when that's not enough.

ichor · Apr 30, 2015

Tho' I don't own many (nor particularly like), serrated blades, I've been successfully using my Spyderco Sharpmaker for a couple decades.

Jason B. · May 1, 2015

Sharpening serrations should be done the same way regardless of serration. First, never grind the face of the serration. Second, use a ceramic rod to gently rub on the backside of the serration at a very low angle until a burr forms on the front side. Third, remove burr by power stropping via, cotton sewn wheel, paper wheel, or leather wheel with the compound of your choice.

In about two minutes you will have the sharpest serrations in town.

ricklee4570 · May 1, 2015

Jason B. said:
Sharpening serrations should be done the same way regardless of serration. First, never grind the face of the serration. Second, use a ceramic rod to gently rub on the backside of the serration at a very low angle until a burr forms on the front side. Third, remove burr by power stropping via, cotton sewn wheel, paper wheel, or leather wheel with the compound of your choice.

In about two minutes you will have the sharpest serrations in town.

Simple and well explained. Thanks Jason!

G. Scott H. · May 2, 2015

Jason B. said:
Sharpening serrations should be done the same way regardless of serration. First, never grind the face of the serration. Second, use a ceramic rod to gently rub on the backside of the serration at a very low angle until a burr forms on the front side. Third, remove burr by power stropping via, cotton sewn wheel, paper wheel, or leather wheel with the compound of your choice.

In about two minutes you will have the sharpest serrations in town.

I generally agree with you (I think an older post of yours is what convinced me to start doing it this way, if fact), but I'm thinking in terms of damage to a scallop. Let's say the edge rolls inward toward the concave side of one of the larger scallops, or the very tip of one of the little serrations gets bent toward one of it's mates (the tiny ones usually break off, but not always). Imho, you need something to flatten or straighten the damage before you go back to sharpening normally. That's where the Lansky dogbone I linked to comes in for me. I should have been more specific in my previous post. Maybe there's a better way to address such damage that I haven't thought of, but that's how I do it. :thumbup:

Jason B. · May 3, 2015

G. Scott H. said:
I generally agree with you (I think an older post of yours is what convinced me to start doing it this way, if fact), but I'm thinking in terms of damage to a scallop. Let's say the edge rolls inward toward the concave side of one of the larger scallops, or the very tip of one of the little serrations gets bent toward one of it's mates (the tiny ones usually break off, but not always). Imho, you need something to flatten or straighten the damage before you go back to sharpening normally. That's where the Lansky dogbone I linked to comes in for me. I should have been more specific in my previous post. Maybe there's a better way to address such damage that I haven't thought of, but that's how I do it. :thumbup:

I am sure it works well, damaged serrations must be taken care of but was not addressed in my basic serration sharpening description. To fix damaged CS serrations that would likely be the best option followed by polishing.