Is it the leather or is it me?

T

thatsaknife

Joined
Mar 27, 2015
Messages
247
Hello knife people:)
I made two sheaths out of two different pieces of veg tanned natural cow leather. They both were heavily rubbed with Fiebings mink oil as the only finish. The left sheath is glossy and smooth while the right is satin and almost nubuck in texture. The only difference in making is that the left sheath leather was out in the sun for a half day before making sheath. BTW they both function fine but the right sheath scuffs easier.
Thanks

sheaths_zpspixa3zxk.jpg
 
different leathers take products differently....even from the same hide. I'm sure the sun had a little to do with it but there's no real ryme or reason "why" it happens...it just does.

They are good looking sheaths though.
 
I agree with druid. The surface, density and flesh are different depending on where I cut it, even on pieces as small as a double shoulder. So much so that I've gotten used to cutting from specific sections depending on the type of sheath, whether it will be stamped or not, and the dye requested. I use the least firm cuts for pouches or parts that get folded, and use firm leather for stacked style sheaths. Leather with stretch marks can be used to a high standard if it'll be stamped. I'm not totally versed on the cuts, but it does seem like the center of the double shoulder is more firm towards the middle.

I also agree that those are nice pieces of work. I'd take the one on the right. I like a more subdued sheen and scuff marks are cool.
 
One thing I have found, is that heat will make the leather stiffer.

On some sheaths, after wet forming, I will place a mildly damp piece of leather in the oven on the lowest setting. it is just hot enough to be a bit uncomfortable to hold.

Bright sun can get leather pretty warm. It can also give a good tan to leather. Darkening it.

If I want to harden, or make stiffer and get a better shine, I have a bottle of Atom Wax. It does shine up, and stiffen.
 
I use SnowSeal on all my sheaths, melting in two or three coats inside and out. This seals the leather against moisture, and I've never had a blade stored in a sheath treated with SnowSeal rust. It also stiffens the leather a bit, although it will still take a set when warm. Those are nice looking sheaths, BTW. Wish I could do the same level of work.
 
Nice work there on those two sheaths. Sometimes its the leather. Afterall it is just a dead cow. I have now on my bench a belt blank. Herman Oak cut from the top side of the side, so the best of the best. Nichole basket stamped it and brought it out to me and siad you cut this one crooked. Ok so I might miss by a 32nd or so. Lets see. This one goes from 1.25" for 25 " then shrinks to 1 1/8" for 3" and then makes an abrupt right turn. The rest of the belt literally drops 3.5" after it swells back up to 1.25" I might miss by a 32nd. i didn't do that! Just a dead cow. Guess I'll be cutting another belt blank in the morning.
 
Dave, just curious, do you guys use tape or anything on the back of the blank? Wondering if it matters or not. I'll make my top piece from 7/8oz.
 
No we don't. This was heavier though, 8/9 oz I believe. It wouldn't hurt just in case I guess. Pro Carv really does away with a lot of that.
 
Thanks for the praise. I find leather sheath making to be very therapeutic.Also a knife is just a kitchen utensil to me until it gets its sheath.
One thing that makes natural leather so much fun is the changes it goes through from fleshy and pinky from the scrap bin to dark with a little sunshine and then deep and rich with a little rubbing of finish oil etc.
Ive never heard anyone say 'That leather looked great when new but now looks worse for age'
 
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