Is my Chive lock operating correctly? (picture inside) >>

[beady]

I was wondering if the lock in engaging far enough over onto the blade? Never had a linerlock before, so don't have anything to compare it to, just seems like it should have closer to 100% coverage of the back of the blade to better resist closing?

I just got it and my BM HK14210 yesterday Both are the sharpest knives I've ever handled; both will shave hair from the back of my hand out of the box, sweet

Thanks,

Mike

 

[sjahn]

My Leek is the same, and had no problem for years of use.

Though, I'd like to have the lock covering 100% of blade tang, there's few knives that has 100% coverage, and it seems that it just works fine with small coverage.

On the other hand, I have experienced lock failure from some other knife which lock did not engage fully, so I have my doubts and worries for those small lock coverage. I found that the later production models of that failed knife have 100% coverage. Well, after a few months of use, the lock/tang has worn down a bit, the lock now covers about half the tang. That's good. Though I still wish the finish had been better to begin with.

 

[STR]

My Chive's frame lock was similar when I got it but after I used it some it started moving over farther. Now about 75% of the lock covers the blade. Shove it all the way in every now and then and eventually you'll notice it is going in a little farther. I wouldn't like so little lock behind my blade either. My fingers are more valuable to me than a new knife so I'd advance the wear on that one especially on a pocket scalpel like those things are.

STR

 

[beady]

Thanks guys.

 

[Deadhead Archer]

I've notice that with my Chive, I can actually "push" the frame lock inwards to get the benefit of almost locking the frame by making the frame tougher to unlock. My own LAWKs, if you will. I don't do it every time, but have done it a few times ever.

Am I advancing wear on the lock? Probably. It's a $30 knife so it doesn't break my heart.

 

[Physics]

That's is pretty much how my lock-up looks. Since it isn't designed or marketed as a hard use knife you shouldn't be doing any heavy duty cutting with it. That said, you can push the lock bar all the way to the right. It sorta snaps into place for rock solid lock up and you would really have to be putting some major torque on the knife to make the lock fail then. When you're done cutting just snap it back out to the left. I've used this technique here and there it hasn't had any ill effects on the knife.

 

[Physics]

I've notice that with my Chive, I can actually "push" the frame lock inwards to get the benefit of almost locking the frame by making the frame tougher to unlock. My own LAWKs, if you will. I don't do it every time, but have done it a few times ever.

Am I advancing wear on the lock? Probably. It's a $30 knife so it doesn't break my heart.

D'Oh! Beat me to it!