Is my liner lock wearing out??

H

happyhunter

Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
71
I bought a Benchmade AFCK with a liner lock about 7 or 8 years ago. It has been a great EDC and I use it a lot. When the knife is open I notice the liner is now more than half way across the blade. It is almost flush with the other side of the blade. I can see where the metal is wearing off the liner. When I push the liner over to close the knife I see there is a small finger of metal sticking up over top of the blade. I guess a picture would be worth a thousand words here. I looks to me like it is wearing. I suspect that this is probably normal.

My questions are:
When is it worn to the point it should not be used?
Can it be fixed?
Is it worth fixing or should I just buy a new knife? (I know, I know. I should just use this as an excuse and buy a new one anyhow.)

Thanks!!!
 
No need for a pic as far as I'm concerned. Most of us that hang here have seen it before.

In answer to your question, yes it can most likely be fixed by BenchMade. If they elect they may replace it depending on how old or they may deem it normal wear and charge you also. It can happen with well used (normally used) locks that they eventually travel too far at the interface and some can and do actually leave the blades on certain models.

I would call or contact BM customer service on Monday and talk with a rep there about the procedure to follow as well as worse case scenario for fees involved. I would say it should be nominal. There are a couple of ways to repair this so its hard to say how they will do it but they do have a good coverage team there.

STR
 
You may be able to fix it yourself. Sometimes the pivot pin is loose and the alignment of the blade changes when locked, making the liner move over further. Any loosening in the pivot will result in a liner lock that moves further over. Pull the liner over with your finger, if the blade has side to side play, when not locked or in close position, then tighten the pivot and the lock will probably stop closer to the middle. Loose pivots ruining liner lock positioon is a particular problem with spydercos, but I've seen it with benchmade, just less frequently. If the pivot won't hold in the tightened position, then use lock-tite. If it's a spyderco, in my experience always use locktite on their pivots.
 
i've had many liner locks wear down just like that. usually, the knife manufacturer will fix it, which is nice and fantastic on their part.

but it gets irritating to have to deal sending knives in/out all the time. maybe it's just me, maybe i flip my knives too much, maybe i use them too hard. but i wear out linerlocks (even good, quality ones). it was too annoying after a while. i only carry a fixed blade now.


i'm just interested as to why so many people keep going back to linerlocks. it's a common problem for them to wear out or develop bladeplay. a lot of people experience this--i just can't figure out why they are still so commonly used and why people keep buying them.

maybe it's just me.


framelocks are dangerously close to crossing the line as well.

it's fixed blades and lockbacks for me all the way.
 
Well I checked my knife, no blade play. I've not had much problems with screws coming loose on this knife.

As to why I have a liner lock. It is a pretty old knife. From before they had the Axis lock. I generally like the knife. Me and it have been together for 8 years and I really don't want to dump it. It has served me well. That said, I would hesitate to buy a liner lock if I were buying one today. I might consider the Rat Trap. But I would look for a better lock.

Midget,
You mentioned a frame lock. What is that? Is the Axis lock long lasting? Is it secure? I wonder if a stray thumb might accidentally release it??

I also prefer fixed blades. PA allows open carry of fixed blades and I think I may start carrying my Benchmade Outbounder. It is a pretty knife, but the handle is small and slippery.
 
framelocks are just thick linerlocks.

on a framelock, the entire scale (commonly made of titanium) is used as the locking mechanism. otherwise, the theory of lockup is the same as a linerlock.

search for a "strider SNG," or "chris reeve sebenza." you seem to be a benchmade fan, i believe benchmade refers to it as the "monolock." there's pictures and diagrams of the monolock on their website. the benchmade skirmish is a framelock.


axis locks are ok as well, but i still don't think they are much better than linerlocks or framelocks. i have had an omega spring break on me before.


if you can carry fixed, i say, do it and never look back.
 
Midget said:
i've had many liner locks wear down just like that. usually, the knife manufacturer will fix it, which is nice and fantastic on their part.

but it gets irritating to have to deal sending knives in/out all the time. maybe it's just me, maybe i flip my knives too much, maybe i use them too hard. but i wear out linerlocks (even good, quality ones). it was too annoying after a while. i only carry a fixed blade now.


i'm just interested as to why so many people keep going back to linerlocks. it's a common problem for them to wear out or develop bladeplay. a lot of people experience this--i just can't figure out why they are still so commonly used and why people keep buying them.

maybe it's just me.


framelocks are dangerously close to crossing the line as well.

it's fixed blades and lockbacks for me all the way.
Click to expand...

as far as folks buying liner locks a lot of top custom smiths offer very little options in that regard (ie pat cawford and emerson both of which i collect) and i for one have never had bad luck with any customs, and only rarely with high quality productions (ie BM, spyderco, EKI, MT, etc) and have NEVER had a problem with any of my frame locks (ie cammilus maxx, strider, darrel ralph, BM). i do think waving EKIs is hard on the lock and is one reason EKI has a bad rep in that regard.

nothing wrong with fixed blades though i'll admit that, just harder to pack everyday especially in the summer as i prefer to conceal mine, hard to do with summer clothes imho, and i have imho one of the best concealment knives around a bud nealy amoeba w/MASS sheath system.

as far as the posters problem with his 800 IIRC, the liner will move some across the engagement point & about 1/3 of the way across is optimal, but i have had a couple BMs that went all the way across and would still (and i mean still) pass a spine whack test, i do know that they are more prone to failure at that point but these have been that way for yrs FWIW. i have just been lazy about sending them in (a BM 800S and a 975Sbt)
 
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