Is my new Buck 110 leather sheath too tight?

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Dec 30, 2016
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I just bought an official Buck leather sheath for my 110. I wonder, however, if it's too tight. In order to snap the button closed on the sheath, I must force the knife deep into the sheath and the spine of the blade (at the apex where the clip point starts) is pressed down so that the back spring is not flush the way that it normally is flush with the brass bolsters and frame when open or closed. When I pull the knife out I can feel and see the tension on the back spring and blade releasing and coming back to it's normal position.

I'm not too mechanically inclined so I can't figure out if this will adversely affect the tension of the spring over time. I also imagine that getting into and out of my car and other movements of daily life will put even more pressure on the blade and spring. I assume that the leather will eventually stretch and loosen, but in the meantime it will be stored in the sheath with this tension on the spring. Is this something I should worry about, or is it completely normal and harmless to the knife?

edit: This is more a question about the knife and the backspring and less about the sheath.

This is my first post on Blade Forums so I hope I've put this in the proper category. I also searched and couldn't find this question answered before. Thanks for your help.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I just looked carefully on the sheath and noticed it has "110" stamped into the back of the sheath under the belt loop.
 
I think I would procure some Neets Foot oil and rub in a generous portion on the sheath. Then insert the knife, snap it and set it aside to dry. After 2 days return and check it, pulling it out of the sheath, to see if it fits better. DM
 
Alternatively you could wrap the knife in several layers of plastic wrap, soak the pouch in water, cram the knife into the pouch . . .
and you guessed it . . . set it aside to dry, wait two days return and check it.

An over abundance of Neets foot oil tends to make leather break down and get wimpy. Maybe good for a thin coat though afterward.
I prefer this stuff for afterward.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACKROCK-LEATHER-CLEANER-WITH-COND/dp/B008B70CRA
 
Holsters for pistols are treated as stated above. I wrap a layer of the 'cling' food wrap around the gun (or knife). Soak holster or sheath in warm water several minutes then push knife or pistol in holster or sheath. If I need the P or K to be held tighter I work the leather to form tight to the P or K. Mak needs to weigh in one this. For holsters a shiney coating that doesn't soften leather is preferred. I believe the name is NeeLlac. But will appreciate being informed if it isn't. 300
 
Holsters for pistols are treated as stated above. I wrap a layer of the 'cling' food wrap around the gun (or knife). Soak holster or sheath in warm water several minutes then push knife or pistol in holster or sheath. If I need the P or K to be held tighter I work the leather to form tight to the P or K. Mak needs to weigh in one this. For holsters a shiney coating that doesn't soften leather is preferred. I believe the name is NeeLlac. But will appreciate being informed if it isn't. 300

NeetLac was a product Tandy Leather sold. I believe it was Shellac based but I don't know for sure.
 
Thank you for the replies. Will putting the knife in the sheath with tension on the blade and spring (even if only for a couple of days) adversely affect the integrity of the mechanism and the lockup? I've become attached to this knife and have decided to get rid of most of my other more "tactical" knives and make this my main knife. The pattern of the wood is beautiful and the weight of the knife in my hand is perfect. But more importantly, when opened it has a nice click and solid lockup and I want to preserve this if possible.
 
The edge area that is forced against the blade edge could become dull during the process of stretching & fitting the sheath.
So, you don't have to sharpen it you could fit a match, a straw, a piece of cardboard, ect., in the blade well before pushing
the knife into the sheath. Thus, protecting the blade edge. DM
 
The edge area that is forced against the blade edge could become dull during the process of stretching & fitting the sheath.
So, you don't have to sharpen it you could fit a match, a straw, a piece of cardboard, ect., in the blade well before pushing
the knife into the sheath. Thus, protecting the blade edge. DM
I put a piece of paper in there and it came out with no resistance with the knife in the sheath, so it appears that the edge of the blade is not touching anything, but the back spring definitely has pressure on it, I can see and feel it releasing and returning to normal as I pull the knife out of the sheath. I don't understand enough about the mechanics involved and the attributes of the steel to know if this will cause the spring to permanently lose tension in a couple days time. What do you think?
 
All my 110 and 112 leather sheaths took a day or so to fit the leather. The only downside, is that if you store the knife in the sheath overnight, it tarnishes the brass quicker.
 
A piece of paper is not thick enough to cushion the blade against the spacer or back spring (which is really a short bar) but
I'll call it that in hopes that you know what I'm talking about. You need a material as thick as 5-6 sheets of paper positioned
at the belly area of the knife's edge. As that's where it would rub against the cutting edge of the blade. This tension on the spring should have little to no lasting effect. DM
 
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Thank you for the replies.

Will putting the knife in the sheath with tension on the blade and spring (even if only for a couple of days) adversely affect the integrity of the mechanism and the lockup?
Here is a recent thread discussing fatigue in knife springs and failure due to micro flaws (that most any spring will have if even ever so slightly). The point being that the spring rate doesn't change with use but springs can fail not from fatigue from use but from flaws IF THE FLAWS ARE LARGE ENOUGH.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/question-for-jimmy-concerning-omega-springs.1511257/

Plainly said and to the point : I would't worry about it IN THE LEAST.
Only slight prob you might get more dirt in the lock but since it is in the pouch and not in your pocket probably not a concern.

I've become attached to this knife and have decided to get rid of most of my other more "tactical" knives and make this my main knife. The pattern of the wood is beautiful and the weight of the knife in my hand is perfect. But more importantly, when opened it has a nice click and solid lockup and I want to preserve this if possible.

I can certainly understand that ! ! !
The 110 is quite a knife in the ways you stated ! ! !

I do wonder why you hesitate to soak and fit. Especially since we have provided a low to zero cost solution to the situation.

PS: Of course you will eventually get caught working in the rain or fall in the creek and the problem will disappear . . . will have to clean and oil the knife but . . .
 
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I always sheath a 110 pivot end first. Many years and many 110s and never had a problem. I have applied some Snowseal to a few 110 sheaths and it has helped loosen them up as well as protect them.
 
I do wonder why you hesitate to soak and fit. Especially since we have provided a low to zero cost solution to the situation.
I don't have any Saran Wrap in the house and don't feel like going to the store lol. But I've had the knife in the sheath for a few hours already after working the leather with my fingers and it is now nice and snug with a perfect fit. I might still wet-form the sheath after I go to the store later this week. Thanks for the info regarding the spring, it gave me peace of mind.

And once again, thanks to everyone for being so helpful. After reading threads on BladeForums for years as a non-member when researching my latest knife purchase, I'm happy to finally be a part of this community.
 
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