Is the Norton India a good "do-it-all" stone for a beginner?

J

JMFWSU

Joined
Apr 23, 2002
Messages
181
Hi,

I received a knife back from JasonB and was very impressed with the edge he put on it. Now, I want to invest the time to learn to do it myself. I was considering the DMT DiaSharps in course and fine, but now I'm also considering the Norton India combination stone in course and fine. The Norton India is a fraction of the price of the DMT DiaSharps and seems to have a very good reputation.

Could I go wrong by starting off with the combination India stone? Is there something I'm missing? I plan to use the DMT clamp as an angle guide. So far, it would be for 52100, D2, 154CM, and possibly S35VN. Sharpening speed is not a big concern.

Thanks!
 
I have the Norton India IB8 (8x2x1 combo). I use it it with basic steels (420/440 stainless, 1095 and similar carbon steels) and it works fine with those steels for initial profiling and bevel setting. Depending on how refined of an edge I am looking for, I will either finish on the fine side and go straight to a strop, or I may move onto Arkansas stones or the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

I have never used it with any of the other steels you mention, so I can't tell you how well it would work with any of those. It's a nice high-quality oil stone and I like using it. I don't use an angle guide, I just use it free-hand.
 
I have the Norton Crystolon JB8 combo 8x2x1. It's silicon carbide on both sides and is capable of producing decent edges on all the steels mentioned. I've sharpened all of them on it except s35vn, but figure s30v is close enough.
 
You can't go wrong with the India or the Crystalon stones.

I prefer the Crystalon as it cuts a little faster and has (in my hands) better feedback. Used with oil it has the added advantage of creating its own stropping compound in the mud it forms. I can eke out a slightly finer edge on the India but the difference is not great.

Either one would be great to get your feet wet, even the ACE combination stone at my local hardware store is a good starting point.

I would still learn on some beater or kitchen knives and not ones you care much about.
 
JM, I have used the stone you mention for the past 30 years and it is a great stone. Offering low wear with good economy for years. It gives a good utility edge on steels all the way up to steels like S60V. Learn to use it with the wedge or guide until you get comfortable. I have the Norton combination India stone in several sizes but the one to start with is the IB8. It's roomy enough to take you a long way in sharpening. I use mineral oil and and light pressure on the final strokes. It takes around 10 knives to break in the stone. Good luck, DM
 
I personally had a really hard time with the India stone when I was learning. I have/had a combo with medium Crystolon on one side and Fine India on the other. The Crystolon side worked great. The India side, I just couldn't get any results from. I'm certain it was my technique and lack of patience and lack of repetition. If I had tried harder or for longer, or both, I might have gotten good results.

These days, I almost never use that stone, but when I do, I get nice results from the India side.

If you have the budget, I think you'll have an easier time with the DMTs. The 2 big disadvantages of the DMTs, compared to the India, are:
1. DMTs are far more expensive.
2. DMTs are much more delicate than the India. If you press hard while sharpening, you'll remove the diamonds from the plating and radically shorten their usable life span.

The advantages are that the DMTs are just easier to use overall. They cut noticeably faster, never dish, and (in the 8" size) are wider, which makes them easier and faster yet.

You can achieve good results with either one. It's all a matter of time and technique.

Brian.
 
I was in your situation a year ago. I've tried most of the above along with Shapton glass stones and Atomas. Most of my knives are S35VN, M390 and 110V. The diamonds work best for me. The "stone" I use most often:
6" DMT Dia-sharp course/fine combo...~$45

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
I almost went India for my first bench stone but decided on the Crystolon for the reasons you see above.

That was ten years ago and it remains my only bench stone.
I have yet to come across or hear of a job it can't handle.

FWIW, YMMV.
 
I also am a Norton Crystolon user. It's my primary stone even though I have all the range of natural stones (washita, arkansas).
I finish off my honing with a piece of 1500 grit emory taped on a wooden paint stirrer and clamped to my workbench. That combo has worked fine for me for 60+ years.
Rich
 
The Crystolon stone will sharpen any knife steel. Good technique takes practice. Use cheap knives to start.
 
HeavyHanded said:
You can't go wrong with the India or the Crystalon stones.

I prefer the Crystalon as it cuts a little faster and has (in my hands) better feedback. Used with oil it has the added advantage of creating its own stropping compound in the mud it forms. I can eke out a slightly finer edge on the India but the difference is not great.

Either one would be great to get your feet wet, even the ACE combination stone at my local hardware store is a good starting point.

I would still learn on some beater or kitchen knives and not ones you care much about.
Click to expand...

I'm still very new to this and started out with a cheap True Value 8 inch combo stone. Probably the same stone as the Ace version. I have since moved onto DMT plates and a Spyderco Fine Ceramic stone but I still go back to the cheap True Value stone from time to time. It just works.

I actually just picked up a Norton IC11 Crystalon/India combo stone. The coarse side is Crystalon and the fine is India. Haven't used it yet but pick it up just to expand my learning a bit and to experiment. It's a big stone at 11 1/2 x 2 inches.
 
It would be fine to learn on..You probably already know but its more about technique than tool anyway..You can get a very serviceable edge of those stones. When I learned to sharpen as a kid growing up in a wood working shop I watched my papaw get crazy edges of a old piece of core drilled rock..Just a old round piece of rock that came out of a core drill..Sharpened everything with it. Lathe tools,drawknives,chisels and pocket knives..
 
Kentucky said:
It would be fine to learn on..You probably already know but its more about technique than tool anyway..You can get a very serviceable edge of those stones. .
Click to expand...

This^^^

The DMTs will cut faster because Diamond is at the top of the scale of hardness. All how much $$ you want to spend.
 
I've used the same DMT hones (coarse/medium/fine) for 20+ years and they still perform as well or better than new. Just clean the scarf off with a light cloth, and occasionally wipe them down with BreakFree CLP. No problems with the diamond surface coming off. It takes only light pressure -- you're pressing a very thin edge to the hone (think of walking on a golf green in high heels). I use a Black Arkansas bench hone occasionally on high carbon blades (wood-working chisels, 1095, 1070, Carbon V, 52100) as it seems to impart a micro-toothy edge, but high carbide steels like D2, S30V/S35Vn just skate off the Black Arkansas. Diamond hones seem to cut every kind of steel, and that's what I use 99% of the time.
 
I use my IB8 a lot. It it a great all around stone. I sharpen all of my kitchen knives with it. Also VG10 and 1095. I like the edge it produces. The fine grit is rated about the same as a DMT Coarse but it seems to leave a much finer edge IME.
 
Agreed, the India gives a much finer edge. The two have a different scratch pattern as well. DM
 
Thanks for all the replies. I just won a made in the USA Norton IB8 on eBay. I expect it will take a lot of practice to learn freehand.
 
Congratulation! The U.S. made stones are a step up from the others. Just use the wedges or guides that help you hold a consistent angle and read the tips here as there are some good teachers. It may not take you as long as your thinking it will. Post some photos of it when it arrives. Good luck. DM
 
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