Is there a cure for cancer?

L

Lavan

Joined
Nov 8, 2000
Messages
2,301
Shown here is my Greco Scagel. A couple months ago, for no apparent reason it started to get a black spot. RUST, if you will. Black rust. I picked it off and got it very small and oiled the blade and put it away. (Back in the sheath that sits next to my chair where I play with the sucker all the time)
The spot came back. With a vengeance. You can see where the "picking" brightened it a bit above the grind line, but you can ....also.... see the cancer trying to become terminal on the area BELOW the grind line. I know you're not supposed to store em in the sheath, but this one was fine for about 2-3 years since I got it. I did do a vinegar dip a year or so ago to help conceal the gouges that the maker made by clamping it in the vise to drive on the guard. But it stayed nice and gray for a looooonnnnngggg time until the sudden infection.
Any suggestions on something to try. It does ...not... seem to be pitted. Just black. I can't feel any "catch" with a pin or anything rubbed across the spot.

????????

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:confused:
 
The picture isn't loading, but rust will occur on high carbon blades like that - sounds like a bit of rust got in under the patina. I wouldn't worry about a flat black rust. Red/brown rust or anything that causes peeling would be a problem.
 
One thing you could try is use a little abrasive polish like Maas or Flitz. Get it on there with a Q-tip or something and dig in with some elbow grease for a few minutes. Refresh the polish once or twice as you go. I've done this to remove kydex scratches.

You may find you did too good of a job and end up with a nice shiny area, so you might have to re-do the patina.
 
I was just thinking about Flitz, and was going to ask if that would get rid of it.
 
It's critical that you get the rust out of the little pits it makes for it's self to lessen the chances of it reappearing.

I suggest you try one of the following methods:

Commercial rust removers usually contain some type of acid; so you might want to try just re-doing the vinegar (acetic acid) etch

Electrolytic Removal of Rust . You could localize the effect by coating the part of the blade being immersed with a resist leaving the rusted area exposed or in a manner similar to what they explain on the page. There is some info, with photos, of how this process worked on a knife here.

A brass brush (maybe even a stiff bristle wheel) on a dremel tool and WD40, then redo your vinegar etch.

Spot blasting it with a mild abrasive (walnut shell) or glass bead, then redo your vinegar etch.

A scotchbrite style wheel on a dremel tool and WD40, then redo your vinegar etch.

Try the methods on a scrape of steel or inexpensive paring knife to see how they affect the finish. The vinegar etch will cover up samll blemishes.

Regards,
Greg
 
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