Is there a sharpmaker style base to use Edge Pro format stones?

Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
396
Hi All,

I have a guided sharpener system and bunch of edge pro format stones and was wondering if there is an aftermarket (potentially 3D printed) base which is similar in working principles to the sharpmaker system that I can use with my edge pro format stones.

Occasionally I get rolls and chips on my edges that can not be repaired by strops. When that is the case, I either set my guided sharpening system and sharpen entire edge or use my hand held ceramic rod to remover the chips and rolls and strop back the blade. The first method (using the system) takes too long and often I am tempted to do full sharpening since I had the system set up but that means unnecessary metal is removed from the edge. While the second method (using the hand held ceramic) saves time and metal it is not as accurate as guided system. So I was thinking instead of investing sharpmaker style system why I should not get a base and use my alredy existing edge pro stones. I know I can make one from wood but I prefer to buy if there is something like that in the market already.
 
A good little trick I use with small stones is to just place a little angle guide between two stones at one end and pinch them to create a V.

As you are holding it keep one stone vertical(can be held against a wall or something fixed) just keep the blade parallel to one like on a sharp maker and away you go.

Use two stones of the same grit makes it easier but it can be done with different stones each side, just need to turn.

If you struggle to keep your grip a rubber band creates a solid set up.

Really simple, I use a sharpal angle pyramid which gives you four different angles, 14,17, 20, 25.

I use a DMT Diafold with a 4“ DMT Aligner stone with the angle guide and a rubber band, works great👍

Edit: works great with the diafold as the handle helps. I've used it with ceramic rods this way too. If you don't have an angle guide make one to the angle you need from an eraser or anything. The eraser can clean the stones too.
 
Last edited:
I had an arrangement with a craftsman here to produce a prototype we had come up with together a couple of years back, but it hasn't come to fruition and I don't know if it will.

I'm still hopeful, but not necessarily encouraged.

Hopefully he'll see this and chime in...or contact me. I don't want to "out" him here unless he wants to come forward to discuss the project further.
 
I had an arrangement with a craftsman here to produce a prototype we had come up with together a couple of years back, but it hasn't come to fruition and I don't know if it will.

I'm still hopeful, but not necessarily encouraged.

Hopefully he'll see this and chime in...or contact me. I don't want to "out" him here unless he wants to come forward to discuss the project further.
Good to hear. I am surprised that the market is not flooding with these things considering the popularity of 1x6 stones.
 
A good little trick I use with small stones is to just place a little angle guide between two stones at one end and pinch them to create a V.

As you are holding it keep one stone vertical(can be held against a wall or something fixed) just keep the blade parallel to one like on a sharp maker and away you go.

Use two stones of the same grit makes it easier but it can be done with different stones each side, just need to turn.

If you struggle to keep your grip a rubber band creates a solid set up.

Really simple, I use a sharpal angle pyramid which gives you four different angles, 14,17, 20, 25.

I use a DMT Diafold with a 4“ DMT Aligner stone with the angle guide and a rubber band, works great👍

Edit: works great with the diafold as the handle helps. I've used it with ceramic rods this way too. If you don't have an angle guide make one to the angle you need from an eraser or anything. The eraser can clean the stones too.
Thanks for the trick.

Actually I have tried something similar and found it to be bit fiddly to the point that I preferred to use the guided system.
 
... and was wondering if there is an aftermarket (potentially 3D printed) base which is similar in working principles to the sharpmaker system that I can use with my edge pro format stones.

I'm already busy with a design like this M murat1983 . I should have a 3D printed system ready in a couple months, perhaps I could get Gritomatic to stock them.
 
I'm already busy with a design like this M murat1983 . I should have a 3D printed system ready in a couple months, perhaps I could get Gritomatic to stock them.
That's great to hear! Will it have sub 15 degrees capability? I have sharpened some of my GEC whittling knives and some of SAKs to 12.5, it would be great to lower angle capabilities for special occasions.
 
That's great to hear! Will it have sub 15 degrees capability? I have sharpened some of my GEC whittling knives and some of SAKs to 12.5, it would be great to lower angle capabilities for special occasions.

I'll see if I can get the angle down lower in the design. For now I've got it to do 15-30 degrees per side.
 
If you have a simple protractor and a flat surface, then you can set any stone at any angle you want and use it like a guided system. All you need is something to lean the stone up against and something to anchor the bottom to prevent the stone from sliding.
 
If you have a simple protractor and a flat surface, then you can set any stone at any angle you want and use it like a guided system. All you need is something to lean the stone up against and something to anchor the bottom to prevent the stone from sliding.
This is perfect for what your saying. You set it to the angle you want then just make sure the stone is in perfect alignment with the arm. Cost me $15 US.

Edit. Forgot to say, this is really accurate, tested it with the old cosine method. Was accurate to within .2 of a degree. Then tested with my angle cube it was up to 1.5 degrees out. They do say on a lot of all angle cubes +/- 2 degrees variance.

oSaSnA5.jpg
 
Last edited:
This is perfect for what your saying. You set it to the angle you want then just make sure the stone is in perfect alignment with the arm. Cost me $15 US.

Edit. Forgot to say, this is really accurate, tested it with the old cosine method. Was accurate to within .2 of a degree. Then tested with my angle cube it was up to 1.5 degrees out. They do say on a lot of all angle cubes +/- 2 degrees variance.

oSaSnA5.jpg

Thanks! That looks great. Any pictures showing how it works?
 
Thanks! That looks great. Any pictures showing how it works?
Just want to apologise for the crappy photo. But in the throes of moving and i have packing stuff everywhere. This is what i meant, the Lansky crock stick is in the 20 degrees angle hole, but just placed in the hole was measured as 21.3 degrees. So i just stuck some foam cut off a packing peanut up against the rod and the hole and adjusted it to get a spot on 20 degree angle. You can see the ceramic rod is in alignment with the arm of the digital protractor. If you squint you can see 70 degrees on the protractor, this is 90 degrees when perpendicular minus 20 degrees of the ceramic rod = 70 degrees. Probably sounds a bit complicated but it is not, once you work it out it is so simple and you are guaranteed a perfect angle every time. I have 2 Lansky turnbox's, a Idahone V ceramic sharpener and an A. G. Russell diamond V sharpener. This method just makes them so easy to use, and you are guaranteed of getting the same bevel angle every time. All error is removed, as i said, this is much more accurate than an angle cube, and the angles of the holes drilled in the wooden bases cannot be taken on trust. Hope i have explained my theory in a manner that is understandable, and once again sorry about the crappy photo.

Sgv4fXA.jpg
 
Just want to apologise for the crappy photo. But in the throes of moving and i have packing stuff everywhere. This is what i meant, the Lansky crock stick is in the 20 degrees angle hole, but just placed in the hole was measured as 21.3 degrees. So i just stuck some foam cut off a packing peanut up against the rod and the hole and adjusted it to get a spot on 20 degree angle. You can see the ceramic rod is in alignment with the arm of the digital protractor. If you squint you can see 70 degrees on the protractor, this is 90 degrees when perpendicular minus 20 degrees of the ceramic rod = 70 degrees. Probably sounds a bit complicated but it is not, once you work it out it is so simple and you are guaranteed a perfect angle every time. I have 2 Lansky turnbox's, a Idahone V ceramic sharpener and an A. G. Russell diamond V sharpener. This method just makes them so easy to use, and you are guaranteed of getting the same bevel angle every time. All error is removed, as i said, this is much more accurate than an angle cube, and the angles of the holes drilled in the wooden bases cannot be taken on trust. Hope i have explained my theory in a manner that is understandable, and once again sorry about the crappy photo.

Sgv4fXA.jpg
Quite clear! Thanks.
 
That's great to hear! Will it have sub 15 degrees capability? I have sharpened some of my GEC whittling knives and some of SAKs to 12.5, it would be great to lower angle capabilities for special occasions.
I'm getting close to a final version M murat1983 . Here is a thread with a pic for your reference.

 
A good little trick I use with small stones is to just place a little angle guide between two stones at one end and pinch them to create a V.

As you are holding it keep one stone vertical(can be held against a wall or something fixed) just keep the blade parallel to one like on a sharp maker and away you go.

Use two stones of the same grit makes it easier but it can be done with different stones each side, just need to turn.
I can't believe I didn't notice this post before. This is quite brilliant and I am definitely stealing it. You really only need one stone to make this work. The other side can be any flat object. Anything. You really only need it as a visual reference point. Absolutely beautiful. This sounds like it should be an excellent trick for field sharpening.

Really simple, I use a sharpal angle pyramid which gives you four different angles, 14,17, 20, 25.
I have a couple of these because I could only find them in a two pack. One is orange and has a magnet in the base and the other is black with a rubber grip in the base. If I had the choice, I would've just bought the orange magnetic one. I think it's better. It's more sturdy and it sticks to diamond plates, and the color makes it harder to lose if you drop it. The rubber one feels a little wobbly. I might just dig the rubber out and glue a couple magnets in there.
 
I can't believe I didn't notice this post before. This is quite brilliant and I am definitely stealing it. You really only need one stone to make this work. The other side can be any flat object. Anything. You really only need it as a visual reference point. Absolutely beautiful. This sounds like it should be an excellent trick for field sharpening.


I have a couple of these because I could only find them in a two pack. One is orange and has a magnet in the base and the other is black with a rubber grip in the base. If I had the choice, I would've just bought the orange magnetic one. I think it's better. It's more sturdy and it sticks to diamond plates, and the color makes it harder to lose if you drop it. The rubber one feels a little wobbly. I might just dig the rubber out and glue a couple magnets in there.

It kinda tripped me out when I got it just playing around. I was like, why haven't I seen this before...what. And everything you say is spot on, so simple man.

I also cut the rubber out of the black one as it wobbled. The orange one is cool that it sticks to the dmts... Yeah!

👊
 
It kinda tripped me out when I got it just playing around. I was like, why haven't I seen this before...what.

So I played around with this a little bit... you don't even need the second object. Just use the back of the angle guide as your reference point for lining up the blade. That said, having something up against that side is really helpful because it's easier to visually keep track of. A pen, pencil, or ceramic rod all work well for this. Just use anything as long as it is sturdy and has a straight profile.

You can hold everything together as a bundle in one hand while you sharpen with the other hand. It is like having a handheld version of a Sharpmaker or similar system, and it doesn't rely on needing a flat level surface to put everything down on.

For safety reasons, it's probably a good idea to put a glove on your off-hand. (So you don't cut yourself.)

If you want to keep the angle guide from getting scratched up, you can put a piece of paper between it and your stone. A piece of tape would also work.

Very cool. I'm really glad you shared this. This is awesome. Thank you so much.

👊
bro fist bump!
 
I'm getting close to a final version M murat1983 . Here is a thread with a pic for your reference.

Thanks! I am looking at it.
 
Back
Top