Is there quick and easy to reduce pull on a large folder?

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Oct 24, 2015
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Hey guys. The pull on this thing is ridiculous. My nails are strong but they won't last if I use this knife. Also, it's super sharp and I feel like my grip could slip. The Old Timer 125OT is old but unused, very clean and lube doesn't help. Break-in would likely help, but being like it is, that wouldn't be fun. I feel like it's 90% due to spring strength, not blade pinch or lock rub. Thinning out the lock might help but only slightly. THANKS!

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Can't you just grab the blade and pull it open? There's usually enough room on the blade to do that.
Otherwise, the backspring/rear of the handle can be ground down-thinning the backspring to weaken it.
If you want to remove the backspring pin, the spring can be filed down from inside.
 
Can you put a quik-stud (one of the thumb studs that are attached with a small set screw)? Might make it easier to open. Just a thought.
 
Not quick, but there is an easy way that sometimes works. Open the blade to the tipping point, where a little nudge one way will cause it to close, and a little nudge the other way will cause it to open (or open to the half-way stop). If you can get the blade to stay at that tipping point, put it away someplace very safe and leave it for a few weeks. Then close and open it and see if it is any better. Several knife manufacturers, including CRK, recommend this method. It won't hurt the knife--might hurt you if you forget it's partially open.

I have about half a dozen slipjoints, most of which have too heavy a pull for my thumbnails. This method helped with a Civivi but not with an MKM or a SAK.

I also tried to break in that SAK by carrying and using it for a few weeks. I carried an old SOG multitool to open the SAK with. Did not help at all, and it was too much of a nuisance to continue with.
 
Can't you just grab the blade and pull it open? There's usually enough room on the blade to do that.
Otherwise, the backspring/rear of the handle can be ground down-thinning the backspring to weaken it.
If you want to remove the backspring pin, the spring can be filed down from inside.
This blade is very grip-able. I don't think anyone would attempt opening it with just the thumbnail. I usually pinch with with 2 fingers and the thumb (adding thumb nail for extra leverage and security). Your suggestion did get me thinking though. I added yet another finger to my grip and it helped. It may not actually be easier but it does feel more secure against slippage-and it may take some pressure off of the other fingertips. Thanks.

Not quick, but there is an easy way that sometimes works. Open the blade to the tipping point, where a little nudge one way will cause it to close, and a little nudge the other way will cause it to open (or open to the half-way stop). If you can get the blade to stay at that tipping point, put it away someplace very safe and leave it for a few weeks. Then close and open it and see if it is any better. Several knife manufacturers, including CRK, recommend this method. It won't hurt the knife--might hurt you if you forget it's partially open.

I have about half a dozen slipjoints, most of which have too heavy a pull for my thumbnails. This method helped with a Civivi but not with an MKM or a SAK.

I also tried to break in that SAK by carrying and using it for a few weeks. I carried an old SOG multitool to open the SAK with. Did not help at all, and it was too much of a nuisance to continue with.

Great suggestion. That may actually help. At it's max, that spring is extending at least a full 1/8" past the liners, so you know it's doing lots of work. Probably the reason it's so tight. Maybe I can even think of way extend a little bit more and leave it sit.
 
If that folder's blade happens to be in Schrade's 1095, and perhaps also with a carbon steel (non-stainless) backspring, the pivot's bearing surfaces will wear with time and use, which will eventually loosen up the pull at least a little bit, or a lot if the pivots aren't oiled often enough. I notice that with every folding knife I have with either / both in carbon steel. They ALWAYS wear somewhat by abrasion, even when oiled regularly - the oil will turn dark / black as the steel swarf abrades from the bearing surfaces and collects in the pivots.
 
Nevermind. I see that it's the 125OT with the liner safety. I thought it was the other version with no safety.
 
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