Is thickness of the blade an indication of its strength?

golok

golok

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Oct 20, 2000
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This issue automatically brings to mind the perennial and relevant issue of heat treatment.

I was wondering if there could be other factors as well. It is known by many that some blades are relatively "thin" compared to some Conan-type blades and yet the "thin ones" outchop and outcut those fat cousins of theirs.

What are the main factors that one has to consider? I mean all the signficant factors.
 
The thin blades don't make them weak.A thick bar is really no more than a sharpened crowbar ( to me) I have seen some old antique Bowies that are really thick but they have two and three different edge grinds on them to make them lighter and better functionaly to cut.
The heat treat does have a big major part in this on a thin blade but the main thin that will make one chop better or slice better is the edge geometry.I leave the edge a little thicker and then convex the edge higher up the blade for a tougher camp knife or hard use Bowie,and then I make the edge thinner and a smaller convex edge for a slicer.Most of my Bowies are only 3/16 thick at the max. and The one that Gaucho tested for me and passed through the leg of lamb was 12 inches by 1 1/2 inches by 3/16 thick thus giving a lighter feel with more manouverability.When the blade is real thisk it will bind up in a cut,If you look at the knives that came out of the depression era you will notice that even 5 inch long blades were only 1/8 inch thick ot less sometimes and they would do anything that was asked of them.Also most big folders are still thin blades copared to some of the fixed blades there size.
Bruce
 
I agree with Bruce. Edge geometry and the proper tempering of whatever steel is used defines strength in cutting. In my judgement these are usually more important issues than the actual steel used. Adding to what Bruce says, blade speed is an important element in cutting; lighter blades move faster and tend therefore to cut better. I guess if you're chopping wood a heavy blade may work OK, but an axe will work better. Even then, the best wood chopper I've ever handled, besides an axe or properly sharpened machete, was 9" long and weighed about 16 oz.

Breaking a blade (I'm speaking of breaking a blade in half as opposed to edge damage) is usually a matter of using a knife in a role for which knives are not well suited. If you want a knife to perform as a piton, then certainly thicker is better - especially if I'm hanging off the rope. Otherwise it's just extra weight to haul around.

That's my take on it anyway.
 
I think the main factor to consider is who, is going to do what, with it. I use 1/4 inch ATS because I was young, and dumb in the field, and used knives for what they weren't meant for.
I think the weight of one good knife beats carrying 4 lighter ones that break.
Just my opinion.
 
Let's remember that knives are meant to cut. Crowbars are sold at hardware stores.:)

Stay Safe,

A.T.
 
I have a copy of an old CalKnives Newsletter where this was discussed in depth by a number of well known knifemakers....Bob Loveless included......The bottom line was, you would be a pile of smoldering flesh before a properly ground and heat treated knife made of modern hi carbon tool steel would break in half. Admittedly you might be able to break a bit of the tip off...but thats about all.
Personally I think that if a knifemaker knows what he is doing he will choose the proper steel for the job and the rest just follows.. buy a knife from someone you trust!!! Not Jerry Hossom thats for sure!!! :):):) :p:p:p
(for the uninitiated thats a joke, OK!!??!!) :eek:
 
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