Is this a patina or bad rust

James w

James w

Joined
Aug 6, 2015
Messages
951
I just forced a patina on my mora and it looks great but I'm not sure if part of it is bad rust right above the belly of the knife



Here is the pic ok right above the belly not sure if that's bad or good
 
Seems okay. You can sometimes get very fine surface rust from several things. If it's totally smooth to the touch after cleaning it and wiping it down I wouldn't worry too much
 
It feels a tiny bit rougher is there away to take the bad rust while not affecting the patina
 
James w said:
It feels a tiny bit rougher is there away to take the bad rust while not affecting the patina
Click to expand...

You could rub it with fine steel wool and some WD40. Look for grade 0000 steel wool.

It's probably fine as is too.
 
Rust = corrosion.
Patina = corrosion reclassified.

If you like it, then bobs your uncle.
If not, it's got to go.
 
Rub the suspect area with either some baking soda mixed to a paste with water, OR use a white pencil eraser. If either comes off a little red/brown in color, that's rust. Good news is, the baking soda (at least) does a pretty good job scrubbing the rust off the blade. Rust is very loosely-bound to the steel, so it comes off fairly easily with such a light abrasive scrubbing. Some of the new patina is likely also loosely-bound, and might come off with it, but the more solidly-bound patina should remain.

(Looks like I'm seeing baking soda(?) on the blade already, in your pic. If it's coming off clean & white, you've got little reason to worry. :))


David
 
Use it and it will even out and disappear. Whittling will do the trick.

Zieg
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Rub the suspect area with either some baking soda mixed to a paste with water, OR use a white pencil eraser. If either comes off a little red/brown in color, that's rust. Good news is, the baking soda (at least) does a pretty good job scrubbing the rust off the blade. Rust is very loosely-bound to the steel, so it comes off fairly easily with such a light abrasive scrubbing. Some of the new patina is likely also loosely-bound, and might come off with it, but the more solidly-bound patina should remain.

(Looks like I'm seeing baking soda(?) on the blade already, in your pic. If it's coming off clean & white, you've got little reason to worry. :))


David
Click to expand...

This came in handy for me today as well. I did a hot vinegar patina on two slipjoints, a Case in CV and a Boker in 1095. There were a couple of blades where it took me slightly longer, maybe 30 secs to a minute, to get them from the acid to the sink for flushing and baking soda scrub. In that short amount of time, I was already seeing that same orange/brown color on portions of the blades. It may be a coincidence, but it seems that air exposure may be the culprit. No matter though. A bit more elbow grease with the baking soda took it right off, and left me the grey patina.
 
Trout Hound said:
This came in handy for me today as well. I did a hot vinegar patina on two slipjoints, a Case in CV and a Boker in 1095. There were a couple of blades where it took me slightly longer, maybe 30 secs to a minute, to get them from the acid to the sink for flushing and baking soda scrub. In that short amount of time, I was already seeing that same orange/brown color on portions of the blades. It may be a coincidence, but it seems that air exposure may be the culprit. No matter though. A bit more elbow grease with the baking soda took it right off, and left me the grey patina.
Click to expand...

There's truth in that. As rust is defined, it's oxidation (with exposure to air) of the steel in the presence of water. Where all three come together at the same time, rust happens where they 'meet'. I've patinated blades of mine by dipping them into a hot water & vinegar solution (50/50 mix), and have noticed that at the very top of the liquid mix, where the blade first enters it, a line of red rust will usually form at the level of the liquid's surface. The blade patinates to solid black underneath the surface, but where the air first contacts both the steel and the liquid, some red rust will form at that intersection. I've also used the baking soda to clean that up, when I'm done with the vinegar & water.


David
 
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