Is This Anvil Worth Saving?

Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
69
Just picked up this Vulcan #12 pretty cheap, and it shows. Not really sure where it came from, but the face isn't the worst I've seen. Has a pretty big crown on the top- maybe 1/8" higher in the center than the ends, and common chipping along the edges. The horn could be better :rolleyes:. I suppose it's better than what I had; which was nothing at all. What does everyone think? Opinions?





 
If you can find someone who can use hardfacing rod correctly, or you know how yourself, then absolutely IMO. The horn is a drag, and would limit your ornamentaal blacksmithing quite a bit-but you can make hardie tools to duplicate that small radius (for bladesmithing tasks at least)
My anvil is a very old, 325-340#(ish), thin faced rig and I still haven't fixed the blowouts on the edge, because they're just not in the way. If I can get a welder up here that'll run off my generator this summer may be the time to fix it though.
 
The simplest solution is to clean it up with a flap wheel, grind the edge round, and use the center for basic forging. It will not be a 400# Nimba, but will work.
 
I've been using a Vulcan, similar in weight and condition, for years. You have to pound in a few different areas to find a sweet spot, but I like the different diameter rolled over edges for putting a decorative curves on the end of different size ornamental blacksmithing pieces. Plus you imprint the history of the anvil on the back side of the work that comes off of the well used face. I wouldn't even grind it, the face will start to shine with regular use.

Yeah, I want a big Peddinghaus. But mine was an improvement from the HF anvil I was using before, and it is easier than grinding down that chunk of train rail I have in the basement. I'll keep mine, even when I do upgrade.

James B
www.hotworksgallery.com
 
I don't know one anvil from another but several years ago a co worker brought one in and he wanted it milled flat. No hardfacing. Just milled flat. If it were mine, I'd hardface it and then mill it flat. Where i work we use Stellite for hardfacing.
 
lovely deep old rust colour, can't fake that! i would just get hammering, especially for bladesmithing, it should do fine as is...you only need one small area of small radiused corner and an area about the size of your hammer face that is fairly flat and level to be better equipped than most career smith's throughout history... ^__^
 
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