Is this good leather for a strop?

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Check to see if you have a Tandy leather store around, should get you better prices than your link rc3mil.
Honing/stropping is the same basically.
The leather for slips will be soft to conform to dowels to hone curves etc
You want thick harder shoulder leather to strop with.
Get a 3.5x15 in strip and glue it to a straight smooth piece of 2x4 ,glue some rubberized slipmat to the bottom.
Much easier to learn and work on something like this as well as working on bigger blades.
works well for me
 
I made a few out of some leather i got from a leather shop, it was a think piece of veg tanned leather that was like a blank without a buckle or holes. it was about 20 bucks and i made three double sided strops... its nice and thick and pre cut to about 1 1/2" wide... works very well
 
Reeek said:
I'm not familiar with good strop leather but just a side note, this is the best value loaded strop I have ever used so far and if I ever have to replace the one I have I will buy another. But the one I have is going strong after 18 months of frequent use and I haven't even reloaded it yet. It's cheaper than making your own in many cases:

http://www.knivesplus.com/KPSTROP.HTML#49
http://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html
Click to expand...

Sweet link there... No fuss, already loaded, ready to go. Placed my order!
 
Any quality leather will work for hones/strops.

However, your final stropping should be done on a quality, commercial Russian (the process, not the country) type strop without any kind of abrasive.
 
I got this leather. I decided to build my own strop as apposed to buying a premade one. One side of the leather is smooth and the other side is rough. which side do i glue down? And if i wanted to use compound, which side do i put the compound on?
 
Glue down the rough side. Rubber Cement works well and sets up fast. Gorilla Glue is also good but takes about a day to fully set. Use a backiing that is a few inches longer than the leather to provide a handle. Only a VERY thin uniform layer of compound is required. More is not better. Some of the leather pores should still be visable after the compound is applied. OldDude1
 
Well i got the leather and the wood but im looking for the green compound now. I figured i dont have the cash to dish out for the diamond stuff so im gona give the green one a try. I dont want to buy this online, i want to drive to a store tomorrow and buy the best green compound i can get. People say get the good stuff and its still cheap. Where can i walk into a store and buy this green chronium oxide compound?
 
I wanna know where to get this compound as well. I hope some big chain hardware store carries it so I can get it locally. I need names though, the guys at the stores never know what you're talking about so it's not worth calling.
 
Sears carries it in the wood working tools section. It is not, IMO, the best quality. One caution against the cheap "Grinding Compound" sold in a 4 pack bubble wrap (black, red, gray,and white). The particle size is inconsistant . It is largely binding material with little abrasive. OldDude1
 
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