Is this grinder worth it?

This would be better answered over in Shop Talk. That said, I would just buy your own chassis and motor. I built my own grinder (NWG plans) years ago and used the same 1 HP motor from Harbor Freight, and it's actually pretty good motor, although I'd prefer a 1 1/2 HP now days (not the 1 1/2 hp from HF to be clear, as it's a different type of motor from the 1HP TEFC farm duty one). I set up mine using step pulleys so I could increase of reduce speed, which is what you should get at minimum, if not a VFD. The one in the link is a direct drive so it can't use pulleys and the motor isn't 3 phase so it's not suitable for a VFD. With all the different options these days for grinder chassis at all different prices levels, I would go that route.


Here's a link to the Shop talk sub-forum, which is where are the knife making related questions are asked. This sub-forum is generally show and tell for makers and collectors of custom knives.

https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/shop-talk-bladesmith-questions-and-answers.741/



~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Some older vids of some of the older knives I made)
 
coldsteelburns said:
This would be better answered over in Shop Talk. That said, I would just buy your own chassis and motor. I built my own grinder (NWG plans) years ago and used the same 1 HP motor from Harbor Freight, and it's actually pretty good motor, although I'd prefer a 1 1/2 HP now days (not the 1 1/2 hp from HF to be clear, as it's a different type of motor from the 1HP TEFC farm duty one). I set up mine using step pulleys so I could increase of reduce speed, which is what you should get at minimum, if not a VFD. With all the different options these days for grinder chassis at all different prices levels, I would go that route.


Here's a link to the Shop talk sub-forum, which is where are the knife making related questions are asked. This sub-forum is generally show and tell for makers and collectors of custom knives.

https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/shop-talk-bladesmith-questions-and-answers.741/



~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Some older vids of some of the older knives I made)
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul!!
 
For only 650? I might go for it. I bought a kmg about 12 years ago for 750 and that was with one tooling arm and no motor. I’d at least check it out. I’d want to see how it tracks.
 
I built a grinder with that same motor. It overheats after 5-10 minutes of grinding. I see other reviews complaining of this. I'm hoping to upgrade to a VFD soon.
 
Don’t let him charge you extra for the attachment arm. What’s he going to do with it if he sells the grinder?
 
I run a 1.5 horse motor on pulleys and have for the last 12 years. I’ve replaced it once. I replace the belts a lot though.
 
At closer inspection the belt tensioner system seems a little suspect. Maybe you could throw something together that would work better than lifting the arm while trying to turn the lock nut.
 
Bailey Knives said:
At closer inspection the belt tensioner system seems a little suspect. Maybe you could throw something together that would work better than lifting the arm while trying to turn the lock nut.
Click to expand...
He did say theres a heavy spring for tension, to quick change the belts.
 
Personally, I'd pass hard on that grinder. You can find cheaper versions of what he's basing that design from (DC Knives made the original version), which I don't think is the best design to begin with.
That motor is only single speed, and probably a piece of junk. I'll make an assumption that it's 3600 rpm, which will be too fast for any higher grits/finish work.

There are other chassis in the $600ish range, and you can set up with variable speed for about $150 to $300 depending on what motor you go with ($50 to $150 used motor, $60 to $100 for a chinese vfd, and $40 to $50 for misc. wire, plugs, switches, etc...)
 
Likewise I would pass as well. $475 gets you a mod e from northridge probably the best Ive seen even twice the price, add a motor and vfd and your still under $800
 
Bailey Knives said:
At closer inspection the belt tensioner system seems a little suspect. Maybe you could throw something together that would work better than lifting the arm while trying to turn the lock nut.
Click to expand...
So you would sugges
Tin.Man said:
Likewise I would pass as well. $475 gets you a mod e from northridge probably the best Ive seen even twice the price, add a motor and vfd and your still under $800
Click to expand...
Ill check them out!!
 
Tin.Man said:
Likewise I would pass as well. $475 gets you a mod e from northridge probably the best Ive seen even twice the price, add a motor and vfd and your still under $800
Click to expand...
Is the Mod E pretty solid? It looks thin compared to the mod 2, wish I was allowing myself spend that much lol!!
 
Bailey Knives said:
At closer inspection the belt tensioner system seems a little suspect. Maybe you could throw something together that would work better than lifting the arm while trying to turn the lock nut.
Click to expand...
There's a spring in the tube pushing the arm up. I built the dc knives grinder frame...didn't cost much and it works pretty good. Took a bit of fooling around to get everything lined up at first.
I got my motor off of craigs for under $100 and a second hand vfd $90 I think. You might ask him his price for the frame without the motor and then do what I did off craigs.
 
Mattz1983 said:
Is the Mod E pretty solid? It looks thin compared to the mod 2, wish I was allowing myself spend that much lol!!
Click to expand...
It's very solid. .25 thick laser cut steel.

You couldn't get it to flex if you tried.

I have a mod 2 and a mod e. For twice the money of a mod e I still havent found better
 
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