Is this old Wilton 4103 suitable for grinding?

Bladegunner

Bladegunner

Joined
Jul 28, 2016
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Newbie getting into knife making ran across this old Wilton for sale asking price is high at $800 I would make a offer considerably lower. I guess my question is will this be suitable for grinding or save my money for a nice rig?

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That was my first grinder. They're not precisely smooth, but they're bulletproof. They're also fast, so learning to grind on it isn't as easy as a slower machine might be. It would be easy to swap the motor if you ever decide to make it variable speed (I did the second or third year I had it), and if you don't want to spend the long dollar immediately TruGrit has 'slow-down' replacement drive wheel made by Hardcore that will knock it down by 25% or so.

$800 is a little steep. Still, it's a good machine.
 
At one time, they were the go-to knife maker grinder, and they last. A new one will run around 2K +without the stand. They came with a 8" contact wheel, also.
 
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If it has the large contact wheel it is a super deal. The roller stand is something like $200. Even if it is only what is shown, I would recommend getting it. I would offer $700 and see what they say.
For $300-500 additional, the motor can be easily changed to 3Ph/VFD which will make it a superb variable speed grinder.
That one has the high speed drive wheel, so it will run fast. For an experienced smith, that isn't a huge problem, but it is too fast for most beginners. f you don't convert to VFD, I would look at changing the drive wheel to a smaller one. IIRC, it only costs around $70.

The grinding shields catch an enormous amount of the grit and stuff thrown from the belts, and adding a 2" dust collection port at the back corner (and a spark trap) will make your shop stay much cleaner. You can run it off a shop vac. An Oneida metal Dust Deputy works great as the spark tral and dust separator.

You can make other grinding arms for things like small wheels and specialty platens.

A few mods can help make it simpler to use:
Switch the grinding rest mounting/attachment bolt to a star wheel.
Make some sort of clamp or latch to lock the base to the front of a workbench when using it. This will keep it stable and steady in hogging.
 
what size belt? a basic new 2x72 with variable speed will start at $1100. if you have 240 in your shop, a 1 1/2 hp motor and VFD start at $250. I would offer $500 and no go higher than $700
 
If you want it, I'd find a way to get it. I have an older one like your's, in addition to my Bader. The older models, like shown here, are much better than the Chinese/Tiwanese/etc square wheels marketed by Jet now.

Like other's have said, its fast, damn fast. I got a slow down wheel for $100+ and it really helped. After 23 years I have rebuilt it to be a variable speed grinder and it's my #1 grinder now....
 
It's a good style grinder that works with dust collection.

A new one is $2,200

That's built heavier than new.

I'd say $800 is a really good value.
 
Looks like I can get it for $700.00 I have a drill press, a portaband in a SWAG table and a Kalamazoo 1" x 42" belt sander I use for shaping scales. Do I need a forge or can I start with just basic stock removal methods? Anything else that is mandatory for a not even beginning knife maker?
 
Apart from a buffer I'd say you're pretty well set.

Forging is just a different techniques, but not something you ever need. If you take a look at knives by Buster Warenski and Lloyd Hale, you'd be hard pressed to call stock removal basic either.

Personally I'd recommend getting good at stock removal first. You need to be able to grind and finish blades either way, and may as well eliminate half a shop and piles more learning at the beginning
 
It already has a tool rest. If you look at the picture there is a tool rest beside the grinder. I got a square wheel grinder back in the very early 1980's. I still use it. I would recommend getting a 8" or 10" contact wheel and you will be set to start making knives.
 
Got the square wheel home today, came with 3 or 4 belts and a nice dead man switch. Going to my buddies fab shop on Saturday to rummage thru his scrap pile for some flat stock. Just mild steel but should be good to practice my grinding on. I don't think mild structural steel will harden will it?
 
Bladegunner said:
Got the square wheel home today, came with 3 or 4 belts and a nice dead man switch. Going to my buddies fab shop on Saturday to rummage thru his scrap pile for some flat stock. Just mild steel but should be good to practice my grinding on. I don't think mild structural steel will harden will it?
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No, but 1084, 1080, 1075 will. It's inexpensive and makes a great blade!
Alpha knife supply and New Jersey Steel Baron have it. Mild steel is fine to start with for practice.
 
While that grinder is still running at light speed, try some 400 grit belts for beveling as a "slow down" technique
 
To add a dust collector port, use a short 2" muffler pipe fitting from the auto parts store ( there are several adapter shapes - get one that will fit your dust vac hose). Place it on the back corner of the bottom of the belt cover guard ( pointing down). Mark the place and cut and file out the hole until the tube can be just slid in a little. Sand off the paint there and weld it in place ( four to eight good tack welds will do fine). Slip/clamp the vac hose on and you will collect a lot of the dust and sparks. A simple spark bong, or a funnel type collector that connects to the vac, will catch the rest. Install a metal type Dust Deputy in the hose line as close to the grinder as possible ... preferably directly under the grinder.
 
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